Dark Angel Company Master

[Beaver2206]

Here we have a Dark Angel Company Master from the Citadel Finecast series. 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a1.jpg

The figure comes with two heads; a crested, masked version and ‘ard-man unmasked head.  I shall attempt to paint both, mounting the heads on metal rods to allow me to swap them around as I please.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a2.jpg

 

Initial impressions of the miniature are balanced.  The detail is crisp and should be a pleasure to paint.  I am especially looking forward to detailing the knee pads and company flag and I like the option of two heads.  There are few casting bubbles; however, this leads me to some negative points.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a3.jpg

 

Despite the resin medium, seams are still visible in areas you would find them on the moulded plastic equivalent.  This would not have been hard to fix before making the master cast and save a lot of time for the modeller.  As stated, there are relatively few bubbles (despite
the large cast frame and the number of items fixed to the same sprew), though a ‘clanger’ was spotted on the underside of the backpack.  Following advice, I have contacted GW via email informing them of the defect.  I shall keep you posted as to their response…

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a4.jpg

 

I am really looking forward to painting this figure, though admit there will be a slight delay in getting started whilst I finish the Rhino and await GW response to the defective part.

I do not intend to deviate much from the box art on this project.  I plan to keep it nice and simple and hopefully produce a presentable, tidy finish.

I bow down to some of the abilities present on this forum, so please take this blog in context (my first stand-alone figure in 10 years… and that was with a dwarfs, erghhh!)
 

Thanks

 

Stuart

 

 

 

[Chronotonic]

wow...that model while it has its problems actually is a pretty cool model...

[Winged.CAV]

GW will want you to call them. I had an issue with a speeder that didn't want to go right, I emailed them and they told me to call them. The number is 1-800-394-4263. Have that sprue with you. In my case they mailed me a new sprue which as you may know, is the who speeder. Hope it helps.

[Beaver2206]

Minor gaps and bubbles were filled with two-part putty before the figure was primed with Citadel Skull White Primer.  I have used this shade rather than Chaos Black as I am more comfortable working on a light base.  Plus the white primer gives a nice even base for the cape which would be difficult to achieve with a brush.  I may also apply this technique for the red banner flag, that being in red.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a5.jpg

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a6.jpg

 

The two heads are also primed and will be painted separately.  You will notice that they, along with the figure have been mounted onto brass rods. For the figure, this is for handling and to protect the paintwork from mucky fingers.  For the heads, the rods serve another  purpose, once finished, the rods will be shortened and fitted into a drilled hole on the figure, allowing me to swap heads easily.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a7.jpg

The red emblem on the cape has been block painted before being left to dry ready for edging to follow.  Enamels are being used for the red to allow me to easily clean up and over-painting onto the white without removing the white underneath.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a8.jpg

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/0a9.jpg

 

Going to start on the body armour at the weekend, which will be interesting…

 

This is a lovely looking figure, just hope I can do it justice.

 

Stuart

[Beaver2206]

To break up the painting of the figure, I am constructing a small display base.  This will primarily feature an old gnarly tree made from wire.  This will be my third tree, so this will be great practice whatever the outcome. 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a10.jpg

 

The core of the tree is made from a handful of wire strips cut to the same length.  You will need 30 plus, depending on the height and girth of the tree you want.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a11.jpg

 

The core is then bound with thinner wire (green wire) up to the crotch of the tree where the core is divided in half and winding continues
along the branch.  Start the trunk of the tree around an inch from the bottom of the core.

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a12.jpg

 

This step is then repeated for the other half of the core (yellow wire).

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a13.jpg

The third layer (purple wire) is a looser wind and can be repeated several times to add body to the branches. 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a14.jpg

 

Once you have enough branches, form the tree into an approximate shape and start to trim the braches to various lengths.  The inch the you left at the bottom of the trunk can now be wound and made into the roots.

The next stage will be to submerge it in emulsion paint to cover all of the winds and give the tree a smoother texture. 

 

This is all just a dry fit at the moment, the aim is to make some roots that will hang down under the overhang of the groundwork. 

 

I will post some updates of the figure soon.
 

Thanks

 

Stuart

 

[Beaver2206]

Nice quick update on this figure.  Most of the base Caliban Green has gone on and parts have been highlighted. 

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a15.jpg

 

To break the process up, I have also started to detail sections such as the chest iconography and skulls.

 

I am currently working on the highlights of Warpstone Green and extreme highlights of Warpstone and Flash git yellow.

 

I am finding the figure work much harder than the Domanocles Rhino, which included very little brush painting.  Feels good to get away from the comfort zone every now and again.

 

thanks

 

Stuart

[jeremy1391]

Wow that is looking amazing bud!

[Vadskær]

Great work as always Stuart! I think it is very inspirational to follow your blogs and your progress. It shows a lot of spirit to just jump into a new medium (Warhammer 40K) and I think you'll evolve a lot as a painter and modeler through this.

 

I'll keep tuned in for more updates - keep it up :-)

[Beaver2206]

Thanks Vadskaer, I think you're right and there in is the reason I love doing this.  Look back on pieces you did a year ago.  If you recoil at some of it, GOOD, that's evidence in your very hand that you've improved.  It's not often you get that of evidence of improvement with a hobby and I'm glad of it. 

 

This brings me to my next update, I have mainly been working on the finer details such as the scrolls and bronze work.  My faithful enamels let me down here, so I turned to Citadel to step up to the challenge.  After a couple of thin coats of Warplock Bronze, I have highlighted the metalwork with Sycorax Bronze.  These paints coat much better and will definately be employed in future historical builds.

 

The kneepad has been base coated, though nothing more.  I achieved the lines by masking each section off with Tamiya 6mm masking tape.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a16.jpg

 

The cape has recieved its first oil wash of raw sienna with a touch of vandyke brown to darken the yellow tone.  Raised sections such as on the shoulder pads have had the oil wash 'mopped up' to make them lighter.  I would say another three or four more thin washes should do, then I can touch up the red detailing.

 

Thanks for stopping by!

 

Stuart

[death given form]

Very nicely done. I clicked on this thread not realizing it was one of yours. It's really cool to see you doing a single model, as your Damocles was amazing. I'm wondering, what sort of blending do you use for painting armor? It's very crisp and clean, and the color transition is very smooth. How many layers in total go into one panel of armor?

[Razblood]

Very crisp work :)

 

I balked a bit when you said you were using enamels, but they seem to work well for you.

 

For reference though I feel I should point out that Mephiston Red covers Black extremely well, should you ever decide to do something like this over a Black undercoat ;)

[Beaver2206]

Thanks, I would say with washes, there is around 9 layers on each panel.  Primer, three thin coats of Caliban, three or more thin coats of warpstone for highlights, washes and extreme highlighting with warpstone and flashgit yellow mix.

 

I have only used enamel for the red areas and oil washes, everything else is Citadel paint.  I hold no loyalty at all for paint mediums, I simply use whatever is right for the job.  Citadel paints are so easy to work with, really 'pick up and play', so I like them for this sort of model.

 

Another quick update.  Mainly on the cape, which has received a couple more oil washes of Vandyke Brown followed by pin washes of a more concentrated wash.

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a17.jpg

 

I have just started the heads, so will post shots of those soon.

 

Thanks

 

Stuart

[Brother Immolator]

Just seen this thread. I am following this since it will be the first time Ill be seeing this mini without the helmet.

I have a metal version myself and I am really proud of that model (my interpentation of him can be found in the gallery)

 

You are up to a great start there: A suggestion on the backpack: Its a rather regular backpack, so if you want you can replace it and drill the pole on one of the tac squads. Its a shame to have a miscast one on such a great model, though I can see a couple more minor irregularities.

[Beaver2206]

Thanks Immolator, I was keen to do the unmasked head as I haven't painted any flesh in a long time and am a little out of practice.  Unfortunately, I have reverted back to my enamels for this as I haven't the right Ctadel paints for the job (they're not cheap you know!).

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a19.jpg

 

The eyes are blue with a black iris.  My technique (this is where I need to get practicing) is to use a cocktail stick splinter.  I basically break lots of cocktail sticks in half until I achieve a splinter just right for the job. 

 

I have almost finished the base green of the helmet also:

 

http://historymill.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/0a18.jpg

 

hopefully the extreme highlighting will bring the head to live a little more, I also need to add reflection to the red eyes.

 

More updates soon (depending how long I can keep off of Minecraft!)

 

Stuart

[Cain Tiberius Kondrad]

Awesome paint job bud! Keep it coming :tu:

 

CTK

[[TA]Typher]

He's looking awesome.. I'm not crazy about the tree though.

[Kierdale]

Outstanding work!

Your green is beautiful.

[Brother Immolator]

If only I had stable hands, his eyes are perfect!

Though It seems the helmet suits the model better. Moar coolness factor.