Balthamal Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 Having just played a tournament that featured no less than 6 of these beauties I can tell you not only are they fantastic models but on the table top they're so effective it borders on unfairness forcing someone to face them down. I can't comment on the majority of weapon options since I only saw the Kheres in action but I've got one with TLLC myself and it's never let me down. Make sure you pack a cyclone though, they do make a difference Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted February 27, 2013 Share Posted February 27, 2013 All it takes to connect each arm is a pair of 0.5mm x 5mm neodymium magnets. The shoulder joint (red arrow) is indented and the arm joint (blue arrow) fits inside. As you can see in the second photo the extra 1mm thickness isn't visible. I swear they designed it with this in mind! http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb440/Cactus-/7751b1c8-f3a0-40f7-a363-1efb6dc7e5c2_zpsc01a1e75.jpg http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb440/Cactus-/Contemptor_04.jpg For the optional cyclone missile launcher I drilled a small hole in both the launcher and the top of the hull and inserted a tiny cylindrical magnet (0.5mm x 1mm, I think) into each one. I did same with one of the iron halos from the generic terminator kit because I thought I'd need to cover the 'scar' when not using the cyclone. As it happens the magnet is so small and the hull so black that you can barely see it anyway! The iron halo still looks cool though, and that's what counts. http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb440/Cactus-/20130227_210620_zpsea47c31c.jpg http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb440/Cactus-/20130227_210728_zps652e0b95.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted February 27, 2013 Author Share Posted February 27, 2013 Cool, thanks! I hope I have the right magnets though X-X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 sorry for double post, but how difficult is it to build in general? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I would say the contemptor is not very difficult to build, unless you want to get clever with posing the legs. I found it easier than a land raider or land speeder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbenner Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 The main problem I think you might find is that it's resin and not plastic. Resin has different rules and is far less forgiving. I would just take the cleanup slow until you know exactly how the material should be reacting. I would be prepared for some bubble touch ups. If a piece has badly obscured detail, let them know and they will usually replace the piece. Nothing on the Contemptor will be bad, but I would be prepared to do some hot water bending for Auto Cannons and Las Cannons. Mine just got here yesterday and I'm done cleaning two bodies, and all the Auto Cannons. A couple of those need hot water bent yet. The Assault Cannons are in process, about half done, and then Las Cannons are next. I find that I do better with cleanup on resin with a file unless the area is too small, then I resort to the Hobby Knife. Resin is softer than plastic, so be extra careful when you scrape mold lines off, as you have to use the sharp edge at a pretty tight angle, and can easily slice more or deeper than you wanted. Best, Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facmanpob Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Resin is softer than plastic, so be extra careful when you scrape mold lines off, as you have to use the sharp edge at a pretty tight angle, and can easily slice more or deeper than you wanted. Best, Paul ...or you might do what I did a couple of weeks ago working on a Scibor model.......slip with the hobby knife and send it straight into the side of your finger. The cut even penetrated 2mm into the side of the nail it went so deep......so yes, be careful! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 The main problem I think you might find is that it's resin and not plastic. Resin has different rules and is far less forgiving. I would just take the cleanup slow until you know exactly how the material should be reacting. I would be prepared for some bubble touch ups. If a piece has badly obscured detail, let them know and they will usually replace the piece. Nothing on the Contemptor will be bad, but I would be prepared to do some hot water bending for Auto Cannons and Las Cannons. Mine just got here yesterday and I'm done cleaning two bodies, and all the Auto Cannons. A couple of those need hot water bent yet. The Assault Cannons are in process, about half done, and then Las Cannons are next. I find that I do better with cleanup on resin with a file unless the area is too small, then I resort to the Hobby Knife. Resin is softer than plastic, so be extra careful when you scrape mold lines off, as you have to use the sharp edge at a pretty tight angle, and can easily slice more or deeper than you wanted. Best, Paul Oh, alright! thanks for the heads up! yea, I need to work on model cleaning some more X-X Resin is softer than plastic, so be extra careful when you scrape mold lines off, as you have to use the sharp edge at a pretty tight angle, and can easily slice more or deeper than you wanted. Best, Paul ...or you might do what I did a couple of weeks ago working on a Scibor model.......slip with the hobby knife and send it straight into the side of your finger. The cut even penetrated 2mm into the side of the nail it went so deep......so yes, be careful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facmanpob Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Resin is softer than plastic, so be extra careful when you scrape mold lines off, as you have to use the sharp edge at a pretty tight angle, and can easily slice more or deeper than you wanted. Best, Paul ...or you might do what I did a couple of weeks ago working on a Scibor model.......slip with the hobby knife and send it straight into the side of your finger. The cut even penetrated 2mm into the side of the nail it went so deep......so yes, be careful! It's OK now though. Once I'd staunched the flow of blood my daughter put one of her plasters (Band Aids for our cousins across the pond) on it. And as we all know, pink plasters with hearts on heal things faster than normal adult ones! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks goodness I have the mold line remover! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facmanpob Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 Thanks goodness I have the mold line remover! I did look into that a while ago, but decided I didn't need it. Maybe its time for a rethink ........ ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pbenner Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 What is this mold line remover? Some kind of chemical? If it's designed for Plastic, I wouldn't touch resin with it. Might be bad. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted February 28, 2013 Author Share Posted February 28, 2013 http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat470006a&prodId=prod1380022a this thing :P also, I might add that I am looking at some grey knights... the new Daemons look scary O~O Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elphilo Posted February 28, 2013 Share Posted February 28, 2013 I use this as my mold line remover. It works really well, though my fingers can attest that they can be just as easily cut from that as a hobby knife Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 alright, i got told on Dakka that a hyperios launcher is a good replacement for a devastator team. think that is true? I am kimda dooling over the 8 TL krak missile shots with full ballistic skill and T6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Putting the assualt cannon together is a bit of a pain.. Cactus had problems (above), Spikeyjames had problems and I had problems... Problems is probibly a bit strong but none of us got the barrels in straight.. http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/fred40k2002/Dark%20Angels/DSCN9629.jpg Just test fit it really well before superglue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cactus Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 I resemble that remark! I got the barrels in straight, but failed to adequately remove the mould lines. Lines that don't follow the line of the barrels, giving them a bit of a corkscrew effect. It is a bit fiddly though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 okay, thanks for the tips. so should I get the hyperios? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted March 4, 2013 Share Posted March 4, 2013 Hey... Spiky had the same problem and if a maester has the problem, I dont feel as bad about it.... I'd stick with a Mortis, An autocannon or an Assault cannon will get off far more shots than the Hyperios but the rule of cool always wins. What do you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger9gamer Posted March 4, 2013 Author Share Posted March 4, 2013 well, the hyperios might have a smaller foot print, may be easier to hide, is cheaper, and can put out a ridiculus amount of TL krak missiles... and I heard 4 is the maximum squad size (sorry for the head banging sprite earlier, i thought you didn't answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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