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How do you use washes properly


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I just use Windex in place of water, so if a technique calls for 2:1, water:paint, I'd use 2:1, Windex:paint. It works well. I find that with Vallejo game colour, I can use more water without ruining the mix than I can with Citadel paints, so I don't bother with the Windex for those. Just in case you get any. (They are way better value though)

Ahhh, the big question. In reality, can't be answered, two pots of the same type pf paint bought on the same day may have different consistency, and therefore would need different amounts of thinning.. Therefore, the question is 'what consistency of paint do I require?' and I'd say a bit thinner than milk. Hard to describe, but it should flow from your brush easily and smoothly when you drag a bit on some paper, and if you drag a bit up the side of your plate/palette/whatever you use, it should cling to the side a little, and the liquid that is clinging to the side should have a transparency to it. Not a great deal of transparency, not like a 'coloured water' kind of thing, just thin enough to be able to go on in smooth layers. I use a relatively high ratio of water to paint, maybe 4 or 5:1. My DA test model was done using this kind of technique/ratio, albeit with green, not white, same theory applies though. Obsidian painting on youtube has a lot of videos where he uses layering to apply highlights, might be able to explain it better than me. smile.png

<Edit> Link to my test mini added for clarity : http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/264992-skittles-random-wip-log/?do=findComment&comment=3229242

<2nd edit> Here's a handy link : http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial1.pdf

Thanks for the suggestions. I guess what I have to do is take it way way slower than I thought I was. The upsetting part is, I tested everything on an old model, and the test looked amazing.... Now I have a few marines who will not look the same

I use drakenhoff nightshade for my whites as well.  I do the chest eagles on my BA, the decorative wings on the shoulder pads, and the wings on my Sanguinary Guard.  The white does come out blue, but the lighter of the blue tints I just highlight it in white, leaving the darker blue hidden.  I do the same process to the white helmets of my Sanguinary Priests, but try to get it just in the recesses so I don't have to repaint the entire helmet.

Since you're doing a bigger surface area and not really wanting to tint your legs blue, I would suggest just doing the crevices, joints, recesses around the knee pads, feet, etc...  You will probably have a little bit of blue wash to touch up on the white, but I think it would be less work than having to re apply white to the entire legs.

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y404/Stevezi/DSCF2736_zpsa134a466.jpg

Thats over the chest eagles, and decorative wings.


Now, I wash my entire models with two coats of agrax earthshade to tone down the red.  I don't want my BA to have a bright red look, so, I wash the whole model twice, and highlight in evil sunz scarlet.  I don't re-layer my red on top of that, because its my choice, I like the darker, dirtier look.

So, by washing the lower half of your model, which you want to keep purely white, the process is different.  You want to still see the details and the breaks in armour, but not tint the entire lower half.

I just started using oil paints thinned with white spirits on glossed varnished models.  Super amazingly easy stuff and the wash just leaps into those nooks and crannies.  And it doesn't dry fast at all, so it's easy to clean up, and you don't have to rush like you do with washes to avoid ugly accidental staining with rings and such.

I used these two vids as a guide. You will be surprised how easy this is once you give it a go. Just remember you should choose an appropriate color oil paint for the shading. On pure white, it will probably be best to go with a blue-black or blue-gray, or maybe a very dark brown if it matches the base.
 

 

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