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Urban Barricades from Forge World resin


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After buying an enclosed Medusa last year I was left with (in addition to a very cool piece of mobile artillery) several of those huge chunks of FW resin that come attached to kit components, and thought that they'd make nice barriers/barricades.

Hence this tutorial.

The end result:

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I initially just had a play around with the pieces (after thoroughly washing them and cleaning up their surfaces a little: not too much as I wanted them to look like rough, made-in-an-emergency cheaply barricades) and tried carving some damage into them. Some had `boards` seemingly protruding from them and I decided these parts would look perfect painted up as wood sticking up from the concrete blocks. These sections had some lines scored into them to give the impression of wood grain.

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Damage

For example, a particularly wide crater:

push the point of a modelling knife into the block at an angle and the rotate it, carving out the resin in a spiral.

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Here is that `crater` afterwards. I then cut a line outwards from the center of the crater, and then angled my blade ever so slightly and cut again to take out a thin sliver of resin.

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Repeating that, but making sure not to have the cracks uniform (i.e. cut at different lengths and angles), have several shooting out from the center.

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You could make the damage seem as if it came from a certain angle by concentrating the cracks on one side, or having them longer to one side and shorter on the other.

I then added some cracks joining up these radial ones, as if the concrete further from the center had been cracked by the blast.

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In addition to using a modelling knife I also experimented with a drill:

two holes here from simply drilling directly into the resin, and the one on the right was drilled directly in and then, while still rotating the drill (and bear in mind I only use a GW pin vice) I angled it slightly. The resin is relatively soft but be careful not to break your drill bit or gouge too deeply.

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Again, the bare holes are enhanced by radial cracks done with a modelling knife.

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Those on the left do look a little plain but after painting look better.

Bases

I measured the longest block I had and, judging by the number of blocks of different sizes I had, figured I could get six 3"x1.5" pieces. I cut some thick cardboard, and after a couple of dry-runs deciding what would go where:

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...painted the bases with PVA glue and covered them with sand. I was initially going to glue the resin blocks to the baseboards first but then realised that putting them on afterwards would help to make them look like non-permanent features.

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I then used a hot glue gun to glue the resin blocks to the bases once they had dried.

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You'll also noticed some GW sprue sections in there too: simply a few lengths cut to size, their ends mangled with some plyers (a bit of chewing here and there too) with short sections of bent paper clip fitted into drilled holes at the ends. While the resin blocks are going to be painted up as concrete barricades, these pieces of sprue will be scavenged lengths of steel-reinforced concrete used to shore-up the barricades (and painted a different tone to reflect this).

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Next up: Painting.

To be completed this weekend.

Thanks, Chaeron and Shiodome (named after the Tokyo location?). I'm sure everyone who buys from FW has the idea. I hope this thread inspires some to actually get it done! msn-wink.gif

Painting

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I sprayed all the pieces with black acrylic spray (cheap stuff from the hundred-yen store. Gloss, but that didn't matter) to basecoat them and help seal the sand on. It also gets in all the cracks so if you miss anything later you can call it shadow. msn-wink.gif

I then painted the ground areas with a dark grey (I mix my own greys, but looking at a colour chart I think the colour is similar to Mechanicus Standard Grey). I painted the sprues with the same colour, though they were later given different washes so the final colours were different.

The FW blocks were painted a lighter grey (akin to Dawnstone in the new range). The above photo shows the first, thin coat on one of the blocks.

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And there with the second coat on.

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And above: the top piece had it's third coat of light grey, then all (ground, sprues and FW blocks) were given a heavy drybrushing with Longbeard Grey (which shows up a little on the two pieces of cork concrete debris on the lower piece). The top piece has also been given a wash with Nuln Oil shade.

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Two pieces with the grey areas finished. The sprue-pieces were given a Drakenhof Nightshade wash rather than a black wash, as I like the tone it gives them (thanks to a tutorial I found here on the B&C by -if I remember correctly- Pingo). I intend to do the same for my buildings.

The protruding steel from the sprues was painted Mithril Silver (on reflection a darker tone might be better) and then washed heavily twice with Gryphonne Sepia (not yet done in the above image).

The wood sections were then painted a dark brown, drybrushed with a lighter one and then washed with Agrax Earthshade.

Decorating/Detailing

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Some posters which can be downloaded at:

http://www.warseer.com/forums/showthread.php?138549-Imperial-Propaganda-Posters-and-Signs

Outstanding stuff that just begs you to make some terrain to use them on (after being scrunched up and cut a bit).

As you can see in the above image, everything's still rather clean. This is where weathering powders come in. My favourite being:

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I gave the ground areas a light brushing of Light Sand after going over everything with Mud. That dirtied the posters up nicely.

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And a side-on shot of the right hand piece:

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Added a small Khorne icon drawn in blood (Tamiya Clear Red mixed with Nuln Oil).

And that's it.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

You know when you see an idea that's so obvious and awesome that you just can't believe you didn't think of it yourself?

Well, that just happened to me.laugh.png

This is an ingenious, simple and fantastically executed idea. First-rate stuff!biggrin.png

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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