Vivster Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 How do you guys paint red with the new GW paints and what primer do you use. Mind you I dont have a primer but am willing to use Vallejo paints if they are good. Any chance of pictures. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black_Sky Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Skull White undercoat. Blood Red drybrush. Baal Red wash. Call it a day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corlinjewell Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 How red do you want it? I use a darker red. I start with black primer, use khorne red, drybrush with Wazdakka red, and then use Baal Red as the wash (though the wash might be the old one). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndigoJack Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 khorne red over black primer, pin wash with nuln oil, highlight with mephiston red, extreme highlight with orange (can't remember the name off-hand.) This achieves a very dark red. One thing to remember, is that even the GW red base paints need several coats for good coverage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiros14 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 Everyone is different, personally, I use the method given by GW when the new paints came out. Abbadon Black Primer Mephiston Red Basecoat Evil Suns Red Overcoat Baal Red Wash Wild Rider Red edge Highlights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianj253 Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 I use the following Black primer Mephiston red Baal red Wash Evil suns 1st edge highlight wild rider red 2nd edge highlight with troll slayer orange Glaze with Bloodletter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appiah4 Posted April 8, 2013 Share Posted April 8, 2013 I don't use GW colors, but I use their (old) washes. What I do is; Prime a Neutral grey or white (when I prime white I shade an extra layer - still comes out a bit lighter.) Three light coats of Lipstick Red (FolkArt Acrylics) 1 coat of Ogryn Flesh wash (Citadel) 1 coat of Blood Red wash (Citadel) (I wash a 2nd time with this if I primed white Highlight with Lipstick Red (FolkArt Acrylics) Highlight with Red Light (FolkArt Acrylics) Highlight with Pure Orange (FolkArt Acrylics) Here's the result: Grey Primer: http://image.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_8363/gallery_60983_8363_64703.jpg White Primer: http://image.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_8363/gallery_60983_8363_8689.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boomkapow Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 What about flat armor plating, such as on a dreadnought? Flat blood red with orange corner highlights? Or more complicated, like shading blood red over khornate red? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
appiah4 Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 What about flat armor plating, such as on a dreadnought? Flat blood red with orange corner highlights? Or more complicated, like shading blood red over khornate red? I use the exact same method as above, except I do the basecoat with a red aerosol spray: http://image.bolterandchainsword.com/uploads/gallery/album_8363/gallery_60983_8363_132145.jpg I painted this dread (and my second) without priming first and found that it can lead to easier chipping, despite varnishing. For later vehicles I'll first base grey then spray red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Theredknight Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 I personally use Chaos black undercoat Mephiston red base Quick layer of evil suns Caraboo crimson or whatever Do the main areas evil suns again If I'm feeling arty a quick tiny highlight with trollslayer orange. Most can be sprayed (meph red, 1st evil sunz and ink if you really want) so if youv a horde to do, it's pretty time effective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASSASSINAWOKEN Posted April 11, 2013 Share Posted April 11, 2013 Ask yourself how committed are you to following a paint color recipe? It is true everyone has their own color preference. What is you color preference? Do you want a brighter red starting with white primer, something in the middle with grey primer, or a darker red starting with a black primer. Furthermore how many layers to you really want to paint to achieve the color red. This is important in the long run. The more layers it takes to get red may produce great miniatures, but in the long run all the painting and cost is rather daunting and you might stall or quit. Here is a what I did to go about choosing materials for the color red. A long time ago in a time GW prices were not out of control, GW made Blood Red spray paint, red ink, and chestnut ink. I would prime my models with white spray paint, then apply Blood Red spray paint, and then apply a generous mix of red and chestnut inks. The GW stopped selling them and I was stuck for almost 10 years easy. Then I discovered Army Painter so I tested their spray paint against the old GW Blood Red spray paint. Yes I still have a working can. Army Painter spray paints are good as they remove the need for a primer and they offer Pure Red (Light) and Dragon Red (Dark), I use Pure Red. Plus they offer a pure red dropper bottle paint which is tremendously helpful when cleaning up models from paint mistakes. http://ststh.blogspot.com/2012/10/replacing-citadel-blood-red-spray-paint.html Then I discovered Liquitex inks which are better than GW inks and applied them to my LRC. http://ststh.blogspot.com/2013/01/land-raider-wip-part-4.html This is a WIP shot of the LRC showing how nice the ink enhances the red. I stress the enhance as it is designed to stain the red color. http://ststh.blogspot.com/2013/03/land-raider-crusader-finished.html Some say me red is bright, but when the models are in pictures they stand out easily showing a Blood Angel model is causing all sorts of trouble. Plus the LRC's first game post painting did get damaged at all. Here is a Devastator squad I am currently working on as well. http://ststh.blogspot.com/2013/04/progress-update-on-devastator-squad.html Army Painter provides the blue paint I used and Liquitex makes a blue ink as well. Believe it or not the older GW How to Paint Miniatures actually refers to using red an chestnut ink mixed on Blood Red paint when painting Blood Angels. I got the tip elsewhere though prior to reading it. I hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RS1169 Posted April 16, 2013 Share Posted April 16, 2013 check out warbosstae on youtube as he has a good how to for painting a blood angels assault marine sergeant. I follow his method by: priming black basecoat khorne red go over with mephiston red wash with carroburg crimson paint over lighted spots with mephiston red again highlight with wazdakka red edge highlight with evil suns scarlet repeat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cerberus_ Posted April 30, 2013 Share Posted April 30, 2013 I haven't painted a lot yet, but I've found this combo works really well, Prime army painter red (white or grey will work too) Base mephiston red Wash carroburg crimson retouch with mephiston red layer evil sunz scarlett Layer a thin coat (too much will come out orangish) of wild rider red Glaze Bloodletter (you can apply multiple coats if desired) Edge highlighting- haven't got this exactly down yet, but pure wild rider red (its brighter than the glazed over wild rider done earlier) (Very) Fine edge highlight on just the highest edges and corners of either troll slayer orange or fire dragon bright...I'm gonna buy the new edge paint, lugganoth orange, and see if that works better. In my opinion I think the edges are too orange, probably edging too thick. With each layered highlight remember to cover less and less ara with each layer; the wildrider (before the glaze) should only be covering the top of the back packs parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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