Artemid Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 Hey all, Been very much contemplating grabbing an airbrush setup for vehicles/main and base coats, or ideally a level of highlights too, thinking that it could greatly speed my painting process or allow me to do some new stuff. That said, I know jack-all about them and I've got a bunch of questions. Some of these are pretty run of the mill that I'm sure have been asked before, but I think some aren't. What should I look for in one? I'm not horribly budget constrained and don't need to go bargain bin, but I don't think I would want to spend a ton, either. Any recommendations? What does your workflow with an airbrush look like? How much do you actually use it for? Where do you use one? Do they actually require a hood or booth, or do you just lay something down on your desk and not worry about it? How practical are they? I'm guessing I can't just keep painting on my desk between my keyboard and monitor with one... Thanks guys :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nym468 Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I've had an airbrush the IWATA HP-CS for about a year and I love the thing. I mainly use it for base coating because it provides an even layer and smooth finish. I've also used it for some highlighting on large objects to provide some shading effects (storm raven engines) and also areas like the indents on the sides of the hulls of rhinos and land raiders. I tend to paint those the color of the respective company. White and yellow are two colors I cannot seem to get a smooth finish or good coverage without the airbrush. In my Hall of Honor thread there is a marked inscrease in the speed at which I was finishing models because I didn't have to spend 20 minutes base coating them. Now I wait until I have enough figures or vehicles to justify filling up the reservoir and airbrushing a good base coat onto 15-20 figures or two or three vehicles. When I was shopping for a brush I read very mixed reviews on suction style airbrushes (small bottle below the airbrush) and opted for a gravity fed system (the ones with a little cone shaped reservoir). You'll want a compressor with a moisture separator (not sure if this is the correct term but basically it has a small spigot below the outlet that collects any moisture so it doesn't end up causing sputtering. Mine also has the ability to adjust the air pressure for a given task. You should also consider finding a brand that you can readily obtain parts for because periodically you many need to replace them. Things like the nozzle if it gets gummed up or the needle if you happen to bend it. I don't have a hood system however I do use it in a well ventilated area, remember this thing is going to create super fine particles when it sprays and some of them will remain airborne. I also where a mask over my nose and mouth as well as safety glasses. The glasses may be overkill but you only get one set of eyes. I lay down a piece of cardboard and have a drop cloth as a backdrop. Hope this helps. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3402599 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted June 27, 2013 Share Posted June 27, 2013 I had some issues starting up with it myself, very recently in fact. I went for a fancy airbrush at a bargain price, and I had a miserable time with the damned thing. So instead I got a $50 Iwata Neo, and it's a damned workhorse. I love the little guy (and at least my first fidgety nightmare of a brush taught me how to field strip one in no time flat). It's sort of like an AK-47 of airbrushes, really: rudimentary, but still gets the job done and very reliable. I strongly prefer a gravity feed. Compressors should indeed have the moisture traps. A brush with a .3 needle is a happy medium. A .2 is for very fine detail work and will clog like crazy. A .5 is good for basecoating, and pretty hard to clog, but not very good at precision. The .3 can basecoat, highlight, and can do decent fine detail work, and is okay with clogs. I use mine for the vast bulk of my Broken Arrows' painting process. Prime, basecoat, 45 degree zenithal highlight, straight down zenithal highlight. After that I do some hand painting for metal bits and iconography, an oil wash, and damage, but I don't bother painting on highlights. A huge time saver there. It's not to say that it wouldn't potentially contribute to the model's quality, but it's well enough above tabletop standard with the current process that hand-painted highlights are far from necessary. Doing that by hand the whole way through would quadruple the time it takes, and look not nearly as good. I can't wait to use it on a vehicle, considering how much I have always loathed painting them by hand! The tedium is in the prep work. A huge amount of the time saving is in pushing through a lot of models in bulk. Consequentially, you have to get a bunch of models prepped at a time. Cleaning off mold lines for 15 marines and making 15 bases back to back was mind numbing. It's still far more time efficient over all, but it doesn't feel like it at times. Some things I learned by trial and error- Priming was one of the main reasons I got one. For me, Vallejo primer was a disaster, and peeled into ribbons no matter the preparation or dry time. Others swear by the stuff, but I have no idea how. Instead, I now use lacquer, which comes with a host of serious issues, specifically the fumes. I work in a room with a strong vent, but you still have to wear a respirator (and gloves, and goggles). That aside, the stuff is not coming off of those models. There will be a learning curve. Getting the hang of thinning paints just right at a glance will take time, and you'll spend your first sessions spending a lot of time clearing clogs and taking the thing apart. Some simple bits like a bottle of Redgab needle juice (pretty cheap and lasts a damned lifetime) will help with those troublesome clogs and dry tip, but it's not a miracle cure. Watch youtube. Religiously. Guys like Les Bursley (awesomepaintjobs) and BuyPainted have a ton of tutorial vids, from basic operation to painting guides. They have already been invaluable to me. This 2 part video more or less set the foundation for my current method- Workroom is important. The compressor takes up a fair bit, your assembled paints will take up more, the cleaning pot will take up more, then paper towels, q-tips, the models themselves, cleaning solution...if I were tidier it would be good, but it's still a workstation in itself. That's all I can think to add to this rant. Hope it helps. I'm still learning myself, so I'll share more if I hit another stumbling block I can help you avoid :P Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3402616 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hasdrubal Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 What should I look for in one? I'm not horribly budget constrained and don't need to go bargain bin, but I don't think I would want to spend a ton, either. Any recommendations?You can get pretty decent airbrushes for an OK budget. I'm using Haarder & Steinbeck and Iwata airbrushes, but Badger is also a strong name, and likely easier to get if you're in North America. Things to look for:- double action (ie. being able to control the amount of air as well as paint projected)- gravity-fed (much easier to control as it can be used with a much lower air pressure)- ease of getting spare parts in your area (especially needles, nozzles and nozzle O-ring)If you can get enough cash, I strongly recommend the Iwata HP-CS, which is an amazing all-rounder with excellent paint atomization.The sad thing is, the most expensive item when starting airbrushing is a good-quality compressor. It will cost about 250-300 USD, but will last for a lifetime. You should look for the following features- air moisture trap- air tank (to store compressed air, and get a consistent flow)- pressure adjustment knob / dial (you'll eventually start playing with pressure to account for different thinning ratios)If you don't have enough cash, save until you can afford a decent compressor first.What does your workflow with an airbrush look like? How much do you actually use it for?I use the airbrush for priming, basecoating, varnishing, basic zenithal shadows and highlights (infantry models) or full shading and highlights (vehicles), and some special effects such as chipping on vehicles.Workflow for an airbrushing session typically is1. get your area ready: prepare your paints, water/thinner, paper towel, AB cleaning pot (or paper towel)2. at session start, control the AB flow by spraying water (to check for any acrylic residue clogging the AB3. mix your paint to the desired consistency, and test how it sprays on a spare piece of paper. Adjust thinning ratio and or air pressure until satisfactory4. spray 5. reguarly check the needle for dried paint accumulation, and clean as you go6. once you're done with a color, spray water to clean the airbrush. If dried paint on the needle, dismatle the airbrush and clean it7. choose another color and repeat steps 3-58. after you're done with your airbrushing session, spray water, then airbrush cleaner or thinner. Dismantle the airbursh and thoroughly clean the nozzle, needle and pot. Assemble the AB and spray water to clean it.As you can see, it takes some time. I personally wouldn't set up an AB session without at least 1h30 to dedicate to it (preferably 2-3 hours), as there is a fixed time to properly set up and clean the AB.Where do you use one? Do they actually require a hood or booth, or do you just lay something down on your desk and not worry about it? How practical are they? I'm guessing I can't just keep painting on my desk between my keyboard and monitor with one...In my kitchen (I'm serious!). The big plus of airbrushing as that once no longer has to use spray cans and the solvents they require to spray paint or varnish. It's just regular air This being said, I am assuming you'll be using acrylic paint only, as urethane are another kettel of fish. Do you lungs a favor and wear a mask when airbrushing to avoid inhaling particles of acrylic paint! Realistically, the minmum area you''l need is about 2 feet wide x 1 foot deep, preferrably larger. Don't forget that sprays are 3D vectors and protect the waals / side area as well (especially if, like me, your significant other wants her paint applainces paint-free)!To echo what the others said, watch videos and practice again and again. Airbrushing has quite a steep learning curve, and there will be sessions spent cleaning your airbrush because you clogged it with an improper thinning ratio, instead of painting. I would also recommend looking at dedicated airbrushing youtube channels (airbrush tricks, etc.) to get the basics, and open your eyes to another way of painting, especially for special effects. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3402896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
facmanpob Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 Firepower gave some good advice....watch youtube.... and on that note this is a video by Ken Schlotfeldt, President of Badger Airbrush Company, in which he takes you through all of the different options available when purchasing an airbrush, what they mean and whether they are important to you depending on your reason for wanting an airbrush. Most importantly, it is NOT an advert for Badger, and he is very impartial. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3403010 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted June 28, 2013 Share Posted June 28, 2013 About the compressor, I've got a real solid little beauty that only costs $100 from TCPGlobal. Runs quiet, reliable, moisture trap, adjustable pressure, everything you need. This puppy- http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/tc20t.html I've yet to run into an issue with it, and it comes with 2 years warranty, so even if I do it's covered. The one drawback is that the people at TCP are total...well, :cuss . But just buying a tank, you won't run into the same issues that I had with them. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3403037 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artemid Posted June 29, 2013 Author Share Posted June 29, 2013 Thanks a ton guys! Lots of food for thought here - and actually thinking I should probably hold off on one for now, haha don't really have a good space to use one given my current living situation. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3403670 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Firepower Posted June 29, 2013 Share Posted June 29, 2013 Well, if you are very economical, you may be able to fit it at your standard work station (assuming you can find a shelf for any paints or brushes or models you aren't using), but ventilation is the real trick. I highly recommend it if you can somehow work around that detail. I love mine (now that I got the hang of it)! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3403696 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artemid Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Thanks again everyone. Still considering - especially when I stare at my unpainted Land Raider... Now a follow up. How well does it deal with stuff like doing a quartered scheme, which my Successors are? Is it controllable enough to feasibly do it or would the accuracy or masking be too much of a :cuss? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3406380 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.k.i.t.t.l.e Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I haven't done it myself, but I reckon that a quarter scheme wouldn't really be that much of a problem. Tamiya do a great masking tape just for modellers in a variety of widths, it's sticky enough to hold on to your models,but not so much that it tears any paint off with it when you're finished. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3406469 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nym468 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I haven't used it specifically to quarter a model or figure but I have used it with great success to mask off an area to spray another color. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3406607 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Artemid Posted August 4, 2013 Author Share Posted August 4, 2013 Good Emperor this got set far back! p34c3 hasn't even shown up yet, lol. It's been working better lately, mostly been needing to fight tip dry. All your help has been invaluable! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3411787 Share on other sites More sharing options...
p34ce Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 Well I'm here now, and that's all that matters. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/277387-a-plethora-of-n00b-airbrush-questions/#findComment-3413092 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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