"Modularizing" marine weapons at the wrist?

[tvih]

Normally I - and of course others - that magnetize their models magnetize the whole arm. Obviously.

 

But how do you folks modularize weapons when you have to do it at the wrist join? When the arm down to the wrist isn't changeable, but the hand and weapon are a separate bit, and you want to modularize that part.

 

2mm wide magnets are a minimum to work with as far as strong enough magnets go, but it seems to me that even with space marines the hands are generally only about 2mm wide as well! So drilling 2mm holes doesn't seem like an option. The only other thing I can think of is some sort of 1mm pin attachment, but I don't know if that'll actually hold the bit in place, and I don't have any 1mm "rod" to test that with.

 

In general it seems like I've a stupid amount of work to do with magnets and all that, as the previous 2x1 magnets I have installed to perhaps 20 power armor models aren't strong enough, and arms keep falling off in transit and mid-game, which is highly annoying. So I'd need to manage to dig 'em out and swap either stronger 2x1 magnets or just put 3x1s instead. I'd prefer the latter, but the problem is that even drilling 2mm holes has a tendency to tear the torso halves apart despite being properly glued with plastic glue, so a 3mm drill seems to make it very hard to keep it in one piece. Additionally the arms aren't all that thick, and to install a 3x1mm magnet the hole tends to be nearly 3mm deep because of the shape of my drill head. Which poses the possibility of piercing the shoulder, which is not quite optimal. It's not an issue with finecast models where the torso is in one piece and thus can take the wider drill, and the arms have the integrated shoulder pad (I keep mine changeable and blu-tacked on plastic models) to give it depth to drill into. As such now that I magnetized my finecast Vanguard the arms are very secure, while my Templar initiates... sigh. If only I wasn't so obsessed with modularity.

[p34ce]

What I considered, at one point, was to do what I'd normally do when converting long melee weapons - use a bit of straightened paper clip wire as a pin.

 

Drill a socket in either the wrist joint of the arm (deeper socket, but need one pin per weapon option), or in the weapon holding hand (only one pin, in the arm, but the socket would be shallow).

 

I haven't honestly tried it yet, but I would think it would work better than magnets. Perhaps even with a tiny, tiny bead of super-glue on the end of the pin when you change them around - just enough to hold them in place, but not so much that you foul the socket or need to use excessive force to get them out.

 

I've already ruled out 2mm x 1mm magnets. The can hold the weapon on, but at the first application of leverage, they fall right off. Don't see them holding up to gaming use.

 

 

EDIT:

 

I should add that I got so fed up magnetising arms that I just ordered a few spare sets of legs and arms (already had plenty of spare torsos and backpacks from assault kits), and just made separate models. I also do this with my tactical sergeants - I make one with a regular bolter, and one with a combi-weapon (taken from the commander kit, so it doesn't always fit right where a bolter would), but use the same chest, head, leg parts.

[tvih]

For HQs I swap gear around a lot, so magnets were a must... but from the start I figured I'd do it even for my initiates because I have a tendency to jump between bolter and CC squads as well as different special weapon options. Problem is the first batches of 2x1mm I got are too weak. Now I have the strongest ones available (grade N52) which are better, but still not nearly as good as 3x1m.

 

But the wrist thing is indeed even trickier. What's more I have metal models that would need a modular wrists, too... gah.

[T14]

You have several options, I reckon:

• Get deeper magnets with a 1mm diameter. There is plenty depth available in the forearm, so it should work fine.
• replace the wrist "disk" with a magnet, if possible. Measure the diameter and depth of the wrist armor disk, and try to find a magnet with similar dimensions. No idea if this is feasible, but it's a thought.
• Use a snug fitting pinning system. A square pin on the hand and a hollowed out arm stump with a GS(or blutack) liner should work. This will not rotate on you, as magnet options might.

[Hyaenidae]

Use a snug fitting pinning system. A square pin on the hand and a hollowed out arm stump with a GS(or blutack) liner should work. This will not rotate on you, as magnet options might.

 

I've done this trick before (as my magnet skills are beyond terrible), and it works like a charm. This'd be my suggestion.

[Subtle Discord]

Yep, a 'square pin' will solve any rotating problems, and if it's large enough you can do as suggested; make a square pin to stop rotating, and then add the magnet to the center to add attraction.

 

If rotating isn't as much of an issue, combine the ideas; use a long cylinder magnet like a pin to add stability. Drill a deep hole and place a 1-2mm tall disk a the bottom of it, then drill the counter hole an average depth and put a 3-5mm cylinder in it, sticking out like a pin.

 

But honestly, for weapon swapping on a single model, larger magnets at the shoulders really is more practical. The wrist has the problems you're running into; there's limited options to get really strong magnets in such a tight spot.

 

Another small suggestion; when you're building torsos, add a blob of greenstuff to the center before you assemble so it's not hollow. You have to take a bit of care to make sure you get just the right amount, but then it will be solid and ready drill as deeply as you'd like.

[p34ce]

Another small suggestion; when you're building torsos, add a blob of greenstuff to the center before you assemble so it's not hollow. You have to take a bit of care to make sure you get just the right amount, but then it will be solid and ready drill as deeply as you'd like.

I made the mistake of not doing this with 3mm shoulder magnets right at the start, and it's such a pain. Magnet spinning around, or worse falling into the torso because there's nothing there to stop it. Not that much you can do though, if you've already assembled the majority of your torsos :/.

[Subtle Discord]

 

Another small suggestion; when you're building torsos, add a blob of greenstuff to the center before you assemble so it's not hollow. You have to take a bit of care to make sure you get just the right amount, but then it will be solid and ready drill as deeply as you'd like.

I made the mistake of not doing this with 3mm shoulder magnets right at the start, and it's such a pain. Magnet spinning around, or worse falling into the torso because there's nothing there to stop it. Not that much you can do though, if you've already assembled the majority of your torsos :/.

 

Drill the hole clean through on one side, and then pack if full of greenstuff with a narrow sculpting tool. Let cure and drill again. That's about the only thing I can think of.

[p34ce]

Oh, it's a problem I solved quite a while ago. I just push a blob of GS into the hole, and press it with the big stack of magnets. Same thing I do when I drill the holes in the arms too deep.

[tvih]

But honestly, for weapon swapping on a single model, larger magnets at the shoulders really is more practical. The wrist has the problems you're running into; there's limited options to get really strong magnets in such a tight spot.

I always magnetize at the shoulder where possible - but this wrist thing is for models such as finecast/metal ones where the weapon of choice is attached at the wrist, and the work required to remove the arm would be excessive or even impossible without severely damaging the model, something I will not do just for the sake of a changeable weapon.

 

As for the torso magnets, the empty space in itself never was a problem for me. However a few days ago I tried changing some 2mm ones into 3mm. Ugly. The torsion from the drill bit keeps pulling the torso front and back apart no matter how you glue them. This used to be a problem even when originally drilling the 2mm holes, and is so much worse with 3mm. With luck I managed to drill a previously undrilled torso with 3mm holes, though. This really does suck, as I just don't trust even the stronger 2mm magnets now. The 3mm ones are just so much stronger.

[Valerian]

I followed the recommendations from the following YouTube videos and was able to successfully magnetize wrist and hand/weapons on several models, including Grey Knight Terminators and regular Grey Knight Strike Knights.

 

Part 1:

 

 

 

Part 2:

 

 

 

 

 

Ordered the recommended N52 magnets from here: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10

 

Worked well for me, and I've started magnetizing models left and right now.

 

Best,

 

Valerian

[Valerian]

Okay, not sure why I can't link to those videos, but if you do a search for GameFaceNation on YouTube, you'll find them.

 

V

[ShottyScotty]

Anyone have a step by step for the pinning weapons? Ive tried looking but cound find anything.
Im lurking this thread now. I bought a gamesday boarding captain from ebay, but I want to make him modular. I plan on making him a "Chaptain" (or Caplain) where by a head swap I can make him into a chaplain if necessary (because Grimaldus is awesome, and would be better in mk 3)

[Valerian]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2eH2Mdr4Gg

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqdzpUkIpxo

 

Hopefully these two links will work. This two part tutorial on how to magnetize infantry models was especially helpful to me.

 

Valerian

[Lucien Eilam]

I've used a simple brass rod pin and drilled hole in the past. Assuming plastic or resin compnents, if your drill bit is the same size as the pin, you won't have to bother with putty or magnets or square rods or any of that. It should be a tight enough fit to hold it in place.

[Valerian]

For pinning, I just clip off straight sections from medium-sized paperclips.  As just stated by Lucien, use a drill bit the same size as the rod/paperclip section and it's a snap.

 

V