New Citadel Paint line Hexidecimal values

[SRSFACE]

First, hello. New here. Dunno how much I'll post, because I'm rather internet shy, but greetings nonetheless.

 

I used to use the Bolter and Chainsword space marine painter tool while bored at work while thinking up new schemes before I actually got into the hobby. Glad to see it's back up and running. However, it's still using the old GW paint scheme values. I didn't know if there was any demand to see it updated, but, I was kind of hoping it would seeing as anyone getting into the hobby nowadays no longer has access to, say, "Boltgun Metal" and instead has to use "Leadbelcher."

 

It's really not that big a deal, but I'm hyper OCD, so, to me, it is.

 

I figure rather than being someone crying "I demand this thing!", I'd just go extract the #hex values myself and share it with you all. Method used to extracting the color values is pretty simple: I simply grabbed screenshots off the GW paints page, then did a color select using GIMP photo editor, then copy-pasted the #hex value.

 

I don't know how strict y'all are with trademarked names (technically, the names of the paints are trademarked!) so I figure if it's against the rules, hopefully someone can just edit it out of this post. Otherwise, here goes. Final note, I only got the values for "Base" and "Layer" paints, while skipping metallics. The rest of their line is all to drybrush on or to add shading or technical effects so I don't see much of a point in nabbing those. And the metallics just end up being flat colors so I didn't see the point.

 

CITADEL BASE PAINTS:

Ceramite White: #ffffff

Averland Sunset: #fcb825

Jokaero Orange: #ee3823

Mephiston Red: #991115

Khorne Red: #6a0002

Naggaroth Night: #3e3355

Daemonette Hide: #696685

Kantor Blue: #001f51

Macragge Blue: #0d407f

Caledor Sky: #386e9d

Stegadon Scale Green: #074764

Incubi Darkness: #0b4849

Caliban Green: #003f1d

Waaagh! Flesh: #20552b

Castellan Green: #304921

Death World Forest: #5c6631

Zandri Dust: #9e915c

Steel Legion Drab: #5f5034

Bugman's Glow: #845045

Ratskin Flesh: #ae6b4e

Mournfang Brown: #650a09

XV-88: #72481e

Rhinox Hide: #493335

Dryad Bark: #34312c

Mechanicus Standard Grey: #3c4a4d

Celestra Grey: #90a8a8

Abaddon Black: #231f20

Rakarth Flesh: #a29e92

The Fang: #436276

Screamer Pink: #7b1645

 

CITADEL LAYER PAINTS 1:

White Scar: #ffffff (note, same as Ceramite White. If this does get added into the editor, I'd say use this name)

Yriel Yellow: #feda00

Flash Gitz Yellow: #fef100

Troll Slayer Orange: #f46c2e

Fire Dragon Bright: #f48550

Evil Sunz Scarlet: #c2191f

Wild Rider Red: #eb2e28

Wazdakka Red: #8b0a0c

Squig Orange: #a94f44

Xereus Purple: #49225f

Genestealer Purple: #7761aa

Warpfiend Grey: #6c6a75

Slaanesh Grey: #8e8c97

Alaitoc Blue: #295788

Hoeth Blue: #4c7fb4

Altdorf Guard Blue: #1f56a8

Calgar Blue: #4272b8

Teclis Blue: #317fc1

Lothern Blue: #33a2cf

Sotek Green: #0c6a74

Temple Guard Blue: #329a8d

Kabalite Green: #028d66

Sybarite Green: #2fa56b

Warpstone Glow: #1e7332

Moot Green: #52b146

Warboss Green: #3e7f5d

Skarsnik Green: #5e926e

Loren Forest: #51702d

Straken Green: #627f26

Nurgling Green: #839a62

Elysian Green: #758e3a

Ogryn Camo: #9ea94b

Ushabti Bone: #bcbc80

Screaming Skull: #d4d3a2

Tallarn Sand: #a67610

Karak Stone: #bb9662

Cadian Fleshtone: #c87958

Kislev Flesh: #d5a775

Bestigor Flesh: #d18a56

Ungor Flesh: #d6a666

Skrag Brown: #8f490e

Deathclaw Brown: #b26752

Tau Light Ochre: #bf6d1c

Balor Brown: #8b5910

Zamesi Desert: #dca026

Doombull Brown: #5d000a

Tuskgor Fur: #883736

Gorthor Brown: #644540

Baneblade Brown: #927f6e

Dawnstone: #6f746d

Administratum Grey: #949b94

Eshin Grey: #4a4f53

Dark Reaper: #3b4f50

Thunderhawk Blue: #417175

Skavenblight Dinge: #48413b

Stormvermin Fur: #726b65

Ulthuan Grey: #c7e0da

Pallid Wych Flesh: #cdcebe

Russ Grey: #547588

Fenrisian Grey: #709cb7

Pink Horror: #91305d

Emperor's Children: #b84177

 

[Kastor Krieg]

The Ceramite White and White Scar are TOTALLY not #FFFFFF. One of them is a reddish (warm) "zinc" white, the other blueish (cool) "titanium" type of white.

Also, I'm sorry to say, going off their "blotches" or photos is pointless, the first are totally inaccurate, to the point of being outright worng. The other are corrected and adjusted.

The only way to do it halfway properly is

a) get neutral day light lamps

paint every single paint on ideally white (not blueish, not reddish) sheet of paper

c) take photos without ANY filter or correction

d) extract hex values from the RAW files

Otherwise, it's all for naught and the discrepancies are staggering. Awfully sorry to shoot you down, mate, and thanks for the huge effort anyway.

[SRSFACE]

For the purposes of what the Space Marine Painter does, I'd say it's accurate enough. It's a better feel of what the new paint line is than what is currently offered on it. That's all I was going for.

 

Also with regards to Ceramite vs. White Scar, I've used both and I'm convinced they are the same color with just a slight difference in consistency. I can seem to thin down White Scar a lot better to utilize it as just a catch-all white highlight. Maybe that's just me, though.

[Gurth]

I was going to say somebody already posted this but I get the impression that my comments there about (in)accuracy and general usefulness of these values caused him to remove them …

[No Foes Remain]

I was going to say somebody already posted this but I get the impression that my comments there about (in)accuracy and general usefulness of these values caused him to remove them …

You mean this?

[Gurth]

Ah, I see what he did now … a discussion developed (well, I say a discussion … I said to be careful using these as references), so he started a new thread and locked it to get the codes away from the perceived criticism. I mean, if it's really a "discussion thread" he should have linked both to the other.

All I can say is: it's good to be the king^wmoderator

[SRSFACE]

I figure people are smart enough to assume the colors are always going to come out darker/lighter depending on how they base-coated the model, seeing as what's currently offered in the SMP is pretty much exactly what I did but with the older paint line.

 

But I digress.

 

Sorry for not having seen the other post, guess my search-fu to make me not look like an idiot on my first post in a new forums is sorely lacking.

[Bryan Blaire]

Trust me, I in no way disagreed with your points about their inaccuracy, Gurth, the way I did it was totally inaccurate regards getting "true color". However, the SM Painter hasn't been updated with new codes for new paint colors yet (and I'm not sure exactly how those color codes may in fact be generated if/when it is updated), and I haven't had the time to go about getting them any more accurately. I created the pinned one and locked it because that is the actual resource, and it wasn't intended to fall off the board simply because discussion died down about it, not to stifle any discussion about the methods on how I obtained them. Simple bumps for the subject are silly and there's a reason we can pin threads.

 

I have added a link to the discussion thread, as suggested.

 

SRSFACE, welcome to the forums and I do find it interesting that some of your hex values are just slightly off the ones I came up with, even though we used a similar method. It was suggested to me at one point that making sure you extract the hex code from the same pixel within the splotch would result in a more consistent method, but I haven't actually been able to try that yet.

[Gurth]

I figure people are smart enough to assume the colors are always going to come out darker/lighter depending on how they base-coated the model

You'd be surprised … Though I'd say you're probably right as regards to base-coating, very few people realise the problems with colour accuracy on computer screens, and that's without even trying to compare those to paint colours.

seeing as what's currently offered in the SMP is pretty much exactly what I did but with the older paint line.

The Space Marine painter is a nice tool, but by its very nature it suffers from the same problem You can certainly use it, or the colour numbers you posted, to get an impression of the colours and/or schemes you want, but I'd be highly surprised if anyone's painted models accurately resemble what they designed on-screen with either of them

Sorry for not having seen the other post, guess my search-fu to make me not look like an idiot on my first post in a new forums is sorely lacking.

Don't sweat it, it's not like there's only a dozen posts on this forum that you could easily have checked.

not to stifle any discussion about the methods on how I obtained them.

Maybe it was just my mildly paranoid nature shining through

It was suggested to me at one point that making sure you extract the hex code from the same pixel within the splotch would result in a more consistent method, but I haven't actually been able to try that yet.

I doubt it. If the colour samples are single-colour images with lossless compression (like PNG or GIF do), they should be the same colour all-over, so it wouldn't matter which pixel you sampled. OTOH if they use lossy compression (like JPEG) then you can pretty much forget about accuracy regardless of which method you use, especially if the compression has been turned up high.

Checking the originals just now, it looks like they're sort of OK — though the images are JPEGs, the central part of each is a plain area that appears to have the same RGB values for each pixel. Just don't sample anywhere near the edges, since there's compression artifacts all around there (zoom in on the edge and you'll see what I mean).