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Blackadder's Lucius Pattern Reaver Conversion Kit


Blackadder

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Just regged to tell you what an incredible work you are doing.

As someone who tried to build a Warhound from scratch, I find your work highly inspiring.

Keep it up smile.png

Welcome aboard,

If you're interested let me refer you to my Scratch Warhound build on Dakka:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/226296.page

for a complete log of my first total titan scratchbuild.

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on my to do list is to builds two chaos warhounds, but they have to be mars pattern, will be a bit of work with all the curves, but your threads have been very inspiring, so thank you alot

 

oh and you wouldent by any chance have the messurements for mars pattern balljoints?

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thamier, on 16 Apr 2015 - 09:53 AM, said:
on my to do list is to builds two chaos warhounds, but they have to be mars pattern, will be a bit of work with all the curves, but your threads have been very inspiring, so thank you alot
 
So you're scratchbuilding two Chaos Warhounds, impressive
 

 

thamier, on 16 Apr 2015 - 09:53 AM, said:
oh and you wouldent by any chance have the messurements for mars pattern balljoints?
 
Hip Ball joint = 1.07 inch (27,8 MM)
 
Ankle Ball joint = 0.96 inch (24.25 MM)
 
Weapon arm Ball joint = 0.83 inch ( 21.1 MM)
 
Neck Ball joint = 1.16 inch (29.5 MM)
 
 

 

thamier, on 16 Apr 2015 - 09:53 AM, said:
on my to do list is to builds two chaos warhounds, but they have to be mars pattern, will be a bit of work with all the curves, but your threads have been very inspiring, so thank you alot
 
So you're scratchbuilding two Chaos Warhounds, impressive
 

 

thamier, on 16 Apr 2015 - 09:53 AM, said:
oh and you wouldent by any chance have the messurements for mars pattern balljoints?
 
Hip Ball joint = 1.07 inch (27,8 MM)
 
Ankle Ball joint = 0.96 inch (24.25 MM)
 
Weapon arm Ball joint = 0.83 inch ( 21.1 MM)
 
Neck Ball joint = 1.16 inch (29.5 MM)
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You're running outta ideas Blackadder.


I put this together this morning when it dawned on me it looks reminiscent of a Cylon Raider.



http://i.imgur.com/IUw6Knzl.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/Wai1JAIl.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/Aodm14Xl.jpg



http://i.imgur.com/upEbsfCl.jpg


What's a Cylon Raider you ask?


That's what google is for........... biggrin.png

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Done:

 

God knows how many bits and pieces of styrene went into replicating the interior framework of the Mars Reaver so the parts fit to a paper's thickness tolerance but it's finally done. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/eULUl0cl.jpg

 

All the pieces fit exactly and the front upper and lower components lock together with just two pins.

 


http://i.imgur.com/GiBJScBl.jpg

 

Below is the front top and bottom sections connected with the two styrene pins 

 


http://i.imgur.com/HNbJcjnl.jpg

 

And the front assembly with the forward bulkhead in place

 


http://i.imgur.com/PjS661Xl.jpg

 

Whew!

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Greaves and Lower Legs:

 

I was never satisfied how the greaves and lower legs swapped out, the whole assembly was too flimsy and looked amateurish. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/zNxT8pXl.jpg

 

Whilst finishing up the greave armour I came up with a better solution that will allow the lower leg to be build up completely as a Mars pattern and the new Lucius lower leg and greave likewise.

 

Below is the greave as a single self contained lower leg assembly albeit without the upper shank/knee joint installed

 


http://i.imgur.com/llJfnqhl.jpg

 

The image below shows where the ankle hemisphere will attach.

 

The asymmetry is because of how the Reaver legs are constructed. I have studied the anatomy of the Reaver and found it ill conceived as far as functionality. That is why the classic Reaver stance is with the legs sprawled; it cannot do otherwise.

 

The Reaver actually as designed could never walk so much as waddle like a toddler the top hamper weaving side to side in a severe dead man's roll rocking motion like a boat broadside to the waves as the legs spraddle and are incapable of being put one behind the other in a true biped gait. On the whole, Reavers moving across a battlefield would be a comical sight. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/YmudIJYl.jpg

 

Finally the shank of the upper leg being built up

 


http://i.imgur.com/Y53Iik9l.jpg

 

Right the core is in fact a one inch section of a broomstick.
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Dementia:

 

Probably this titan will never see completion as I keep finding things with which to be to be dissatisfied. The latest is the lower legs which while somewhat workable with the FW model need modification for a Lucius Reaver especially since I want them at least engineeringly feasible dynamically as well as satisfactory in a static pose.

 

Below is the reconstruction as of this morning demonstrating the stages needed to effect the modification.

 


http://i.imgur.com/JxZGdD9l.jpg

 

As usual I underestimated the time involved in the repair as I keep adding unnecessary details such as beveled edges and rivets and reinforcement strip decorations on pieces that will barely be seen or appreciated for their complexity.

 


http://i.imgur.com/9OgyJkMl.jpg

 

My goal today is to duplicate the detail on these drum shaped objects to match their FW counterparts, the resin piece on the right.

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How To Make Drums and Cylinders:

 

With the images in the above post sturdy cylinders for use as legs &etc compatible with styrene is simple an quick.

 

Evergreen Styrene makes tubes up to 13 MM (1/2 inch ) but sometimes you need a larger diameter.

 

Start with a wooden dowel slightly less than the requisite diameter of the part you want to make; in this case a leg so we'll say leg but it can be any cylindrical object.

 

If the part has flat ends that you want to glue to more styrene parts as I need to you'll want to glue on endcaps as well so use 0.020 inch ( 0.5 MM ) styrene sheets; cut the sheet slightly longer than the dowel and wide enough to wrap around the dowel slightly more than twice which will give you sufficient gluing surface to attach your end caps.

 

Wrap the plastic around the dowel and glue and clamp the seam. For larger diameters wrap wide widths of styrene sheet or use bigger dowels.

 

When the glue is dried bevel the edge you glued so the seam in relatively flat.

 

Sand off the ends flush with the wood dowel, put a drop of cyanoacrylate on the end of the dowel and glue on a sheet of 0.040 inch styrene for end caps. The cyliner is done, encased in styrene and strong enough to support any reasonable weight.

 

Next; installing bands and details........

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Black adder you know if you take FW model out of the conversion kit there isn't much left to model and you would have two reavers.

And we all know you are just crazy enough to think it, to do it and then go back and put an interior in.

Seriously though your work is both inspiring and intimidating in equal measure keep up the fantastic work.

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Don't kid yourself, granted if I had started from scratch to build a Reaver without making it a convertible it probably would have not taken any more time; the hardest part was to make the two patterns compatible; well live and learn.............

 

but since I committed to the folly of a convertible model and have gotten so deep into it  it would be sheer lunacy to start building the rest of the Reaver now and would probably take another couple of years....

 

Still..........

 

Nahhh! I'm going for the Mars Warlord. :D

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I appreciate that; thanks for the replies.........

 

No 45° beveled stock!
 
What this country needs is a good supply of styrene beveled stock.
 
Now making beveled stock is fairly easy if you're doing short straight pieces but if you want 2 inch pieces to wrap around a drum it's gonna require a bit of work.
 
http://i.imgur.com/JH0thb9l.jpg
 
I started with strips of 0.060 inch styrene strips and wrapped a layer around the drum and glued with Styrene thinset cement.
 
Holding the piece in place for a minute or two is sufficient.
 
Drawing the styrene strip between your thumbnail and the inner knuckle of your index finger will impart a nice curve to the strip so you won't have to fight with it to hold the curve.
 
Next I install 0.030 inch strips around the drum on top of the previous strips creating a shallow stepped appearance
 
http://i.imgur.com/JH0thb9l.jpg
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It seems my initial estimate of how long it would take to replicate the lower leg was badly skewed............

 

Are we have fun yet??????

 

 Knee Prosthesis?

 

My wife who had to have her knee replaced (Time for a newer model?) says this looks remarkably like the one she had installed.........

The initial stages I used the upper leg knee joint for a moulding guide.....

 


http://i.imgur.com/PWH0LoXl.jpg

 


http://i.imgur.com/LeZ3bN6l.jpg

 

Built up of strips of plastic instead of casting required a bit if work especially since I want these to position in any reasonable pose although flexing will be out of the question given the nature of the resin model. I should have opted for doing the entire model from scratch.

 


http://i.imgur.com/769PueTl.jpg

 

The knee joint sits perfectly in the lower knuckle guides.

 


http://i.imgur.com/tjzFlpOl.jpg

 

Side view shows that it is a go to fabricate the other three

 


http://i.imgur.com/0xQynQ0l.jpg

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Not Too Shoddy:

 

It was a week ago I decided that the lower legs and greaves were substandard and decided to rebuild them.

 

I was never happy with the greaves, everything was too flimsy and required too much fiddling to set up. 

 

Here it is a week later; the reinforced greaves with thicker armour with an integral leg assembly and the new legs and foot pad attach point are re-designed, fabricated, and installed.

 

Not too shoddy if I do say so myself. 

 


http://i.imgur.com/q5koQIql.jpg

 

The abomination on the right of these images is the way the old design looked, rather like a house of cards compared to these new very substantial pedal appendages.

 


http://i.imgur.com/RicWB5Kl.jpg

 

This thing just might fly after all .
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