Captain Idaho Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 I went back to repair my models after heavy gaming and a close encounter with my 4 year old, and the Landraider had the dubious honour of going first. Problem I've found is the Regal blue I used has ran out and so I used the new Kantor blue as indicated by the GW conversion chart. It sure looks the same but when I finished and looked at the model in a better light I saw the blue looked different alongside the old scheme. Close but not quite. It now looks very patchy. :( What can I do? I can post up a picture tomorrow to show what I mean. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Blaire Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Wash the whole thing with Guilliman Blue glaze and see if the color evens out some? The conversions between new and old paints doesn't really seem to be 100% on any of them. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426500 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Idaho Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Guilliman blue glaze? Is that a wash or a varnish? Isn't a wash on a large flst surface asking for trouble? I also worry it won't be the same colour as the tank originally, as that'll mean I have to re paint everything in my army! I'm pretty rubbish at painting and haven't a clue about anything close to art! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426506 Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Try Valejho prussian blue edit vallejo dark prussian blue#899 Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426513 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Idaho Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 Is it close to the old regal blue then? Thanks for the replies. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426518 Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Yes really close. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426525 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramell Posted August 17, 2013 Share Posted August 17, 2013 Guilliman blue glaze? Is that a wash or a varnish? Isn't a wash on a large flst surface asking for trouble? I also worry it won't be the same colour as the tank originally, as that'll mean I have to re paint everything in my army! I'm pretty rubbish at painting and haven't a clue about anything close to art! A glaze is similar to a wash, but it's meant to cover the surface. Personally, I haven't had great results with Guilliman Blue over Kantor Blue. It works, but it leaves a faint, streaky and patchy stain on larger surfaces. The GW glazes work better on smaller areas; lenses and plasma coils, for example. My Bloodletter Glaze worked fine over a tabard, though. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426530 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Idaho Posted August 17, 2013 Author Share Posted August 17, 2013 I won't try it right now then because my mate is needed to help me. Yes I'm that pants. I'll try that velyjo dark prussian blue. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426543 Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarkMark Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Glazing is used to alter the tone of a colour, helps blend together the coats underneath, or create an effect. So, glazing with the blue would in effect blend the colours better together. You might try picking up Vallejo's , from the Game Color range, Ultramarine Blue or Night Blue as I think they're very close to the colour you require. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426768 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toxichobbit Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Guilliman blue glaze? Is that a wash or a varnish? Isn't a wash on a large flst surface asking for trouble? I also worry it won't be the same colour as the tank originally, as that'll mean I have to re paint everything in my army! I'm pretty rubbish at painting and haven't a clue about anything close to art! A glaze is similar to a wash, but it's meant to cover the surface. Personally, I haven't had great results with Guilliman Blue over Kantor Blue. It works, but it leaves a faint, streaky and patchy stain on larger surfaces. The GW glazes work better on smaller areas; lenses and plasma coils, for example. My Bloodletter Glaze worked fine over a tabard, though. Do you water the glaze down at all? I know GW sells them as glazes, but i've found they are far to thick to glaze anything but a small area. As an example, working with traditional inks (so thinner than GW washes, not sure if they're thinner than the current GW glazes) I work on a ratio of 1:15 ink to water. Working with a glaze that thin takes quite a few coats to get the right tone, usually between 5 & 10, but i've had no problems with any streaks or patches on Marine armour. It also dries pretty damn quickly, as it's mostly water. Just be careful you don't load too much onto your brush, otherwise it will run everywhere, especially on very small areas. It might not even be necessary to thin the GW glazes that much - i've only worked with them once so i'm not sure how much you'd need to thin it. Basically experiment and see what works best. The less you thin the glaze the less coats it takes to get the required tone. On the other hand, the thinner the glaze and more coats you do, the smoother the transition between blends will become. Finally, if that's too much thinning or doesn't work for you, have you tried some kind of medium? I use two, P3s Mixing Medium and W&N Flow Improver. I find the flow improver thins like water while helping the paint flow smoother, especially useful when mixing two paints from different ranges, or metallics. The mixing medium dilutes the paint but thins it considerably less than the flow improver, so it makes the paint more transparent while keeping some of it's thickness, which is useful for delicate areas to reduce the chance of the paint flowing into cracks. Sometimes I combine to two as well and use less water, if I want a really smooth finish. A word of warning if you go for P3 Mixing Medium - it dries slightly glossy so you'll probably want to finish off with a coat of matt varnish to take the shine away. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426779 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Bjoern Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 The Vallejo Games Colors are 100% equal to the old GW colors. Even the washes. At my LGS they have made themself a comparison chart, they match perfectly. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3426786 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Idaho Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Now I've just looked at a dakka dakka chart that tells me Regal Blue is close to Imperial Blue on the Vallejo range. I'll just buy one of each! :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3427076 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryan Blaire Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I actually thin the new glazes about 1:1 with Vallejo Glaze Medium, that usually allows me to work with them well over larger areas, but if I'm just doing something small, I just use it straight out of the pot with just a very small amount of the glaze itself. The reason I suggested using the glaze over Kantor Blue (since it sounded like that was what was being used) is from similar experience with Caliban Green and Waywatcher Green glaze, since using the latter over the former gives you a color that is matte but very, very similar in coloration to the old Dark Angels Green, and the glaze does help blend some of the color layers together. The Vallejo Game Color is probably going to be a better straight color single paint match. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3427086 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Idaho Posted August 18, 2013 Author Share Posted August 18, 2013 Yeah I ordered a couple bottles of Dark Prussian Blue in the end. They look very similar, despite what the silly charts say! Thanks for the help guys. I'll sort out Washes when my mate comes back from his camping trip, as sort of a supervisor. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3427090 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 As mentioned, a flow enhancer (I've been using the same bottle of Liquitex Flow Aid for years) will help considerably for getting glazes and washes to co-operate with larger surfaces. Heck, it works well with all paint, washes, and glazes, but it really shines in this situation. I also find using a broad flat brush that is damp with Flow Aid prepared water (20-to-1, Water-to-FA) to wet the surface before you work (and as you're going) works wonders. I find when I'm working large areas it is key to have the wash/glaze stay fluid and moving until I'm happy with how it is. You need to move quickly and make sure no hard edges are forming until you're happy with the overall look of an area. It is a pain and a bit tricky to keep advancing while going back to make sure nothing unwanted is happening, but with some practice it's a straight forward technique. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278562-regal-blue-problem/#findComment-3428075 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.