Gree Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I believe I had a topic on this, but with Land Raiders, but it got lost when the forum server crashed. Anyway, as I understand it, cold will weaken superglue bonds, thus making it easy to rip off arms. I'm planning on taking apart a Land Raider, but I'm wondering how long you would need to leave a model in a freezer in order to take it apart. Can anyone help? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 Only an hr or two should be long enough, overnight for really stubborn bonds. Cheers, Jono Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3427543 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 If possible, try to twist the part... It will break easier to a sideways motion instead of a direct pull off motion... But you should be able to pop it apart with your hands or a slight lever action with your hobby knife. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3427553 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffJedi Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 They sell superglue remover also. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3427706 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fibonacci Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Most cyanoacrylate debonders will eat plactic, too. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3428052 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 If the bond is being really stubborn consider a Simple Green soak after you gently flex and twist the part to try and get some cracking happening in the CA. The Simple Green won't soften the super glue, but it does tend to get in/under it and helps it release and peel away from a surface. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3428060 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Most cyanoacrylate debonders will eat plactic, too. nail polish remover tends to eat bases pretty badly... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3428106 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenith Posted August 19, 2013 Share Posted August 19, 2013 Tapping the part on a table may help. If the glue is heavy, try and chip some away first. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3428160 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NovemberIX Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 Sometimes if I know where the patch of glue is, I'll fit a dull xacto into the seam and try to help create some give, I've found though the best tool to pry glued parts apart without completely destroying it is my old Swiss army knife, the blade itself is very thin, but the body of the blade has a longer wider surface area to so spread out the presssure. Take care though because it is increadibly easy to use too much force and bend the plastic, at least with the xacto the blade is more likely to break first. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/278598-a-question-on-removing-glued-parts/#findComment-3428752 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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