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Milliput Super Fine - The White Stuff


Honda

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The last time I was in Hobby Lobby, I picked up a box of Milliput Super Fine White. I'm always looking for and using putties of all types, though I am mainly a Green Stuff kind of guy. No one would mistake my stuff for Chris Borer, but I am able to keep myself amused at times.

 

So, I read the directions, cut off two equal portions and without thinking, dropped one of them into some water, because that's what I always do with my GS.

 

Imagine my surprise to find out that water was causing the bit that I dropped into the water to dissolve. I'm not sure which one is which because they are both white.

 

I rescued the bit, started mixing it with the other component, then added some left over GS that I had because I wasn't able to figure out the Milliput yet and eventually was able to sculpt a piece of fabric that I can add to a vehicle. So the exercise wasn't a complete loss.

 

However, I'm not really sure what to do with the Milliput, besides keep it out of water.

 

Soooo, for those of you with a lot of experience with this product, would you mind passing on any tips/tricks/best practices for this product?

 

I'd be greatly appreciated.

 

Cheers,

There are quite a few websites that give ideas etc for using milliput if you google it - such as:

 

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/construction/techniques/techniques-uses-milliput-putty/

 

As it dries exceedingly hard and strong, and can be sanded/filed, it is great for getting corners/straight edges/angles on vehicles etc which is much more difficult with green/brownstuff. It can be a little brittle sometimes, so care needs to be taken when filing/scraping.

 

You can add Green/brownstuff to it when initially mixing it and this can give you a more flexible result when cured, whilst keeping the sanding/filing properties. I find this very useful in push moulds where I want high definition with strength and flexibility and the ability to file to shape when glued to a model.

 

As you found, water does dissolve it at the early stages, which can be useful sometimes to help smooth it out when initially applied to a model.

 

I have also used milliput to glue broken plates, vases etc back together, filling gaps as it goes together. Some of these plates have outlasted the rest of the dinner set!

Soooo, for those of you with a lot of experience with this product, would you mind passing on any tips/tricks/best practices for this product?

Put it here:

 

http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/overflowing-garbage-can.jpg

 

I've always found most varieties of Milliput to be hard to mix and hard to use, and though the white kind is the least bad, I prefer just about any other epoxy putty over this brand …

LOL!

 

I tried this stuff out a while back to see if it was any better than greenstuff, and I have to agree with Gurth that it's mostly more trouble than it's worth to sculpt with. If you don't get every single bit of that putty off your tools, once it dries, it's like concrete.

You can use the white Milliput to plane the surface of your miniature.

I know some painters that start with really watered down white Milliput coat before they prime their miniatures especially for competition painting.

The surface of your miniature is not that rough anymore so the layers of paint are more smooth, looking better.

To that the Milliput fills small scraps etc.

Miliput on its own isn't (at least IMO) great for sculpting with as it isn't as easy to use as green stuff. You need to keep tools moist the whole time to get a smooth finish otherwise the surface ends up cracked and pitted. It's also incredibly sticky.

However, mix it with GS and it's superb. It gets the best properties of both and as long as you aren't using it for fine detail parts (I'd still use plain GS for those) it's better as you get a smoother finish and it's better to sand down.

That's all my opinion though, obviously not everyone will get on with the product so I'm not saying anyone's wrong, just to me mixing it offers a much better product than just GS for 75% of the sculpting I do.

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