JeffTibbetts Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I have a fair amount of old metal bits about, and I like to mix them into new plastic kits. Backpacks tend to be so high up that the center of balance makes them wobble like a drunken sailor on rough seas. I also like messing around with poses and once in a while I come up with something that's really top-heavy. I've tried gluing everything from coins to cut up bits of pewter on the bottom of the base but with no luck. They still tip more often than I'd like. Has anyone found that one perfect solution? I've heard some people mention lead fishing weights... Does that work? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
skawolf Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I use a penny under the base + the basing. It is usually heavy enough to hold the models... In my experience anyway Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3492757 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffTibbetts Posted October 11, 2013 Author Share Posted October 11, 2013 Tried that. It works a little, but it's never enough. I think I got two of them on there. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3492775 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skawolf Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I usually only use one metal component on plastic models. So with just a backpack or an arm in metal it works out alright.... Now if it's a metal jump pack then its going to require some slate on the base to weigh it down. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3492805 Share on other sites More sharing options...
T14 Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 Base counterweights:http://impactminiatures.com/index.php?option=basing_profile&id=SP_BSWG Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3492813 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dragon Claw Posted October 11, 2013 Share Posted October 11, 2013 I've had relative success with heavy duty washers from DIY stores, usually pretty cheap too considering you can usually get a pack of 50 or so for around a fiver. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3492896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrvat Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I use fishing lead to balance my miniatures. It quite cheap and easy to find. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3493196 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WingsOfTheFalcon Posted October 12, 2013 Share Posted October 12, 2013 I usually fill the cavity underneath the base with Green Stuff on top-heavy models. Seems to do the trick. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3493232 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffTibbetts Posted October 13, 2013 Author Share Posted October 13, 2013 I picked up a pack of 40 split-shot (they look like Pac-Man) fishing weights for 1.80 or something at Wally World. I figure I can cut right where the "jaw" is and they'll be flat on one side so I can glue a few on the bottom. I'll let y'all know how it works out for me. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3493373 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 I use lead curtain weights, as you can buy these 2-3mm smaller than the diameter of the base and plug them in with some superglue. They are pretty cheap too. Just make sure that you cut the slot out of the base if it has one, and that the model has any tabs removed (pin the model to the weighted base). This crams as much weight as possible under the base - on human figures like the Necromunda ones, the base weighs as much as the model itself - I checked with some scales! ;) If that's still not enough, maybe try using a piece of slate as scenic basing on top of the base as well, and then pin the model all the way through the whole damn thing? You'll need a tungsten carbide coated drill bit and a powered drill for this (please be careful!), in order to get through the slate. Last, but not least, is there anyway that you can alter the centre of the model's balance at all? For example, if the model has a big metal backpack and banner, is there any way that you can lean the model forward a little in a running pose? Or have an arm outstretched forward with a metal weapon in it to help offset the back-weight? Following the three points above, I've never had any problems with metal or metal-and-plastic models tipping over. Oh, one more thing: I put a circle of self-adhesive black velour onto the base bottoms when the models are finished as well. this ensures that they don't slip or slide if the surface they are on is not totally flat or even! Plus, they look pretty nice... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3494445 Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffTibbetts Posted October 14, 2013 Author Share Posted October 14, 2013 Black velour on every base? That they walk on? Man, you are classy. I will forever think of you as the Dos Equis guy. Those are some good tips, man! Curtain weights? Brilliant. That's the kind of secret weapon tip I was looking for. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3494670 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted October 14, 2013 Share Posted October 14, 2013 I've got a bag of #6 lead birdshot... My only problem is covering it so I am not rubbing it on my fingers all the time (which is something we all should be worried about with lead weights.) The velour might work... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3494681 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olgerth Istaarn Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 "Real men smelt their own lead counterweights". I've done it 3 times, though all other times a penny has been enough. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3495333 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted October 15, 2013 Share Posted October 15, 2013 Black velour on every base? That they walk on? Man, you are classy. I will forever think of you as the Dos Equis guy. I don't often get recognised, but when I do... ...I can sometimes feel the call of posting a tutorial! So, I thought I'd post a quick 'how-to' on the method I use here in case it's useful to anyone. These mostly use the 30mm lipped bases because that's what I was working on when I snapped the pix at the time, but as you can see at the bottom, I do the same with the 25mm bevelled edge bases too... Essentially, I do all my bases like this to a greater extent (although I don't always use a full lead button for small bases, whereas for large bases I can use two or three if I feel it warranted). Step 1 Take a fresh base, and turn the it over. Using a strong sharp knife, carefully cut the slot out of the base. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step1sm.jpg Step 2 The base should now look like this. I normally check the other side too, to make sure that the cut is neat. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step2sm.jpg Step 3 For the weights, I use lead curtain weights. I got mine from Merrick & Day a while back. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step3sm.jpg If you don't have (or can't get) lead weights, a number of companies make pewter base weights instead. For example, Impact Miniatures in the US makes base weights that can be added to the bottom of slotted bases. Some of these may need some prep-work of their own, but I prefer lead because I like the heavier weight personally. Step 4 The lead weights will need trimming slightly to get a snug fit into a standard 30mm base because of the round shoulder. (The bevelled edge bases usually don't need trimming as long as you bought weights that are 2-3mm smaller than the bottom of the base). After a dry-test fit, I then use lots of thick superglue and stick the weight into the base and make sure it sits flat. Leave it somewhere to dry overnight. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step4sm.jpg Step 5 After the bases are all dry, I mix up some yellow-grey Milliput and pack the underside really well. I also add a little bit to the slot on the top. After about an hour, rinse the base under some warmish water to give the putty a final smoothing, and to ensure you clean off any excess putty off the rim or top. Leave this to cure for a day at least - preferably two or three, as you want the putty cured really hard. This allows you to sand the bottom of the bases flat and smooth. The basic base prep is now done. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step5sm.jpg Step 6 Meanwhile, mix up another quantity of yellow-grey Milliput and put it into a sandwich bag. Using a rolling pin (or a screw-top glass wine bottle filled with water if you don't have (permission to use) one), flatten the putty out to the desired thickness. I would suggest that about 3mm thick is good for flagstones, and 5mm thick is good for slate/concrete. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step6sm.jpg Step 7 Once the putty is cured, you can break it up with pliers and shape it using clippers. For the flagstones, final shaping is done with a sharp knife and care! http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step7sm.jpg Step 8 Arrange the pieces on your base to make a slate-effect that is easy to stick and pin models to... http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step8sm.jpg Step 9 ...Or to make flagstones that look really textured and chunky. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step9sm.jpg Step 10 Or, ignoring making a sculpted top, you can go with the traditional sand/gravel. http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step10sm.jpg Step 11 If you want to use other companies' base toppers, you can just stick them on top as well... Or if (like me) you have some resin bases that you like but still want weighted, you can cut the tops off them, sand the pieces nice and smooth and then finally stick them on as if they were base toppers to start with. I did this recently with some great Tech bases from Dragon Forge (which were so awesomely cast, there weren't even any air bubbles inside the bases! Wow!), and you can see the results look good: http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/Misc/Bases-Step11s.jpg Other Materials and Finishing Touches For timber/wood effects, I get the best result from plastic styrene strip dragged over very coarse sandpaper. I then weather the parts with a very sharp knife (fresh blades really help here). I like the styrene over wood because I can stick it more easily and securely, because I can control the grain, and because I feel it paints up better than actual wood does. I also polish the base edges with fine emery/sand paper before I put the final details on top, as they look much better (especially as I use a very matte finish). I tend to favour painting base rims black too (which I know is not to everyone's taste), and they can show up roughness really easily when they catch light; getting them smooth pretty much eliminates this. Finally, after the base is painted and the model is attached (I paint the models off their bases), I stick a circle of black velour to the bottoms. This adds the final touch to the bases, and ensures that they don't slide about on most surfaces. I know that posting non Space Marine / Imperium pix is grounds to get moderated, but I only have one picture in my PB account that has felted model bases (here), so I hope that linking to it doesn't incur anyone's' wrath! As you can see, they don't really look that different, and the extra weight of the base with the black velour grip feels very solid indeed on the tabletop. So there you have it; my overly complicated (but very satisfying) method of making bases! 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JeffTibbetts Posted October 15, 2013 Author Share Posted October 15, 2013 That is both overly complicated and very satisfying. Bravo, sir. Bravo. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/281771-top-heavy-models/#findComment-3496285 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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