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Blackadder's Refurbishment of Derelict FW Resin Baneblades T

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An Interesting Albeit Erroneous Solution:

 
When I see something like this it saddens me that the most obvious solution was not attempted and instead a much more involved and time wasting and ultimately unsatisfactory resolution was decided on. I offer the following not to belittle the would be modeler but to demonstrate where he could have saved himself a lot of grief and and now been in the possession of a fine resin OOP model instead of a fractional remunerative of the original cost.
 
Note the outrageous effort to make the parts fit by adding shims to the cutouts.
http://i.imgur.com/a7XQUW7l.jpg
 
Note also no attempt was made to trim the rear of the track mud guards the casting fill tubes are still in evidence. The sponsons are protruding a half MM above the surrounding surface and the modeler is attempting to fill the gaps with white styrene and greenstuff.
 
http://i.imgur.com/BpaTKIIl.jpg
 
On the flip side we have a pristine Shadowsword completely untrimmed from the Forge World Skunk Works and the novice builder tried to eliminate the casting flaws by building up the model where the most obvious remedy would be to trim off the casting vents.
 
Using the chisel and a small persuader gently tap the seam to sever the adherent without further damaging the resin. It is not advisable to pry with the chisel or you may shatter the resin Just tap the blade into the seam working along the perimeter a bit at a time so the whole piece comes free by small degrees without putting too much stress on the material as would be the case were you to free each portion entirely before shifting the chisel. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/tOgRd0Yl.jpg
 
Here we find the cause of all this unfortunate modeler's dilemma:
 
The last three models I have found has these large protuberances on the rear edge of the hull and not one of the modelers attempted to dress them down to a uniform height flush with the interior sloped incline.
 
http://i.imgur.com/AIRR3afl.jpg
 
Please note that resin cuts as readily as cheese with the proper tools; in this case a standard Xacto 1/2 inch chisel and a hefty Utility knife with a new blade. and a small hammer.
 
There is never a need to build shims and mountains of green stuff when all that is needed is a bit of judicious trimming. 
 
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Hate Crime?

 
In my previous post I tried to be as charitable as possible but further evidence reveals this to be nothing less than a hate crime.
 
The first order was to remove the excess moulding vent material so the engine compartment can be fitted properly. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/F6wJmeRl.jpg
 
This is simple by literally paring the excess off with my utility knife as I said resin carves as easily as cheese with the proper tool.
 
http://i.imgur.com/oiFSEHkl.jpg
 
After literally a few minutes of whittling the offending protrusions are removed and it's time to address the front deck.
 
The initial inspection of this perplexed me because there was greenstuff everywhere even in places that should have been easily joined such as the front deck underside bumper seam........ 
 
http://i.imgur.com/lE6x4J4l.jpg
 
A few minutes with the hammer and chisel (This 'Greenstuff' is tenacious stuff!) the deck is removed with no damage to the surrounding resin thankfully because the front bumper is one of the great features of the Baneblade genera.
 
http://i.imgur.com/Z77g6Q8l.jpg
 
On to the sponsons.......................
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Perhaps a Chaos Shadowsword:

 
Okay so now the Sponsons, I've itching to see what to styrene plate 'Greenstuff' glued inside the left tread well was for.
 
Again with the chisel, I'll spare you the blow by blow tedium 
 
http://i.imgur.com/leMuAGPl.jpg
 
It turns out for some reason the perpetrator cut through the sponson wall and then decided to slap a patch on it for whatever reason because the sponson would have covered the indiscretion. BTW I will be upgrading the boarding ladders on all my Baneblades to the most recent FW iteration which definitely looks better than the stepladder attached behind the sponsons on the original. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/YZ1eifRl.jpg
 
once all the styrene and green putty was removed the damage didn't look too bad; as I said the sponson will cover most of the hole.
 
The sponsons also have sustained malpractice and I may try a little project I've had in the back of my mind since I first restored a Baneblade almost ten years ago namely rotating sponson turrets. That should be fun.
 
http://i.imgur.com/2U09mwJl.jpg
 
So last image everything is cleaned ready for prime, Not bad for an hour's work. So counting this one I have four Shadowswords; quite too many to my mind.
 
I'm very tempted to make this Shadowsword a Chaos version to complement my two Chaos Warhounds 
 
 
http://i.imgur.com/F5hDADIl.jpg
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Behold Arethusa my first Baneblade from page one in her current condition; not much changed from the labor of love I devoted to her almost a decade ago but this post isn't about resting on my rapidly spreading laurels but to demonstrate how to put your Baneblade together so it can be repaired, upgraded, refurbished and in this case provide a bench mark to remodel the tread problem current on the last production run of the lamented FW resin Superheavies.............  


http://i.imgur.com/VTtp3S6l.jpg
 
First and most important Arethusa's major components are not glued but screwed together for rapid dis-assembly.
 
The Sponson Las-cannons, Main Turret, secondary Turret twin Bolters and treads are held in place with screws. Max Weisman is anchored with a screw pedestal.
 
http://i.imgur.com/TJIfgLsl.jpg
 
Note the tracks are removable with the unfastening of just one screw; this is the legacy of a lifetime of working with mechanical objects that through experience I know will ultimately fail and I planned accordingly. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/LsRKarTl.jpg
 
Everything I build has built in dis-assembly points to save me hours of grief and reconstruction time. Whether you choose to follow my manic behavior is up to you but you have been apprised of the consequences.
 
That said, let us begin to remedy the track length problem............ 
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Tracks and Tread Links:

 

Below are listed  the discrepancies I've found with the treads and tracks on the resin models and the first image deals with one builder's way to resolve the problem; he just added another track link.

 

Note that the top set of tracks indicated by the three red arrows point to the three standard links between the skull links..........

 

BTW note the link segments are pretty much the same between the older original model and the newer production model

 


http://i.imgur.com/e740W0Bl.jpg

 

and the lower set of tracks has an extra link between the skull links on one section.

 

Unfortunately FW does not sell these extra links anymore at least I couldn't find them on the FW site.

 

If you can find the links and the modification is satisfactory to you then your repair is easy; otherwise read on............

 

The next discrepancy I've found is the mount block thickness where the road wheels (bogies) mount on my original the road wheel bases mount 15.75 MM block thickness and the and the ones that fit the treads badly 16.30 MM block thickness. this means your tread must lose length negotiating the extra diameter. 

 

In the image below the red arrows indicate that extra thickness between the track assemblies shown in the first photo.

 


http://i.imgur.com/NGgjLGxl.jpg

 

The next image the arrows show the difference between the lengths of the tread assemblies, the thickness of the assemblies and the bad track run around the Drive and Idler wheels on the lower track assembly.

 


http://i.imgur.com/P4qxxtrl.jpg

 

Finally the road wheel mount blocks themselves vary in length making you tread run too short for the wheel base.

 


http://i.imgur.com/dqNz3bvl.jpg

 

Next we will address these issues with some simple remedies and a more complex remedy if former doesn't do the trick..........
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A Compulsive Psychological Problem:

 
Okay I wouldn't be the Blackadder if I didn't go for the more complex alternative first.
 
I seriouly doubted my fixes will do the job on the more serious discrepancies so I'll tackle that first.
 
The image below shows the discrepancy in the mount block where the one block is 2,0 - 3,0 MM longer than the other.
 
http://i.imgur.com/dqNz3bv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dqNz3bvl.jpg
 
So a razor saw blade is about 0.44 MM thick, cutting the block with a relatively sharp razor saw takes about a minute and it shortens the block about half a millimeter. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/Et8NuKEl.jpg
 
http://i.imgur.com/Vtv3ilwl.jpg
 
multiply that by seven cuts shorten the block 3,5 MM. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/9EhRrehl.jpg
 
Counting the glue seam gives you about 3,0 MM shortened just about what you will need to get the block down to where the treads will fit properly.
 
 http://i.imgur.com/fGwM5ttl.jpg
 
More to come.............
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muggs Battle-Brother

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I must say I thoroughly enjoy your threads, the methodical and well thought out approach you take is most inspiring. Are you an engineer by any chance?

 

Every now and then you do something that makes me go: Ah! I hadn't thought of that what an elegant solution!

Point in question the track length discrepancy above - I think I would have tried to adjust the tracks.

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I must say I thoroughly enjoy your threads, the methodical and well thought out approach you take is most inspiring. Are you an engineer by any chance?

Every now and then you do something that makes me go: Ah! I hadn't thought of that what an elegant solution!

Point in question the track length discrepancy above - I think I would have tried to adjust the tracks.

No not an engineer but I have studied engineering.

The problem is there is no way to adjust the track without shortening the circumference of track run. When tanks were first developed almost a hundred years ago the length of the ground contact was determined by the width of the average trench encountered on the battlefield. The Question was how big of a wheel would be needed to span the trench without falling into the trench. The answer was a radius of about thirty to forty feet which was impractical on a battle field until someone had the bright idea that the whole wheel was not necessary but only a segment of that wheel which allows the relatively low profile of tanks today.

Now since the segment is part of a circle pi enters into the equation. Without going it the math involved if the radius is too large for the treads to circle the hypothetical circumference the only way you can shorten the distance is to decrease the radius. The only way to decrease the radius is either shorten the wheel base block or shave down the road wheels drivers and idlers which would look odd with flat spots where the links contact the wheels. biggrin.png

Your patience is tremendous, I'm truly envious. I also like the martini in the background.

Keep it up!

Ah yes, finest kind...........Cheers. biggrin.png

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A Gap I Can Live With:

 

Okay so the tread from the Red Lucius Baneblade had these huge 6 MM gaps in the tread run. 

 
http://i.imgur.com/UFwm1eml.jpg 
 
I have repaired one by cutting the wheel mount block in four places with my scroll saw to shorten the block.
 
http://i.imgur.com/nUEgtW5l.jpg
 
 I made the cuts between the wheels that were separated the most so the spacing between the wheels is more homogeneous.
 
http://i.imgur.com/a9dKp0al.jpg
 
Since the alteration came out so well I feel I can endorse this method.
 
If you don't have a 'Scroll Saw' a 'Coping saw' will do as well or even a Hack saw will do in a pinch, the problem with a hack saw is the blade is thicker so you may not need as many cuts.
 
http://i.imgur.com/IIaitkyl.jpg
 
Someone asked me about getting the wheels lined up evenly so I came up with this idea; just a 6.3 MM styrene strip running down the channel between the road wheels and driver and idler wheels. HTH
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Track Work Final Assembly:

 
First a recap, I already showed how I shortened the wheel mount block; the image below shows the cuts I made in the block with my scroll saw.
 
In all I made six cuts in one block and eight cuts in the other each cut being about 0,80 MM wide so one block was shortened 4.8 MM and the other 6,4 MM.
 
I also cut off the rails (Indicated by the red arrows that the bogie mount pads are glued to to further reduce the length of the track run.
 
http://i.imgur.com/SBzFJZ0l.jpg
 
In the image below show more clearly the mount rails indicated by the up pointing arrows and the removed rails indicated by the down pointing arrows. Just to be clear I removed all 16 rails not just the two shown.
 
http://i.imgur.com/LI9cNokl.jpg
 
Below are the assembled tracks ready to be primed. I'll answer any questions regarding any of the preceding I did not make clear.
 
http://i.imgur.com/nnzliIwl.jpg
 
Below the Red Baneblade cleaned and primed with her refurbished tread assemblies. I will have to raise the hull about a millimeter to compensate for the removed bogie rails.
 
http://i.imgur.com/VI1Q4OCl.jpg
 
And another view of the restored model which looks pretty good considering the wreck I started with. IMHO 
 
http://i.imgur.com/AZGOqRTl.jpg
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  • 1 month later...
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Saving the Sentinels Part 1:

 

I've had these little beauties lying about for years with broken hip shafts. Whilst inventorying my 'to do' list I find myself with the sudden impulse to repair the little darlings.

 

They've been indifferently repaired over the years but fall apart again with alarming rapidity whilst the glue build up around the joints become more and more unsightly.

 

The first order of business was to separate and categorize all the major components.

 


http://i.imgur.com/soMy8IKl.jpg

 

There are two leg configurations; each Sentinel getting a compressed leg and an extended leg. Each type of leg can be either right or left.

 

First I cut off and drilled out the broken axles out of the legs; I start by drilling a centered pilot hole.

 

Next I drill out each leg to 1/8 inch (3,175 MM) as that is the closest diameter tube stock I have.

 


http://i.imgur.com/wwrbJIIl.jpg

 

Be careful not to drill through the axle end caps.

 

Next Post Please..............

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Saving the Sentinels Part 2:

 

Next center drill the hip block with first a pilot hole (Center foreground of the image below) and then your 1/8 inch drill bit.

 

I drilled from both ends into the hip block but then drilled all the way through to align the shaft holes.....

 


http://i.imgur.com/yIdtqL4l.jpg

 

On the right side of the photo above note the white styrene tube:

 

Insert your 1/8 inch styrene tube through the hip block so the axle protrudes far enough to engage the hip of the legs.

 

Now I don't want to repeat this repair so I am reinforcing the styrene tube with a 1,5 MM brass tube insert......

 


http://i.imgur.com/Rmi84kpl.jpg

 

Below we see the three Sentinel bodies strung out on the brass reinforced styrene tubes ready to be cut to the proper length.

 


http://i.imgur.com/IgXOeqgl.jpg

 

Below we see the three repaired hips; the left foreground legs not installed to show the reinforced shaft.

 


http://i.imgur.com/YoNsK2Tl.jpg

 

And finally the three derelicts assembled with new much stronger leg attachments.

 


http://i.imgur.com/eLTYGdql.jpg

 

Next, repairing the ball socket ankle joint........

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Saving the Sentinels Part 3:

 
Since the ankle is so much thinner I went to a 3/32 inch (2,25 MM) styrene tube to reinforce the break. Again I will insert a brass rod to increase the strength of the joint.
 
http://i.imgur.com/xOzi0lxl.jpg
 
drilling the hole in the ankle requires a bit of care as the short block is all you have to work with; drill too far and the shank strut will be weakened.
 
Insert the 3/32 styrene tube and the reinforcing wire into both the ball and the leg. 
 
http://i.imgur.com/viRPai4l.jpg
 
BTW I haven't glued anything yet as I want the option to pose the Sentinels on their respective bases before I do the finish gluing.
 
http://i.imgur.com/CqP41PPl.jpg
 
So here we have the restored leg stronger than ever with hardly a hint of the damage sustained.
 
http://i.imgur.com/cuC77ojl.jpg
 
And the reassembled model ready to be posed on its base.
 
http://i.imgur.com/RQIx4iWl.jpg
 

 
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