Attaching models to corks for priming and painting

[LongGone]

At the risk of showing my complete lack of experience in painting, I have a question for the audience. When painting models before complete assembly, what method are you guys using to attach them to corks? Is it just blue tack? Do you run the risk of ruining some of the tack by getting paint on it? Or are they super glued or pinned?

 

I know that seems like a trivial thing, but I'm trying to improve my dismal painting skills as much as possible in this return to the hobby. I'm talking abysmal skills here. I spent the last four days learning everything I could about just priming. I tried searching, but all I found was tutorials on cork bases... which is another thing I spent hours researching.

[Ripper.McGuirl]

Use a nice long pin that keeps the feet up off the cork itself. If you blue tack them down, you will end up having blank spots where the feet sink into the tack. A lot of people just use paper-clips, since they are cheap.

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

If I have a model glued to its base I'll attach it to a cork with blue tack (or a cheaper equivalent, check out your local poundland) yes it can ruin the tack a little, but I've had the same piece of tack one cork for months and still works fine.

 

If I haven't attached it to its base yet, I'll drill a hole (about 1 to 1.2mm in diameter, and about 5 to 6mm deep) into the foot of the model and super glue a bit of paper clip into it (use a long piece about, 40mm) then stick that into the cork.

[Phalanx Warder]

Use a nice long pin that keeps the feet up off the cork itself. If you blue tack them down, you will end up having blank spots where the feet sink into the tack. A lot of people just use paper-clips, since they are cheap.

This right here....

 

I drill a small hole in the bottom of the foot (no more than a couple of mm) stick some glue in there with your "pin". Once the glue sets stab it into the cork and you are ready to paint! I will also advise you when it comes to painting less is more, and something else that seems to be missing in the world is also a virtue in this hobby......... patience

[Disruptor_fe404]

I use either my fingers or blu-tac/white-tac/tac.

 

The blu-tac/white-tac/tac is pretty cheap, you really don't need much. And I only use it because it's steadier than my fingers. The monstrous, vile blob that you're left with at the end of a season of painting can be thrown away (or use to hold things down while you prime them). If i had a surgeon's hands, I wouldn't bother.

[Major_Gilbear]

I tend to find that bases get in the way of painting the lower parts of models (I have big hands and fingers which doesn't help either). Instead of faffing with corks and blue-tack, I use stainless steel hemostatic clamps.

Apologies for the non-sanctioned model in the pic below, but it's the only pic I have and we're looking at the clamps, okay?

http://i407.photobucket.com/albums/pp154/MajorGilbear/NomadAlguacil1a.jpg

http://0.tqn.com/d/dentistry/1/0/O/6/hemostats.jpg

These are basically like scissors with clamps instead of blades - also, they "click" shut when you close the clamps, and are realeased by squeezing the handles together again.

They come in two grades: medical (i.e. sterile) and non-medical (i.e. non-sterile). The medical-grade ones are extortionately-priced, so forget trying to buy them unless money is no object for you! The non-medical ones can be bought in lots of fishing tackle suppliers and hobby shops, and can also be found on ebay for cheap if you search around. If you know any local doctors or dentists, they might be able to sort some out for you for cheap (or free) as well.

These are great as they easily grip any pins you put into the model, and can be easily moved or removed as required. They are also stable when you place the model down to dry (so it doesn't tip over). They are stainless steel too, so they are easy to clean by whatever your preferred paint-stripping method is.

I even use these clamps to spray undercoat the models (wear a glove!) as well.

The bases I paint separately too, and then drill small holes in at the end; slot the model into the holes and trim the pins to suit. This is also a more secure way of fixing the model to its base than just sticking it to the top.

(One last comment though; if you're using actual corks, or some polystrene off-cuts, why not just push the pins directly into the cork/polystyrene? It'll only be good for a few models before you wear holes in them, but so what? Not very or expensive to come by some more for the next few models!)

[LongGone]

Thank you for the quick replies gents. This will help in the crusade to improve my skills.

[Fibonacci]

Since they will be pinned to a resin base anyway, I pin them to a cork to paint. Once it is painted I clip the extra length off and pin them to their base. Note the nickles glued to the bottom of the corks for support. That's a necessity when working with metal models.

[Fallen11]

I have question regarding painting with 'cork' . Do you find that it's worth to first paint parts, and then assemble model much better than assembling model,and then painting it? I always assembled models first and then painted them. But since I got airbrush,which sits in my corner for half year :p waiting for my collection to grow, dunno is it worth to paint all parts separately?

[Major_Gilbear]

I have question regarding painting with 'cork' . Do you find that it's worth to first paint parts, and then assemble model much better than assembling model,and then painting it? I always assembled models first and then painted them. But since I got airbrush,which sits in my corner for half year waiting for my collection to grow, dunno is it worth to paint all parts separately?

This depends a huge amount on each person's preferences, not least because there are advantages and disadvantages to both methods - best thing to do is try each way and see for yourself what you prefer! :)

Also, you can do an half-n-half approach: paint up to a certain point in peices, then assemble and finish the rest of the model as one peice. This works especially well for some armies like Space Marines where their chest eagle is a usually a large detail and in a contrasting colour to the rest of the model, but is obscured by the bolter. Also, any model with a banner or a bulky backpack is usually best painted with the banner/back pack part off, even if you integrate it into the model before the final touches.

[lhg033]

no idea in terms of how it affects airbrush painting but I tend to assemble a model as much as possible with out obscuring details (bolters across chest plates etc) and paint at this stage. be careful considering the direct of highlights on unassembled parts in reference to the rest of the model if you do this though.

 

I tend to paint bare heads separately too as they are such a different colour to the rest of the model plus they can contain a lot more finer details.

 

in regards to the corks discussion - I use a chunk of bluetac and an old hex pot for minis - never had a weight problem for metal minis either.