Painting yellow shoulder pads

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Do you guys have any recommendations for painting yellow shoulder pads? I followed a guide I find on the space wolves blog spot, however I think I'm doing something wrong. Maybe I am thinning my paints too much, if bubbles start showing up it's too thin right? There are pits from the paint not drying right as well as areas where you can still see the undercoat after 4 or 5 thin coats of base yellow, and about 4 more coats of layer yellow. I am using Averland Sunshade and Yriel yellow. 

[Rune_Priest_Rhapsody]

I usually prime my models white and when using yellow I base coat with a medium brown. From there I will put down 2 coats of my yellow base minimum. Keep working it, it's no secret that yellow is an absolute pain in the ass to paint!!

Best of Luck!!
 

End of Line

[WG Vrox]

Bubbling yellow paint, humm the only thing I can think of is there might be air in the brush.  Which means you might be putting too much of the brush into the paint. totally clean and dry your brush then try getting paint on your brush by dipping just the top quarter of your brush into the paint. Keeping as much of the back of the brush as clean as possible.  

 

You want your paint thin enough to lay down nice without being able to see brush strokes, but enough paint that you don't have to put 20 layers down to see the color yellow.  Starting with the brown base coat is good advice, unless you want a really bright yellow but make sure your base coat is completely dry before you start with the watered down yellow and don't try to do another layer of yellow till the first is dry.. 

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Thanks for the replies guys. I thought grey may have been a good base for the yellow, nice and neutral, I'll definitely try brown.

All guides I have read one thinning paint say if you have added so much thinner to the paint that small bubbles appear it's too thin and watery. The bubbles appear after I have added thinner and stirred the paint with my mixing brush.. which is dry. So definitely not coming from a damp brush. I was not making sure my coats were completely dry before adding more.. maybe that's my problem. I'll try to change that, THANKS!

[Growler67]

When layering paints, either additional coats or in gradual highlighting, it's always best to wait until the previous is dry before adding the next.  There are some very advanced techniques in subtle shading where you skip the logic and add the next while the previous is still slightly damp, but like I said....very advanced technique and NOT easy to master by any stretch.  Post pics when you can of your progress.

[TheDarkOne]

I do mine, primed dark brown, (sued to be scorched brown, don't know what the new paint line colors are off hand), then a layer of iyanden darksun foundation, then a very thin wash of snakebite leather to add the dark shading, then highlight the highest points with golden yellow, up to a mix of golden yellow and wwhite scar. turn out pretty decent. I'll post pics when I get home.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Ya, I would say I'm more of an intermediate level painter. I'll definitely wait till it's dry. It was more so me rushing things anyway.  I'll throw some pics up when I can of progress, what my old shoulder pads look like and once I finish the new ones, those too. Thanks guys!

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

I occasionally get bubbles (tiny ones) when I'm layering with thin paint. It's usually because my brush stroke is too fast. When I'm layering like that it's easy to start whacking on the paint after each layer is dry causing you to rush. Try slowing your stroke as well dude and let us know how you get on. :)

[BrotherJim]

what are you thinning your paints with brother?

 

just water wont work, you need some kind of medium.

 

flo-aid or Lathium medium (sp?) will do this... get a touch of medium, water, and your foundation paint.

 

it sounds like your paints are to thin bro.

 

even when base coating, imagine that every stroke counts. aim to only do each stroke once.

 

haha this has got me pumped for painting, keep at it bro!

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

I wouldn't pay GW prices for medium. I got some artists acrylic medium from The Works (if you're in the UK they are a cheap book store, 200ml for £4) its a tube of quite thick colourless paint basically. I mix it 1:1 with whichever color I need then thin to whatever consistency I require. I thinned black down to a very thin blacklining wash with zero problems yesterday this way.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

I think my post may have confused some. No bubbles show up when painting miniatures (or hardly do) The bubbles I am speaking of appear in the mixed paint. I agree though, I do think my paint is problem too thin. I have no gotten down my ratios for myself yet.

I like to use a mix of vallejo medium thinner (anybody notice vallejos paints have a minty smell to them?) along with water. The reason I use the water is it seems like the vallejo medium thinner causes the paints to dry out really quickly. A little splash of water normally gives me more time to work with the paint. Some paints take water better than others. My Army painter paint which I use for the layer separates really easily with water so I have to use much more medium thinner with it. GW's paints have responded pretty well so far. 

 

[WG Vrox]

I was messing around with an idea last night and it worked out pretty good, I call it the paint drying box, which turned out to be an easy way to help speed the drying process of paint.  This will only work if you have floor heating vents and if it's winterish. 

 

I  took two shoe boxes of the same size. I just went down to the a shoe store and asked they had a few. Make sure you get ones that the lids come off of, not the hinge type. Take the lid of one of the boxes and tape it to the bottom of the box. so the flat top of the lid is flush with the bottom of the box. 

 

I then drill a bunch of holes into the bottom of the box which of course went through both the bottom of the box and the top of the lid.

 

Drill more holes into the second lid, put your wet models inside put the lid on and set the whole thing on top of one of your house's floor vent, turn the heat on. 

[pedrogzc]

I paint my yelllow shoulderpads first with tausept ochre and then with iyanden darksun, both from the old citadel foundation paints. Imagine the equivalent new ones will work at least as good as old ones.

[Leif-thunderstand]

I took the fang over chaos black ( both as spray) and took averest then yiriel then averest again. (base layer base) that worked preety nice and took not much time and collor

[Red Wolf]

I've used flesh/skin color as a base for yellow for years, it seems to work quite well.

White seems to shine through to much and most other colors do the same, flesh seems to be neutral enough to get the yellow to just right.

[Romulas]

elf flesh & yellow ink used to be the trick, but i've since run out of yellow ink.

 

sunburst yellow seems to work in a pinch but i'll be running out of it soon as well...... fortunately the commission will be over soon.

 

way too much detail on the wolves...

[Seahawk]

Prime white + Casandora Yellow!

 

Easiest, quickest way to paint yellow anything and have it be awesome.

[Leif-thunderstand]

I dont like priming white... The yellow becomes to shiny in my opinion.

[Seahawk]

Well, if you use yellow paint then maybe, but the yellow wash is very, very flat.

 

Alternatively, just paint it white, then wash it.