sculpting chainmail loincloth

[Dobermann]

Hallo.

I was inspired by the latest FW model for the Iron Hands.

I like the idea of a chainmail loincloth instead of the leather one.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Images/FW/Events/preview-uk-2013/ihsquad2.jpg

 

I wish to add it to most of my veterans and officers.

 

I found several chainmail sculpting tutorial on the web and youtube.

But all were about sculpting chainmail on a rigid surface.

My problem is that the loincloth is between the legs, so I cannot press on it to make the mail rings.

 

Maybe I shoud first put a piece of greenstuff or pastic between the legs, and after (when it's well hard) add a sheet of greenstuff and make the holes to represent the chainmail.

 

Do you have any suggestion?

 

Thank you!

[Major_Gilbear]

HMaybe I shoud first put a piece of greenstuff or pastic between the legs, and after (when it's well hard) add a sheet of greenstuff and make the holes to represent the chainmail.

 

This. Either use a loincloth from another model as a base, a piece of plasticard, or a GS "blank".

 

You can also sculpt it on a surface (greased baking paper or such, although I use a plastic sandwich bag taped down to a tray) and then when cured you can pull it off and stick it on - maybe with a trim unless you have a template made that you can sculpt to.

 

If you sculpt your own, you can add little rolls of putty to the base first to simulate folds in the cloth, and then sculpt the chainmail over the whole lot to give it a look of movement.

 

Finally, you can get chainmail loincloths in some of the Chaos Space Marine kits (their regular marine squad has some I think), and on some of the WHFB kits (I think the Vampire Counts skellies or Grave Guard have some) - perhaps you can just bits-order them from a website/ebay?

[Major_Gilbear]

Hmm, looking through, I found these:

 

Chaos Space Marine Champion Torso

Chaos Space Marine Tank Gunner Torso

Chaos Terminator Legs

Chaos Terminator Lord Accessories

 

Turns out that the WHFB stuff I'd suggested wasn't really suitable though.

 

Anyway, I hope that either one of these parts or the DIY suggestions above helps! ;)

[BFeeder]

Sculpey makes a good surface, it won't dry unless it's heated so you can remove it after the greenstuff has dried.

[stinkenheim]

I use a blue tack lump between the legs (or whatever area I'm sculpting on) when making the initial shape for the loincloth/cloak.

Once the initial part is dry I then add folds and such like. Once it's finished I remove the blu tack.

Gives it a bit of body whilst sculpting and helps stop it deforming too much

[Olgerth Istaarn]

I'm with Major_Gilbear on this one, jack a Chaos loincloth and clean it up. Much quicker and easier than GS, unless you are awesome at sculpting.

[Zincite]

Chaos Terminator Lord Accessories

Just to note, those loincloths are too big to fit on a power armoured marine. They do make neat capes though.

[Major_Gilbear]

@  Zincite:

 

Or you can cut them in half and get enough for two models...

[Dobermann]

thank you for your answer. 

I didn't think of filling in temporary the gap with FIMO or Bluetack and then sculpt greenstuff over it. 

 

How can I make sure that grennstuff does not stick (or attack) on it?

 

 

About Chaos components: maybe I can find one, make it "loyalist" enough, and make a mould for several copies in resin.

[stinkenheim]

Once the greenstuff is cured you just pull the blu tack away, sometimes little pieces stay attached but I just dab at these with a piece of blue tack and they all come off quite quickly.

Never had a problem with it getting stuck into the GS and I do all my wolf cloaks, tabards, capes etc like that.

[Guest Addidevom]

What necessary words... super, a magnificent phrase е

[Hemal]

Sculpting chainmail is a little tricky but can be done quite nicely.  You need to have uncured but not ultrasoft GS as you are relying on the natural plasticity of thw material to try and move back into its original shape.  I use a dental tool and pull the holes down then up alternately across the line.

A bit like this

^V^V^V

 

I repeat this on the layer below, but a little closer than in the diagram...

^V^V^V^

^V^V^V^

^V^V^V^

 

The key is that the links need to look like they are overlapping to a certain extent..