Olgerth Istaarn Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Now I'm no good at sculpting, and will never be any good, but it doesn't mean I won't keep trying... One thing that has vexed me for the longest time is the ability of the advanced sculptors to get the GS surfaces they sculpt perfectly smooth and somehow even shiny. Now, I know the basics (work with wet tools to prevent sticking, etc), but I've never been able to create any kind of GS surface that is perfectly smooth. I can't seem to find a fitting example, but if you've ever seen a properly sculpted DIY mini or a part of a mini, you know what I'm talking about. Does anyone know how it's done? How do you get GS so perfectly smooth? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 One of the biggest steps is waiting. Get the basic shape in the place that you want it then leave it to cure for an hr or so (this is mildly affected by your blue/yellow ratio). After it's cured for an hour is so, using your clay shaper....make sure your using clay shapers, they're a god-send.....work at smoothing the GS some more, because it's started curing you can apply a little more pressure. Cheers, Jono Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533154 Share on other sites More sharing options...
nurglespuss Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Yep, using rubber sculpting tools is the key, that and good quality greenstuff and plenty of water. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533253 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 And I forgot to mention, if you get your GS in the side-by-side strips, cut out the little bit of blue/yellow that has already mixed a little in the middle and toss it, it will never smooth properly as it has cured a bit. Cheers, Jono Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533267 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olgerth Istaarn Posted November 28, 2013 Author Share Posted November 28, 2013 You know, I've never thought about working with semicured GS. That's brilliant. What's my best bet to get small rubber sculpting tools? All I've got for small scale sculpts are the metal ones. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533313 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 Amazon? You want the black-tip ones here. The white tips are the softest, grey are intermediate, and black are firm. I find firm (black) to be the most useful. Many online art stores as well as brick-n-mortar stores carry them, so perhaps look around for a good deal on some. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533327 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dam13n Posted November 28, 2013 Share Posted November 28, 2013 If you are after nice smooth armour surfaces, try mixing some Milliput in with the Green Stuff. Then follow much of the above advice. The Milliput mix dries harder than just Green Stuff on its own, making it easier to sand smooth even after it's completely dry. It also prevents the corners from rounding off so much, as Green stuff naturally contracts as it dries, which unfortunately pulls nice sharp corners into more rounded edges. The Green Stuff itself helps remove the big drawbacks of Milliput on it's own - it adds elasticity, which makes the mix much easier to keep together as you work it, and stickiness, which makes it easier to attach to a surface without applying too much pressure (and squashing the putty everywhere). It also allows more control as you have a greater array of mixes that are possible with 4 different starting substances than you could ever manage with just the 2 you get with each type of putty on its own. Nowadays I sculpt armour with a roughly 70:30 mix of Milliput to Green Stuff, and it gives much nicer results than I ever managed with just Green Stuff on it's own. (Also Milliput is cheap as anything, whilst Green Stuff (from GW at least) isn't.) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533377 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Green stuff naturally contracts as it dries Actually, it expands! If you want a putty that's like GS but without the chewing gum texture to it, try ProCreate from Kraftmark - I find it a *lot* easier to work with, and it doesn't expand as it cures like GS does. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533399 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moonstalker Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Magic Sculp or Milliput mixed with GS. You can start with 50/50 of each, but you might want to experiment with the ratio of the two (as well as the ratio of the two parts of each when you mix them). It'll change working and cure times, as well as the final hardness (from the Milliput or Magic Sculp) vs elasticity (from the GS). Color Shapers are also ideal. You can buy the packs of them, but you can get by with just one or two(flat chisel, firm, size 2 and size 0. if you aren't doing a lot of detail work, you can get by with a size 2). Using milliput in the mix makes the GS a lot harder, and it'll take to sanding a lot better. So if you end up with a fingerprint or something on it, you can take a really fine file to it and get it off once it's cured. The surface will be smooth, but it probably won't be shiny after you start sanding on it. If you keep the files fine enough, though, that won't be an issue. You could work in just MS/Milliput if you want, but the GS will make it a bit more resistant to cracking, shattering, etc since it'll stay slightly bendy when cured. Milliput or Magic Sculp is really just up to what's available in your area. Magic Sculp used to be really hard to get in the states (I used to be able to only find it from an importer on eBay, it's a UK thing). But now they're both available pretty easy on Amazon. If you get your GS from GW directly, cut out the center strip and throw it away, and store the blue and yellow seperately. That center strip, right where they meet, is already cured, and if you use it in your mix you're going to get lumps that won't smooth out no matter how much you work it. And then once you use that up, stop buying GS from GW. You can get 100g from GF9 for 20 bucks instead of 20g for 10 bucks from GW. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533461 Share on other sites More sharing options...
The_Chaplain Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 A lot of sculpting videos for green stuff suggest keeping the surface you're working on wet, and swear by greasing the green stuff and your fingers with Vaseline, to keep it moist, and off your fingers! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533500 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarriorFish Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 Excellent advice above, but I'll add you don't need the fancy tools but they do help. I've been able to get smooth GS with metal sculpting tools easily enough, just make sure to always use water and be gentle and you'll get the result you want :) I think patience is the most important thing, with it you don't have to be talented to get good results as long as you're willing to take your time. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533580 Share on other sites More sharing options...
lfhoule Posted November 29, 2013 Share Posted November 29, 2013 And I forgot to mention, if you get your GS in the side-by-side strips, cut out the little bit of blue/yellow that has already mixed a little in the middle and toss it, it will never smooth properly as it has cured a bit. Cheers, Jono With all the time that I have used the side-by-side GS, this is honestly the first time that I've seen anyone mention this. It explains where that bit of harden material comes from that I have to pop out of each batch of GS I mix (and use it as a stone or something). I need to remember this... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3533798 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fibonacci Posted December 2, 2013 Share Posted December 2, 2013 I can't seem to find a fitting example, but if you've ever seen a properly sculpted DIY mini or a part of a mini, you know what I'm talking about. http://fc09.deviantart.net/fs36/i/2008/260/7/a/Canoness_Green____by_Djartistknight.jpg You mean like that? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/283917-shiney-and-smooth-greenstuff-how/#findComment-3535649 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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