Drill Pieces

[Balthamal]

Howdy all I require some sage words of wisdom from the assembled frater.

 

I've bitten the bullet and bought some magnets as I want to have some interchangeable sternguards. The problem I'm having is finding drill pieces the correct size for them. Even google and ebay have let me down by showing the wrong sizes. What I'm looking for is a 2mm x 1mm and a 3mm x 2mm piece, preferably fit for pin vices.

 

Any ideas or pearls of wisdom would be mightily appreciated

[Fibonacci]

By drill pieces, do you mean bits?

I would just pick up a 2mm bit and a 3mm bit at the hardware store. Drill as deep as you need and push the magnet in place.

[infyrana]

2mm x 1mm drill bits?

 

I've just recently bought some for drilling slate, gonna test them out and see how quick I blunt them, but I bought 1mm drill bit and a 1.5mm drill bit.  As they are drill bits, they have thicknesses, but no width or depths so to speak, so only one number is required.  Although there is a length, that's only really needed if you need to drill deeper into an item - and we don't.

 

Here's the written label for you to google up (bought these from axminster.co.uk - hope the weblink doesn't break any rules?).

 

Cobalt HSS Drill Bit - 1mm Dia x 34mm length - 400156

 

I know for a fact the store does all sorts of drill bits and all sizes, so just find that one listed and it'll lead on to the other sizes (though the site might use drop down menus for the sizes, so just search the name or ref no).

 

They also did a variety of pin vices which compared to the hobbies named brand, were cheap and more solid, the smallest fits the 1mm, and the larger ones fit I'd say up and around 5mm+.

 

Pin Vise set of 4 pcs - ord no. 800413

 

Hope this helps.

[Balthamal]

That does indeed help :) The only ones I was finding were around 8-9mm or for the hobby specific ones 1.5mm

[infyrana]

Just remember that this small, then can and will go through the soft flesh of your fingers like warm knife through butter, and in addition - they also do snap.  So remember, do NOT press too hard (if that's what you need to do, it's blunt), do not put lateral pressure on the bit, and remember where ever you are pushing - make sure your fingers are not in line of fire so to speak :D

 

Glad to help!

[JeffTibbetts]

Just remember that this small, then can and will go through the soft flesh of your fingers like warm knife through butter, and in addition - they also do snap. So remember, do NOT press too hard (if that's what you need to do, it's blunt), do not put lateral pressure on the bit, and remember where ever you are pushing - make sure your fingers are not in line of fire so to speak

Glad to help!

That's a true story, folks. Hurts a lot more than a hobby knife blade, as it cuts a much more ragged hole.

Side note: My dad once drilled right through the palm his hand with a power drill. Came out the other side even. He nicked a nerve and is still numb in one of his fingers.

[Bryan Blaire]

One way to mark the depth for drilling if you need the same depth repeatedly is to measure the depth with a ruler along the length of the bit and mark the depth with a piece of blue masking tape wrapped around the bit itself. This has served me well in both wood-working and drilling holes in miniatures. Maybe it can help. :)

[JeffTibbetts]

One way to mark the depth for drilling if you need the same depth repeatedly is to measure the depth with a ruler along the length of the bit and mark the depth with a piece of blue masking tape wrapped around the bit itself. This has served me well in both wood-working and drilling holes in miniatures. Maybe it can help.

I used to do that too, but then I realized it was moving up the blade little by little. The stickiness wasn't enough to keep it in place. Now I use a stripe of the GF's nail polish for proper magnet depth. Works great! I also color coded a couple of bits for bolter barrels so they'd be easy to pick out. Who knew that stuff was useful?

[Bryan Blaire]

Very nice. I may have to look into the wife's "beauty box" thing for some polish. Haven't had the riding up issue personally, but I could see it happening, probably more on smaller stuff than 1/4" bits for wood.

[JeffTibbetts]

Yeah. I think maybe part of the problem was that I had it wrapped around the tiny lil bit about three or four times. The tape was a pretty solid ring. So, when I drilled in if I didn't stop early enough, the tape would push against the model and there was nothing for it to grip in that direction. I only noticed because I could feel the sticky reside on the front of the bit. It was a bit weird. 

[Forté]

Main ones I used for weapons, exhausts, magnet holes and for pinning are 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2 & 3mm. You can usually find little sets or get them from eBay. With the really small ones you have to let the bit do the work and not apply too much pressure. It hurts when they go into your hand.

[The_Chaplain]

Go to your local hardware store (whatever your major retail chains are, over here in america it's home depot and lowes) and ask/look for a drill bit set: they vary from about 1/16 of an inch to 1/4 of an ich in size, all lined up in one handy storage container.  I got my hands on a set for about $4 USD because they are priced for xmas gifts for the handyman in your family.

 

 Drill a hole with your GW pin vice (1/32 of an inch) as a pilot hole, and then work your way up with the other drill bits.

 

++EDIT++ oh crap you all use metric system, one second++

 

1/32 = 1.16mm

1/16= 1.58mm

1/4 = 6.35 mm

 

(The handy thing about these sets is, if you lose one- they are labelled on the base so you know which one to replace)

[Seleucus]

I find a set like this top one:

 

http://www.hobbytools-direct.com/acatalog/Drill_Bit_Sets.html

 

is very useful.

 

However, most model railway shops/websites, such as The Engine Shed/Guagemaster have a fantastic range of tools and accessories:

 

http://www.gaugemaster.com/search_results.asp?searchstring=drill&searchtitle=search%20results%20%20>%20drill&andor=view&method=kws&style=main&strtype=&currentpage=4#4

 

Don't worry about the note saying this item is out of stock, they are great at getting things quickly.

[Balthamal]

Big thanks for all the info herein, it's been most helpful :)

[Shadespyre]

One thing to add - you get what you pay for with drill bits! I buy a lot of cheap (chinese) ones and they do one job (if you are lucky) and then I throw them away. Particularly true if you do any work with metals still. As others have said, if you have to put any real pressure on a drill to get it to cut, it's not sharp enough. And apart from holes in your hands, if the drill bit snaps off in a 1mm hole in a 2mm part and you can't get it out, that's your model ruined.

[elmo]

I use titanium HSS drill bits as these are good for metal, resin and plastics. Sizes 1, 2, 2.5 and 3 mm. I use a variable speed electric hobby drill similar to a Dremel for all my drilling and engraving. It was money well spent.

 

Shell out for good bits rather than cheap ones. They do not cost too much and the results and life span is far better.

It is worth having spare 1mm bits as these do break easily and it always happens when you are in a rush to finish and the shops are shut ;)

[irwit]

that place looks quite expensive compared to ebay and amazon.  I got my hobby drill and a set of drill bits for like £10 on ebay and amazon

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

I got a set of bits from ebay for £11 or £12 for like 150 bits or something, from .4mm to 3.2mm dia. THEY ARE CRAP. But they get the job done. One or two of my 2mm drills had lopsided cutting edges, and would pull away from the centre, but you get 8 of them so I had plenty spare. You do get what you pay for as has been said, but having a shed load of spares (even if they're cack) is handy

[Forté]

Tis the same with most modeling items. You get what you pay for. Bits, brushes, the lot.