Rune Priest Ridcully Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 So I went under the tutorials but that is not working, so can anyone tell me how to get the Transfers to actually work? They are fine on large flat surfaces, but just don't work at all on marines shoulder pads. Has anyone got them to work on them? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seleucus Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 This might help: The solutions he is using are a must for getting transfers on anything that is not flat. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558267 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grotsmasha Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I recommend looking into Microset and Microsol, they're two chemicals that work in stages to make decals a cinch. Cheers, Jono Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558268 Share on other sites More sharing options...
deathspectersgt7 Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 What Grotamasha said they work well on decals.Only had one decal that did not want to cooperate out of 500. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558279 Share on other sites More sharing options...
MajorKhaos Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Some decals are still not very good with Sol and Set though. Round ones like the Imperial Fists transfers are horrible to get right on Marine sholder pads. You end up spending quite a stages to get it right. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558288 Share on other sites More sharing options...
relicblade Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 So there really is no way to get decals to stick finely on broad, curved surfaces? Bummer. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558296 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rune Priest Ridcully Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Makes you wonder why they include the transfers in the box in the first place if they require a further product (surprised GW don't do anything like that, thought they would:P) Are local hobby shops likely to stick them? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558311 Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Yes, decent model shops will sell Microsol / microset. Phone first though. Takes time to get it right, solutions are not an instant fix. Remember - decals are NOT faster. They are more accurate. That's what they're for. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558327 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peredyne Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 My experience with the GW decals hasn't been bad. I put a gloss coat down first. After it's dried solid (24 hours), I start applying the transfers. Soak the decals as normal, apply a layer of the Microsol and place the decal and get it straight. Tamp it down with soft cloth or tissue, then apply the Microset. The decals will soften and attach nicely. Then I put flatcoat over it and it looks like it's painted on. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558336 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gurth Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Soak the decals as normal, apply a layer of the Microsol and place the decal and get it straight. Tamp it down with soft cloth or tissue, then apply the Microset.The instructions on the bottle have it the other way around: apply Micro Set first where the decal will go, then Micro Sol over it once it’s in place. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558347 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.k.i.t.t.l.e Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I read somewhere that the setting solutions are basically vinegar and to just buy white vinegar instead. I tried it on my old DA and I thought it worked well. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558477 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadespyre Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 On a related note, if I print my decals on a laser printer (onto laser printer decal sheets of course!) do I still need to gloss varnish them before putting them in water? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558518 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 GW recommend using their Lamian Medium but from what I hear the stuff listed above works really well. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558547 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kierdale Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 I've used GW's varnish on areas where I'll put on a decal, then Lamian Medium afterwards to get rid of the glossiness (both of the decal and the surrounding area from the varnish) and a couple of coats of Lamian have taken off the gloss nicely. It worked very well for me, however I have not yet used this method to apply decals to a rounded PA shoulder pad. I've heard of strategic cuts to allow the decal to fit the curve...? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558612 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaedes Nex Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 There are a lot of guides on the Internet. Emperor knows I read and tried them all. From cutting slits in the decal to let it conform, to doing all sorts of stuff. Here's the no-nonsense guaranteed to work minimum BS guide. What you need: - Water - Microsol - Gloss varnish People say you need a hobby knife or Microset or whatever. They're wrong. What you need is just Microsol, a gloss varnish, and lots of time and patience. Step 1: Gloss the shoulder pad. Higher gloss is better. Pledge floor polish is great for this and is a common gloss and thinning product used by airbrushers. It is extremely high sheen and gloss. Regular acrylic gloss works just fine. I did it with two coats of 'Ard Coat thinned with water and it worked. Step 2: Soak decal in water. Step 3: Apply decal to shoulder pad. Step 4: Lightly brush Microsol on the decal while it is still wet with water. When it is dry after a few hours, brush another coat. Each subsequent coat takes less time to dry. The first coat takes the longest because it will do the shrivel and smoothing effect. Repeat this step 10+ times. It took me 2 or 3 days doing about 5 coats a day, one coat every hour. The edges will eventually smooth themselves out without needing to take a knife to them or using Microset which is completely unrequired. Step 5: Gloss over the completely conformed shoulder pad decal to seal it in. You're done. You'll probably need to satin or matte the shoulder pad to kill the gloss but this should have been materials and steps you do in normal painting to begin with. This is what I wish people had told me instead of using a knife or using Microset or whatever since my early decals still have some wrinkles and creases that didn't get fixed, and some got ripped. All it takes is a machine-like persistence and lots of patience. If you still think this doesn't work, you simply haven't put enough Microsol on. Keep doing it. 25+ coats if you have to. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558666 Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterdyne Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 On a related note, if I print my decals on a laser printer (onto laser printer decal sheets of course!) do I still need to gloss varnish them before putting them in water? Ideally, yes, you should still gloss. It's also good practice not to immerse the decal anyway (I use a wet palette to damp the backing paper). This moistens the adhesive layer without washing it away. You're also not going to see your decal float off into the water. Laser printed decal are more robust WHEN FLAT. If you're applying to a flat surface, you can get away without sealing the decals (to the film) a lot of the time. So long as you're not rubbing the decal on hard, you should be fine. However, the toner is inflexible compared to the decal film. This means if you're putting it over a corner, you can expect the design to crack and it can flake off the film a bit. Inkjet prints tend to be more flexible, but as you're aware, need sealing so you don't end up re-wetting the ink on them when you're applying them. I normally seal my decals (onto the decal paper) with a couple of light coats of klear / future. Seems to do the job fine, but multiple applications of microsol (the stronger solution of the 2) can erode the varnish, so make sure you let each application dry before poking about at it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3558885 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadespyre Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Useful, thanks. I was thinking of getting laser-compatible paper and printing them out at work, but sounds like I might be better off using a good quality inkjet instead! To be honest I can see me trying both, but it's good to know the pitfalls before you start! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3559143 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted January 2, 2014 Share Posted January 2, 2014 Heavy coat of varnish on the printed decals. (or several light coats) I mist coated a page by accident and the ink just came right up. For putting transfers on shoulders, make a few cuts in the actual printed part of the decal with a fresh hobby knife blade to let the bits around the edges actually lap over each other instead of bubbling up. For round symbols this is a bit of a wagon wheel pattern and for winged symbols a pair of cuts at the top between the wings and central symbol, (sword for me or blood drop for others) will relieve the bubbly bit. Then use the microsol.... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3559157 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rune Priest Ridcully Posted January 5, 2014 Author Share Posted January 5, 2014 Will try and grab some then. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/285134-applying-transfers/#findComment-3561144 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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