From the Lair : Star Phantoms

[Lord Marshal Ragnrok]

they are indeed looking good! i too get distracted by too many ideas - cheers to our problem! i also agree with your view on termi helmets, the knight ones are so much better

[YoungWolf7]

Thanks. :)

 

I've always wanted an airbrush, but the cost a good one along with all of the ancillary items needed (compressor, spray booth, etc.) has always been prohibitive. I have an old single action that a friend donated to me years ago but I have no idea if it even works. I think I'll focus on one skill set at a time.

[Lord Marshal Ragnrok]

i just use microscopic modeling brushes. the brush tip is as small as the lead in a mechanical pencil...

[YoungWolf7]

You might want to try bigger brushes. My preferred brush is a Windsor Newton Series 7 #1 (full size). My basecoat brush is a #2 and my detail bush is a #0. They hold really great points, and with the large body hold considerably more paint in the bristles so you don't get paint drying in the brush all of the time.

[Lord Marshal Ragnrok]

eh i prefer the smaller brushes for the level of detail i can get. i dont really have a steady hand so it helps. it does take forever but meh.  my brushes are old, but in good condition, i think they are Testors brand.

[YoungWolf7]

This is reposted from my website. If anyone is interested in seeing more of what I've worked on in the past follow the link.


http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/StarPhantomIcon.jpg



Why the Star Phantoms?
After reading the Badab War books from Forge World, I became more and more intrigued by this fringe chapter. The allusion that they may be Dark
Angel successors didn't hurt either, as my Punishing Angels chapter was very similar. In the end, I think having an established framework won out for me. My Phantoms won't be 100% canon, but they will be close enough to avoid complaints from all but the most staunch purists. Since I tend not to associate with those folks, I should be just fine.

With the allegations that the Star Phantoms are Dark Angels successors, I will be using the new Dark Angels codex for my First and Second companies (Mortiswing and Wraithwing respectively.) Since I was building around the old DA codex this isn't any stretch for my existing models. Any retooling would have had to happen anyway, so now is the time to switch it up. For more detailed information on the Star Phantoms, you might want to visit the Lexicanum entry for them.


Basic Guidelines

• No marks of armor older than Mark 7
  - I realize that the "retro" marks of armor are in vogue these days. Forge World is trying to push their resin crack with their "30K" line. The thing is, I don't like the older stuff. It looks clunky and I don't get the pre-Heresy fan base at all. If you like it, more power to you. It's just not for me. I'll be using all Mark 7 armor, possibly Mark 8 on occasion. The only possible exception is the older "rimmed" pauldrons. Many of the images from the Imperial Armour books show one or both and I do like that look.
  My reasoning for only new armor is that the Phantoms are rebuilding after their horrific losses in the Badab War. The forgeworld of Angstrom is practically right next door to help resupply with new weapons and armor. With their new role as the protectors of the Maelstrom, it would be in Angstrom's best interest to be on good terms with the Phantoms.
• No bare heads
  - I think it is silly that GW (and other manufacturers) model their big
  leaders with bare heads while wearing full armor. Might as well draw a
  bullseye on that forehead, Shoot here please!
• No aquilas
  - What's an aquila? It's the 2-headed eagle on the chest and equipment that GW borrowed from the Roman Legions.
  This gets trickier as it limits the number of parts unless I start filing them off. I have been using the Mark 7 torso fronts with the
  small single skull on the front for all power armor models, unless it is covered by a robe.
• Ammo pouches
  - wherever possible, I will add ammo pouches to the model, including terminators. Gotta carry multiple magazines somewhere.
• Sidearms
  - virtually every model has a backup weapon (bolt pistol, etc.) listed in its entry. I'll be adding those to the models for true WYSIWYG when possible.

The Look
I've scanned images of the entries in Imperial Armour 10. All images are copyright Games Workshop & Forge World. I'm merely showing them here for reference and to help to explain what I'm after. No challenge to the copyright is intended.

Power Armor
Obviously I won't be using the Mark 6 armor, but I included the image to show what it looks like with both pauldrons of the "rimmed" variety. I also find it interesting that they showed the assault trooper with both pauldrons in black, while the rest are white. The breech cloths are a must for me and I've begun sculpting them on all power armor models. I'll be playing around with the black panel placement, but I'm partial to the assault trooper's layout. The one thing that i am not a fan of is the red lenses. I will most likely use a light blue for mine.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Assault-100x150.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Sergeant-101x150.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Mk6-100x150.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Mk7-1-102x150.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Mk7-2-93x150.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Mk7-3-100x150.jpg

Weapons
I really dig the black casings with the white stripes. Much more interesting than what you usually see. The deep red really sets off the plasma weapons as well. Since I'll be fielding a lot of those that will be a nice additional accent color to the army.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Weapons-150x99.jpg http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Plasma-Cannon-150x97.jpg


Tactical Dreadnought Armor
AKA Terminator armor. There was only one image in the whole book. The black helmet gives a nice focal point, but I'm not certain it will work with my vision. I'm toying with white skull markings on black helmets for the Deathwing Knights.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Terminator-99x150.jpg


Dreadnoughts
Again only one image, but it does show color placement. It's a Mark 4 dread, which I'm not a fan of personally, but it is a good reference. I haven't decided whether to mod my Mark 5 dreads to have helmets/heads showing like so many "venerable" dread conversions out there.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Dread-150x150.jpg


Landspeeders
It's nice that the sample is a Tempest. I'm seriously tempted to enclose all of my 'speeders. I created a conversion for Sammael which is enclosed and I like it so much better. Anyway, it's all white with black markings in contrast to the other vehicles. Extrapolating this out to bikes for the Wraithwing will be a good exercise.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Speeder-150x76.jpg


Rhinos
Pretty much a half and half scheme here. This will be fun to paint.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Rhino-150x83.jpg


Land Raiders
Now we're down to an all black scheme, which I really like. It was this image that really got me thinking about how close the Star Phantoms were to my planned Punishing Angels. It seems the larger the vehicle, the more black paint it needs. I do find it interesting that the lascannon muzzle tips are not red like the plasma weapons. I will probably change that to add a little interest there.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Land-Raider-150x78.jpg

More to come as I move along.

[YoungWolf7]

White Testing
As the Star Phantoms scheme is predominately white, I need to figure out a good white build that is easy to paint and easy to replicate consistently. For reference, there are some samples from Forge World up above.

I know many people are afraid of white schemes, but I find them fun. I usually see one of two or three big mistakes when attempting a white scheme:

1. Trying to start out with white over black primer. This is just asking for a migraine. although it can be done, (I've done it quite often myself) you have to start with an intermediate color, like a bone, tan, or gray with good coverage and work up from there.
2. Starting with white and working "down" to the shadows. This pretty much goes hand in hand with #1. If this is your method and it works for you, keep at it. For most folks though, this is an exercise in frustration as it is the opposite of the method that most people learn to paint: base / shade / highlight. If you start with white, there is nowhere to go "up" with your highlights. You have: highlight / base / shade where highlight and base are the same thing.
3. Starting off with a base color that is too far from white. Similar to #1, but assumes you're using the standard base / shade / highlight. If your base is too dark, then your shading color has to be even darker and it just won't ever look like "white".
4. (Bonus) Mixing color casts or temperatures. For example, a "cool" shade with a "warm" base. Although you can get some really interesting effects by playing around this way, odds are that if you're reading this you may not be comfortable with painting white so it would be best to stick to the basics.

With that out of the way, here's what I have planned. I'm painting 8 (mostly) identical minis with 8 different base colors and working them up to pure white. I find starting with the shade and working the progression up to the white highlights is the most logical method in large areas. You may not, but bear with me.

White Test #1
For the first marine, I'm starting with a base of P3 Underbelly Blue. This will yield a nice "cool" white in the end and is my most likely candidate.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #2
For the second marine, I'm starting with a base of P3 Menoth White Base. This color was designed specifically for Privateer's Menoth faction and yields a nice "warm" white. Although I'm leaning towards a "cool" or neutral white for the Phantoms, I have other things planned for later.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #3
The third marine has received a base of P3 Frostbite. The lighting is blowing the picture out a bit, but it is there. This is likely too light as a shade on it's own. I used to shade it for my Legion of Everblight models.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #4
The fourth marine has a base of P3 'Thrall Flesh. This is one of my favorite colors as I used to paint a lot of undead models. It's a nice sickly greenish tan that can be used in a variety of ways. I'm excited to see how this turns out as it could be great for a Death Guard scheme.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #5
The fifth marine has a base of P3 'Jack Bone. A bit darker bone color than your typical GW Bleached Bone (or whatever they call it these days) but I really like it for the same reasons as 'Thrall Flesh. I've used it many times (this is my second pot) and I know what it will do. If I were to ever paint a classic Deathwing army scheme this would be my go to paint.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #6
Marine #6 has a base of P3 Trollblood Highlight. This color is outside of my normal palette, so I have no idea how it will end up. That's what experiments are for!

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #7
Marine #7 has a base of P3 Cryx Bane Highlight. Like #4 and #5, I've used this color a lot, but usually not for it's intended purpose. This might be a bit dark to start with, but again, testing has to have outliers to find your best range.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage01-112x150.jpg

White Test #8
Last, but not least, marine #8 has a base of P3 Ironhull Grey. This is definitely darker than I would normally start with, but Ironhull is a nice neutral gray, so it will serve to test a good neutral gray.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage01-112x150.jpg

Overall I'm pretty pleased. Over 5 years away from the brushes has definitely diminished my skills, but nothing that can't be remedied with practice. Being off the caffeine helps too. My hands don't tremble as much as I remember. We'll see when I get down to painting eyes...

As it looks like my backdrops might take a while I muddled about with my new photo setup. Still tuning the lights, white balance, etc., so forgive the poor pics. But hey, it's paint on minis! I know there are mold lines and such. I picked these up in a trade for the express purpose of testing paint schemes. The previous owner seems to have twisted most of them off the sprues and cemented them together. Not having the distraction of prep allowed me to get right to priming and paint.

[Urauloth]

I love Star Phantoms and I'm really looking forward to this.

 

I wondered for a second about the "no aquilas" thing but there really aren't any anywhere on the Star Phantoms in IA, are there? Just winged skulls. I knew that was a strong tendency but I hadn't actually noticed that it was exclusive like that before. Nice.

[Marius Perdo]

This looks like a well conceived and planned project. Looking forward to this.

[reckoning]

Very cool project. Eagerly awaiting more.

[YoungWolf7]

Thanks all. I'm slowly working away on these tests before I get to the "real" test models.

A Kivit Ghost - the no aquilas is personal preference, although they aren't shown in IA. I want to explore the "unique funerary rites" mentioned in IA, and part of that is (to me) that the 'Phantoms worship the Emperor as a corpse-god (just like the traitors accuse!), not as a divine being. If he wasn't dead, he wouldn't be worth their attention. Also as they have been on the fringes of known space for so long, who knows what quirks they might have developed? I have a few in mind...

This round took much longer than the first. The first couple of marines took over 45 minutes each for this stage. Towards the end I was able to get the time down around 30 minutes. Still very long if I’m ever going to paint an entire company, let alone a chapter. If you missed part 1, it’s here.

Overall notes: All models received a layer of their base color mixed with P3 Morrow White in a 2:1 ratio. (2 parts base color to 1 part Morrow White.)

White Test #1 – P3 Underbelly Blue

Still my overall front-runner for the Star Phantoms, although it reminds me of Crest toothpaste at this point.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #2 – P3 Menoth White Base

Nice warm white, as expected.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #3 – P3 Frostbite

My current runner-up. An ideal base would be 1:1 Underbelly Blue:Frostbite. I may have to premix two fresh bottles to use as a basecoat.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #4 – P3 ‘Thrall Flesh

I like where this is going for a Death Guard scheme.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #5 – P3 ‘Jack Bone

Still my favorite bone color. I like the helmet on this marine, but hate the leg greaves.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #6 – P3 Trollblood Highlight

This is starting to show why starting too dark is frustrating. I had to paint this layer twice, once to block in the highlights and the second to try and smooth out the transitions. The camera is unforgiving as expected.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #7 – P3 Cryx Bane Highlight

Again, really too dark to start with. This highlight color layer would have been better as a base color.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage02-112x150.jpg

White Test #8 – P3 Ironhull Grey

This one is really pushing the boundaries of my patience. Two passes to highlight again, and it still looks pretty rough. I had to make myself quit as these are only test models and I know I won’t be using this, except maybe for the bases…

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage02-112x150.jpg

So the testing continues. I was able to get in some two-brush blending and remind myself why that slows me down. The stroke is coming back to me though. Two more layers to go!

[YoungWolf7]

I'll bet you thought I disappeared again, didn't you? Had a busy couple of weeks, but I did manage to squeeze in round 3 on the white paint tests. For Father's Day I requested new lights for my photo booth and I'm quite happy with them. Far brighter and more consistent than my old ones. White balance helped, but I'll need to dial back the exposure setting on the camera a tad to compensate. Enough prattling...

Overall notes: All miniatures received a highlight layer of 2:1 (P3 Morrow White : their base color.)

BTW - all images are clickable for much larger photos.

White Test #1 – P3 Underbelly Blue

Still looking promising. More of a "ghostly" feel, which might work when you're a "Phantom."

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-1-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #2 – P3 Menoth White Base

Smoothest result by far on this round.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-2-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #3 – P3 Frostbite

Reserving judgment until I see the final pure white highlight layer. I'll probably play with glazes to see if I can get this one where I want it.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-3-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #4 – P3 ‘Thrall Flesh

Sickly and pale, right where it should be.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-4-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #5 – P3 ‘Jack Bone

Now looking more like bone.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-5-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #6 – P3 Trollblood Highlight

I will definitely glaze this one afterwards. The steps in the layers are too steep to transition smoothly in my usual style.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-6-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #7 – P3 Cryx Bane Highlight

More stepping. This one gave me an idea for something other than white though...

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-7-Stage03-112x150.jpg

White Test #8 – P3 Ironhull Grey

Yay. I managed to paint a gray marine. Going straight to white on the next layer will definitely NOT work. Like the other "failures" though, I'll use this to play around and go in a different direction.

http://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage01-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage02-112x150.jpghttp://youngwolf7.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/WhiteTest-8-Stage03-112x150.jpg

Nearing the finish line. This round went faster. Only 15 minutes per marine. I most definitely need new brushes though. The points are all gone. Windsor Newton Series 7's are awesome, but seem to be made of pure gold these days for the rarity in trying to find a vendor with them in stock. Anyone got a good source?