WitchHunter5 Posted January 24, 2014 Share Posted January 24, 2014 Here is my first try at making Ghost Knights for Mordrak. The look I was going for is the army of the dead from LOTR ROTK, and a little bit of the green ghost from ghostbusters. http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/thslax5/0123141408_zpsaca06630.jpg http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/thslax5/0123141408a_zpsf7ab86e7.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selleck Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Have you tried using just green wash? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3579470 Share on other sites More sharing options...
WitchHunter5 Posted January 27, 2014 Author Share Posted January 27, 2014 I haven't I actually am not sure how the washing works? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3579900 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master Caloth Posted January 27, 2014 Share Posted January 27, 2014 Can be brushed over the entire model to shade, or used with precision to build layers of depth, such as the engravings on the armor, put some wash on the brush, and then put the tip of the brush into the spaces of the letters. The wash will deposit, and after drying, helps give the letters definition Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3579932 Share on other sites More sharing options...
thade Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 That green is very intense. :) A wash is a very thinned ("watered down", though not necessarily with water) coat. Whether you use a wash as is, or a regular paint that you thin out quite a bit (with thinner or just some water on your palette) a wash will leave very light layers on high and mid levels on your model and darker/heavier layers in the recesses (since the dyes will tend to gather up down there). Either way, you'll want to allow each coat of a wash ample time to dry, as if you go at it again too soon you'll cause the previous coat to pull and snag. If you hit Google with something like "mini painting how wash" as I did, you'll find a host of how-to videos and articles explaining the details much better than I do here. :) I use washes (both ways I describe) in much of my work; I really love them. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3580230 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grand Master Caloth Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Thade, i find better results using it as a shade, because it's very difficult to get an even coat on higher raised areas of the model Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3580576 Share on other sites More sharing options...
thade Posted January 28, 2014 Share Posted January 28, 2014 Certainly, yea...it will darken everything about the model, but far and away the recesses will get the biggest hit, even with a consistent layer.If the model in the OP were mine and I wanted to stick with that ectoplasmic bright green (which is kind of hip) I'd hit the plate engravings and recesses/joints with a black ink/wash to give the model depth and really make the engravings pop. (A very, very watered down, tiny bit of black paint and maybe some follow-up dry brushing with white or that green to clean up the high points on the engravings.) I wouldn't hit the whole model, just those parts. Then I'd make the eyes black to give it a haunting, hollow look to it. I'm not saying this is the proper thing to do, and the model as-is looks fieldable to me (given some basing ) but that's what I would do, if it's of interest. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/286006-ghost-knights-1st-attempt/#findComment-3580679 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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