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brad617

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The question boils down to - how fine (width-wise) 'lines' do you intend to paint and do you need to be able to control the thickness of your 'lines' on the fly.

 

I realize that some may disagree and say the GW AB is rubbish and overpriced, but IMHO if all you need to do is paint base coats and broad layers like camo on vehicles - then the GW AB is good enough.

 

It is single action and bottom jar feed - which means that you cannot control the thickness of your 'lines' on the fly and that you can't use a smaller gravity feed cup if you're painting 'less'.

 

But, single action does have its advantages too in that it is easier to clean up and you have less to fiddle with while painting. All you need to do is:

 

1. Thin the paint appropriately (see the other thread on airbrushing some posts below on this forum)

 

2. Adjust the nozzle until it sprays appropriately

 

And, FYI you need to do the above with any airbrush anyway.

 

In fact, while I have both a single and dual action airbrush, I use my single action all the time. Currently, I'm using a Paache H - which honestly is not too different from the GW AB (which I think is a Badger) except that I run the former off a compressor (instead of a can) and the former can take other accessories like different nozzles and a side gravity cup.

 

I have used the GW AB myself though when away from home and it is no slouch. It will handle paints like GW's (with some appropriate thinning). From talking to others, there's probably a whole lot more base coats and some layers applies with the GW AB than with any other ABs.

 

Just my 10 cents.

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That will definately work.

 

Later you could probably buy an actual compressor to fit the GW AB too. I know the compressor for my Paache works with the GW Spray Gun.

 

The only other thing about using the cans instead of an actual compressor is that you can't change the pressure. But again for base coating and basic layers, it doesn't really matter. Thin the paint, adjust the nozzle until paint comes out. Vary the distance between the AB and your model to control the spread / thickness.

 

Course, depending on how much you paint, cans may eventually cost more.

 

Again, others will say the GW Spray Gun is crap but it's like $33. My Paache H was about $40 or $50. And, they are not that different. It isn't a professional dual action but it doesn't sound like you need that. And, unlike a DA, it is difficult to gunk up the GW one.

 

If you have questions later - feel free to PM me.

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  • 1 month later...

The GW airbursh is very limited, and way too pricey of the basic piece of garbage that it is. Also, never, ever, EVER used canned air. There can be pressure issues, it never seals quite right once opened, and will end up costing you tons more money than a simple, cheap air compressor will. If you live somewhere that you can't make a lot of noise, like an apartment, just suck it up and spend the money on a nice quiet airbrush compressor, which will still pay for itself quickly over using canned air. If you are a casual hobbyist, just stick with spray cans of paint instead. if yo ruar lookign to get an airbrush, because you are not a casual hobbyist (or do not intend to remain a casual hobbyist), then read on...

Here is a post I wrote for Warseer a while back. If any of the links are dead, do a product search for the airbrush model name(s). Also, no, I do NOT work for IWATA laugh.png , but I do own their products and am familiar with them.

Iwata makes excellent airbrushes for a decent price(excellent quality for the price). Properly maintained, you’ll not likely need another unless you get really serious about airbrushing all kinds of things (or get in the habit of using different types of paints). Many people have separate airbrushes for clear coats(so that they never become "tainted" by stray metallic flake in particular), one for metallics, one for enamels, one for lacquers, etc.

The Iwata HP-BCS has a huge 2 oz. paint reservoir (cup), but you will notice that it will spray anywhere from as fine as a human hair to 2” round spray patterns. Very versatile.

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/eclipse/hpbcs_info.jsp

Always get it with the hose. It costs less. I prefer the braided hose, but the starter black plastic one is okay to begin with. Upgrade it when it finally dies on you. Here is a great price on it and the better air hose:

http://http://www.merriartist.com/eclipse_hp_bcs_set_with_airhose_p/i-ecl-2001.htm

http://http://www.merriartist.com/product_p/bt-010.htm

If you want to do up close and personal work then you could go for this one:

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/eclipse/hpcs_info.jsp

You can still basecoat larger things with the HP-CS, but the paint reservoir is smaller at 1/3 oz / 9ml. Remember that a bottle of GW paint is only 1 oz / 17ml though, so that give you an idea of how much paint this really is(perhaps it will be enough for you). On the upside there is no large siphon bottle in the way, so you can get real close to the model you are working on. That is important if you want to shade the muscles on your infantry(seriously, you can do this with a decent airbrush), airbrush fine detail/shading on banners, do camouflage patterns on your infantry, etc. The Eclipse range is great throughout, with a spray pattern as wide as a hair at its finest, going up to 2 inches (50 mm) at its largest. If that doesn’t cover all of your needs then you must be painting a car or house. Here is another link:

http://http://www.merriartist.com/Iwata_Eclipse_HP_SC_p/i-ecl-4500.htm

There is also the Revolution series, which is also very good. You will note that it is very similar to the Eclipse series. The Revolution CR is the less expensive model of the Eclipse HP-CS, but the quality is not cheap at all. The spray pattern simply doesn’t go quite as fine or as large as the Eclipse series equivalent, though the pattern is still very good, having a range from 1/16” /1.75mm at its finest to 1.5”/ 38mm at its broadest, which is more than good enough for the average wargaming hobbyist.

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/revolution/cr_specs.jsp

http://http://www.merriartist.com/revolution_hp_cr_gravity_feed_airbrush_p/i-r-4500.htm

There is also the Revolution BCR, which is kind of a less costly version of the Eclipse HP-BCS.

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/airbrush/revolution/bcr_info.jsp

http://http://www.merriartist.com/revolution_hp_bcr_siphon_feed_airbrush_w_hose_p/i-r-2001.htm

One important thing to note about all four of these airbrushes is that they are dual-action airbrushes. The dual-action refers to being able to control both air flow AND paint flow simultaneously. This is particularly useful for blending. If you want a fine misting of paint then increase the air flow and keep the paint flow low. It takes some practice to do this well, but you can get some great results. You can also purposely create splatter effects, such as for mud spattered up the sides of vehicles.

Iwata also makes a great compressor that is near silent for you apartment dwellers or those who have a spouse not keen on the usual noisy(and large) garage style air compressors. The Smart Jet is a great compressor, with some great features. It is small, yet still more than powerful enough for airbrushing little army men and their tanks, or bugs and their bigger bug friends. The Sprint Jet costs a bit less and is still a good, quiet compressor. The Silver Jet model is the entry level model. It is not quite a powerful as the others, but is more than adequate for general hobby applications. That is what it is made for after all.

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/compressors/smart_info.jsp

http://http://www.iwata-medea.com/products/compressors/sprint_info.jsp

http://http://www.merriartist.com/product_p/is-50.htm

Also, most paints require thinning to be used in an airbrush, and never just pour the paint into the airbrush reservoir (cup) straight from the paint bottle. Premix and then fill. The paint should be about as thick/transparent as 2% milk. That might seem kind of thin, but trust me, it is just right. Regardless of what brand of airbrush you settle on, make sure you look over the airbrush’s features before buying one so that you know it will do what you want it to. And make sure you clean your airbrush THOROUGHLY after using it, EVERY TIME. Trust me when I say that using weird cleaners to get dried paint out of your airbrush so that it doesn’t spit and splatter paint like a feral cat is no fun at all.

Always test your paint flow for spattering and spitting before you point your airbrush at a model. Just spray it on a piece of white paper you have handy. If it spits and splatters rather than sprays finely then either your airbrush is dirty(clogged with dried paint, a hair, etc.) or the paint you are using has not been thinned enough and is itself clogging the airbrush. Clean the airbrush or thin the paint as needed to fix the problem. Sometimes an o-ring inside of the airbrush assembly can be improperly installed after cleaning and re-assembly which can also cause problems. Make sure the parts go together smoothly when reassembling your airbrush after cleaning. I think that covers most of the bases.

Hope that is helpful.

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That's a good summary from Shabbadoo.  I'll tell you I, and others I know, have had perfectly good success with the cheap Chinese airbrushes you can get on ebay.  I know it sounds sketchy, but this isn't a piece going on to a space shuttle.  It's a pretty simple bit of mechanism.  Any of those ones you see packed in the bright blue foam.  Just make sure you're getting a dual action, as stated above. I would always go gravity feed as you waste considerably less paint.

For air, agree that canned is not worth it.  

My buddy wrote a post on getting in to airbrushing for less than $100 here

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  • 1 month later...

All good points, and your friend wrote a great article. And Harbor Freight is a place of pure evil!!! You walk in there to get a pair of work gloves for $2.99, and you walk out with a cart full of stuff that you "gotta have"! I have a store only 7 miles away, so I know of what I speak! tongue.png They even sell a few different airbrush kits (http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=airbrush no gravity feed, but beggars can't be choosers), and relatively familiar looking dental/sculpting tool sets, disposable gloves, clamps of various kinds, wire cutters, plier sets, precision screw drivers, simple pipe cutters, air compressor fittings, pressure tanks for mold making/resin casting- all kinds of stuff. If you need a hobby tool of some kind, they probably have a cheap version of what you are looking for that will work just fine. If anybody visits Harbor Freight, they should just "walk the store". Walk down every isle and see what is there. I bet you leave with things that you didn't go there to get.

Those not familiar with the gravity feed airbrushes might see that small cup and be skeptical. People won't need to refill the cup quite as much as they may think- a little goes quite a long way when airbrushing. Less expensive airbrushes can be fine too, especially for the simple stuff that we will all mostly be using them for. The airbrush model your friend put in his article has a lot of bang for the buck to be sure. I might be tempted to get one just for spaying metallics. He's right about the compressor too- it works just fine, but it is noisy as hell. I still have a small compressor similar to that one (bought at Harbor Freight, of course), but I also have a much bigger one to use air tools with (I can lower the pressure on it to be airbrush friendly too). Always good to have a back-up! biggrin.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

So from what I read Iwata and Badger are the common best brand? dual action? and no bottom feeder

I'm thinking about gearing up.

Got the GW since it's the only thing that I managed to find here in China. Ironically they all seem to be exported

It's convenient but time is precious so I need a better one

Does anyone as a very quiet compressor to recommend?

I live in an appartement. .

Any must have equipment with the airbrush ? cleaning tools, liquid masks....?

 

Thanks a lot in advance for any tips

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry Darth, stopped paying attention to this thread.  I have an Iwata Power Jet Pro.  It's fantastic for an apartment. Not cheap, but it's got a lot of great features and is quiet as you're gonna get. 

 

I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner.  Probably can use any though.  

 

Golden Airbrush Medium is really nice to improve the flow. I put in about 2:1- paint:medium ratio. 

 

I haven't found a liquid mask I really like yet.  I just use Blue Tac from the office supply store.  Maybe not as pin point accurate, but it's cheap and reusable!

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