Yellow! Help Pics added for advice.

[malorn24]

I am doing an imp fist army and maybe I am doing it all wrong but the models aren't turning out how I want. (ish) they aren't bad just want better LOL.

 

So let me list what I am doing and then you tell me.

 

1. Prim black

 

2. Yellow foundation

 

3. badab/ nulin whatever wash to darken the yellow and get the recesses and details.

 

4. layer with the darker of the two yellows. I forget the new name.

 

5. paint trim and details in various colors.

 

6. glaze the yellow.

 

 

Now when I wash the foundation I use alot and push a bunch in into the lines and edges.  but I do wash the entire model and it leaves a dark a dirty look. Not bad since I see marines as getting dirty. Then I run a yellow layer around all the flat surfaces and stop right before I hit the edge. What I am noticing though is that I still have streaks of black/ dark pushing through the layer. My question is how to get rid of the streaking. Should I just add another yellow layer until I get rid of the streaks? I just don't want it to look to caked on.

[Kronus Stormbringer]

Hmm I use a similar method but I use Vallejo paints I dont have any of the streaking your are experiencing.

[Durus]

It's kind of hard to say what the problem is without having a mini to look at.

But truth be told I think in general it would make more sense for yellow marines to start with a white primer and go from there. Would be much easier to get an even yellow over white, you just have to shade and then and pick out the details. Blacklining takes a little while, but it would still be faster than painting several coats of yellow over black until it looks even. I painted my fantasy orc's armor yellow and since the largest area of those minis was skin I painted the skin first and consequently primed black as well. Should have primed white for the Blackorcs though...

The new GW range has shade/glaze paints that I've wanted to give a try for that. Have a look at this.

[malorn24]

The funny thing is that the base coat has no streaking. It is only the layering that is having the problem.

[Kronus Stormbringer]

Im priming grey then using a yellow basecoat, I shade using a brown then apply my first highlight to the leading edges.  My highlight is very very thin about 1:8 paint to water and I apply it in several coats.  A 50/50 agrax/water shade then a final highlight is applied.  I'll post up my results when I set my lightbox up later in the week.

[Grotsmasha]

I'm fairly certain that one of the go-to methods these days is Casandora (spelling? the wash) over a white primer. Some wash with Seraphim Sepia (recess' only) prior to Casandora. 

 

Cheers,

Jono

[averykess]

you probably need a midtone after that black primer.  A medium brown should help with the color depth on the yellow foundation

[malorn24]

I thought about doing the white with the sepia wash and I have liked the pictures of what I see. So I might switch but that would be that I need to buy white primer  and reprimer my ENTIRE army lol

[GumbaFish]

I agree by priming black you are already fighting an uphill battle. I have found success using a white primer, but also light brown works quite well.  Perhaps you could just try giving your miniatures a coat of a suitable brown color first then move onto yellow if you don't want to prime them all again.

[Hemal]

If you must use black, you should hit the areas you are paiting with a nice flat white or even a fleshtone.  That will give a much better coverage of the black, yellow just doesn't sit well on black surfaces.  The best would be to use foundation paints which were awesome but I am unsure who does paints similar to these now..

[malorn24]

ok so even though the streaks are NOT showing through my base coat but ARE showing after I wash with badab black and then use a yellow layer I should still through a brown of some sort over the black. I am having no problem with seeing any black whatsoever after the base coat. It is only after I wash to make the yellow not so bright and then layering that I am seeing the streaking.

[Hemal]

Ah - in which case - don't wash with badab black.  You don't use blacks to shade yellow in normal circumstances - teh paint i probably pooling within small ridges (do you paint on the yellow in multipel dirctions?)  I If you are uysing washes best to use them in a controlled fashion, in teh ares you want to shade, and using acrylic medium to make teh paint flow better (you could also use a tiny drop of washing up liquid for the same effect)

[malorn24]

Now that makes since. What color would darken the yellow up a bit more. I tried delvin mud but I didn't like the look.

[GumbaFish]

I misunderstood I think as well, it was a little unclear when I read it quickly since you washed it with black.  Anywho I would suggest that in general marines are not good for applying a liberal wash all over due to the large flat surfaces.  Instead just apply your wash in the areas you want to shade, like towards joints and crevices, leaving your basecoat intact in higher areas.  I still personally would never use black as a base for yellow because I find it nothing but trouble, but if it is working for you then I guess stick with it.

 

I think this is also the advantage of starting off with a white .  Check out this tutorial, it yields some nice results I think and might give you some ideas.  In general though yes I would stick to sepia/brown colors instead of black though.

 

http://davetaylorminiatures.blogspot.com/2012/11/lamenters-update-painting-yellow.html

[chaplain mortis]

Hey malorn24

 

If your going to be painting alot of yellow power armour I have to suggest to you that you use either an airbrush, spray gun or spray paint.

Not only do these speed up your painting time but it also gives such a fine finish and coherent look across yohr army.

If an airbrush seems to daunting then look into tamiya or humbrol acrylic sprays..

If I remember rightly they both do yellow sprays which have the added advantage of being gloss aswell.

Gloss is good as it really helps when you come to shade the model, instead of washing the whole model, mix either sepia or agrax with a flow medium and using a small brush apply the wash to the recessed areas only, minimum amount of clean up work required and you still keep that flat yellow look to the armour...the gloss finish of the spray helps the wash flow into and around the recesses. .then paint your details and hit it all with a matt varnish to finish. .

Hole this helps..should save you tons of time

[Honda]

For gold/yellow, I use auto primer red, which is really a red brown. There's also the option of using the Army Painter Desert Sand, which is a nice base to work up your yellow from. There's a guy on WIP doing PH Fists and his turned out quite nice.

 

Let me see if I can find his thread, it would provide you with a good guide.

 

I do agree with the others in that, when it comes to yellow, black is not your friend.

 

EDIT: Found the link. The OP is Rider-75

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/192036-heresy-marines-um-and-if-updated-19-feb-2014/?p=3481813

[malorn24]

Thanks all. Air brushing is out of it since I can't afford to buy one. LOL

 

I might try the engine primer I think I actually have  acan of the red in the garage. lol.

 

And yes alot of black wash on the yellow leaves buddles of black but I am trying to toning it down a bit. I am going to apply anothr layer of yellow before highlighting maybe that will help. now that I think about it maybe a wash in the details and then a delvan mud over the rest. I guess I will try that way as well.

[Hemal]

Don't wash over the whole armour - it will puddle regardless of what you do.  wash teh creivces, layer the central sections and edge highlights.  less is more with yellow

 

You really need to base - wash (a litle more liberally applied) - layer base coat - wash again, controlled (darker shade) - touch up base, highlight with layer and highlught again on shiniest / edges

[Nusquam]

Theres an Army Painter primer called Daemonic Yellow that my friend uses to paint his IF. Works great as a basecoat.

 

Alternatively you can use GWs recommended "yellow". They don't say how to do it, but I'll tell you what has worked for me and my friend.

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2280054a_99189950001_AverlandSunset02_77x55.jpg

Averland Sunset basecoat, 1-3 layers. Thin it to be a bit thicker than milk

 

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2281285a_99189953001_CassandoraYellow02_77x55.jpg

Casandora Yellow shade. Use a large brush and apply quickly and everywhere, be sure to dry up and excessive pooling. On larger surfaces just hit where you want to shade, like vehicle hulls.

 

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2280585a_99189951001_YrielYellow02_77x55.jpg

Yriel Yellow. Here you can layer on, a bit thicker than milk again, but be sure to keep the layer even and don't let it build up in the recesses. Half the battle here is the right kind of brush, flat brush for large areas etc to reduce brush strokes. It will take a few layers. The transparency of this color is notorious and perfect for layering over the shade above. If you find its not dark enough once you get a solid color use Seraphim Sepia instead of the above shade.

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2280595a_99189951002_FlashgitzYellow02_77x55.jpg

Flash Gitz Yellow. Use this to highlight all the edges.

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2280395a_99189952001_HexosPalesun02_77x55.jpg

Hexos Palesun dry. Use the to dry brush very lightly over the most prominent edges.

http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2280545a_99189954001_LamentorsYellow02_77x55.jpg

Lamenters Yellow glaze. This will bring in the colors to a more uniform "family" and blend them more. Optional but the results can be nice.

[Hellrender]

Yes, i highly recommend the army painter way aswell.

1) Prime with a White Primer (like GW Skull White Spray) let it dry properly: atleast an hour.

2) Spray with Army Painter Daemonic Yellow

3) Layer a lighter yellow (depending how much you want to do, you could skip this step. I recommend skipping if you find it hard to do MANY thin layers, like i do )

4) Wash. See below.

5) Add another layer of yellow, can be the same as step 3. Same applies though this can be skipped. If you want to do either 3 or 5, i recommend doing 3 and skipping 5.

6) Highlight. With a lighter colour then 5 (or 3). Just the edges really, not all edges, just those that catch the light.

7) use a varnish. The standard varnish from GW has always done me great, but there are many other options. Wetblending is very nice for this, and in my opinion, easier to master then edge highlighting if you dont have a steady hand.

**Notes**

Spraying: Do NOT hold the spray too close. Spray in bursts. Do not spray one side too many times in a row. Rotate the model, and come back to a side later on (prevents spray paint from running)

Wash: Seraphim Sepia is very nice. Arthrax Earthshade also works if you want a darker/grittier feel. Army painter also has 3 shading tones (soft (serpia-ish), strong (brownish) and dark (dark brown/blackish).

This takes a LONG time to day. Important here is, once you apply, you let it rest. if you brush the wash before its properly dry, but after it has been on the model for a second of 20, you will create streaks. The wash will start to dry up, and if you then brush it, you create ugly blotches. So, apply but if you see you need to adjust a bit of wash, do so with a wet brush, and make sure you do it before the wash starts drying.

Wetblending: Wet blending is a very nice technique. You basicly use wet paint, but you apply it first on the edge with the strongest highlight, and brush towards the lesser areas, everyime you apply the brush again, you start at where the layer needs to be strongest. This way you automaticly get the brighter yellow on the edge, with a very smooth transition to the darker parts.

Armypainter: ofcourse, instead of spraying your basecoat, you can easily apply the first layer yourself. Just choose a nice base yellow. With GW, choose a base colour, not a layer colour.

[Jeff Newton]

The black wash was way too dark when I did mine. I have been using sepia wash as it's more orange yellow. I have also been priming with Vallejo dessert yellow then army painter demonic yellow with an airbrush.

[Phalanx Warder]

I have been playing with my yellow for a while now and I will add some thoughts.

 

For me personally I dont like my marines too bright so mine tend to be darker than the GW version.

 

I start with a gray primer and go lightly over it with avertland sunset through the air brush at a 45 degree down angle. I then hit all crevices and seams with scorched brown (extremely lightly), a controlled do over with avertland sunset to clean up any scorched brown mistakes then multiple thin layers of the new paint range equivalent of golden yellow in the appropriate highlight spots. Done!

[Psy-Crow]

There are many ways to paint yellow, and with all the great techniques suggested here, it might help you to get some spare pieces of sprue from your figures and have a paint session experimenting. 

Also, i'm in the work up from brown and only wash the crevices camp. Can you post a picture so we can see the results you're getting at the moment?

[Phalanx Warder]

I have been playing with my yellow for a while now and I will add some thoughts.

For me personally I dont like my marines too bright so mine tend to be darker than the GW version.

I start with a gray primer and go lightly over it with avertland sunset through the air brush at a 45 degree down angle. I then hit all crevices and seams with scorched brown (extremely lightly), a controlled do over with avertland sunset to clean up any scorched brown mistakes then multiple thin layers of the new paint range equivalent of golden yellow in the appropriate highlight spots. Done!

Here are some pictures of the techniques I mentioned above in a tank and an individual Astartes

This fellow I used wash instead of Scorched Brown:

[MordentHex]

I head, that a good base color for Yellow is actually pink. Then go over it with your yellows and it make a nice deep yellow. :)