Kobrakei Posted May 3, 2014 Share Posted May 3, 2014 After watching these GW videos, I can say they're probably some of the better tutorials I've seen on the internet. If I'd never painted a tank before, I would think these were perfect, and explain every step without being condescending. Give them a try. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3673181 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted May 4, 2014 Share Posted May 4, 2014 Nothing wrong with airbrushing. Especially when it's one well. My issue with it is the over use to add things like OSL and badly done highlights. I don't have an airbrush but have tried one for laying down a couple of base coats on tanks before and I can see why people use them as they do give a nice layer quicker. I've been looking over a few tutorials like the ones GW did on the Hydra (which wasn't as useless a vid as I though it was going to be) and having a look through the FW modelling books has given me some ideas and I think I'll be trying this: - base colour with big flat brush. - any camo added. - dry brush edges for highlights. - transfers added. - line plates, rivet, etc with something like devlan mud. - sponge the base colour onto parts of the camo colour for weathering. - sponge transfers with the colour underneath them. - add chips with sponge. - wash tracks with a dusty ash like colour. Add some to wheels too. - dry brush tracks with a metallic black grey. - lights, Windows, etc painted in but NOT using OSL. More weathering will happen but will all be with paint as I don't have powders. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3674067 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Azash Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 You could use the colored primers from army painter and prime and base coat in the first step. This gives you your base to build from without brush strokes or air brushing. Now the color base for my army is black so that is what I essentially do. I spray prime/base coat the tanks black. From there I use watered down coats of skavenblight dings to lighten up certain areas where ligh would strike. Thinner paint = no brush strokes. The hard part comes from the white. For that I use two coats of thinned down ceramite white a flat wide brush and patience. I let each coat dry before the next. Then thinned coats of white scar up from that. If you don't let it completely dry you push around semi congealed paint which gives you obvious brush strokes. Really sticks out on a black and white tank if I screw it up. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3676246 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valkyrion Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 The problem I have is that I cheat (and not with an airbrush) on infantry which means my vehicles don't match. e.g, I found a nice way to paint salamanders using two light coats of Moot (? used to be scorpion) green followed by a black wash then a green wash. No highlighting or anything, takes longer to dry than paint. Same process could be used with Sons of Medusa, Subjugators etc with little alteration. I haven't tried it but I would imagine using the lightest red/yellow/blue followed by suitable washes would also make decent tabletop Blood Angels/Imperial Fists/Ultramarines. That simply does not translate to vehicles where the wash struggles with large, flat surfaces. So I try to use the darker green (used to be snot) and highlight with moot but the colours simply don't match. I honestly don't know if using an airbrush for the washes on a tank would solve this? I find washes are a great way to paint the lighter armies, as long as you don't want vehicles in them. I literally have no idea how to paint a metallic vehicle, however. They always seem to turn out as though they have been coated with like a silver plastic rather than painted. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3679497 Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.k.i.t.t.l.e Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Airbrushing washes makes them act more like a glaze than a wash. They don't run into crevices, just add a tint to the area you spray them on. Its actually a very good effect, they are a very 'soft' colour change. The same thing can be done with very thinned paint. You could probably still do your cheat method on vehicles, make sure you aren't overloading your brush with the wash when you are applying it, so that it only pools at the end of the brush stroke. Use a large soft brush for it, one that has good flow, a decent kolinski sable would probably be best. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3679517 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 The other option is to go for just having panels in the washed colour and the rest if the model in something plain and utilitarian like grey or metal. Means they act as more of a backdrop to the foot troops. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/290313-vehicle-painting-vs-infantry-painting/page/2/#findComment-3679892 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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