Need some assistance with painting.

[chrisdubya]

So I recently bought a collection of space marines to get into the 40k tabletop and painter aspects, I planned on painting my guys imperial fist because I think their chapter is pretty cool.

 

 

Following this mans advice; 

 

 

 

Thanks guys, Marshall what recipe did you use for the whole model?

 

1.) White Base

2.) Two coats watered down Averland Sunset

3.) Two coats watered down Yriel Yellow

4.) Wash lightly with Seraphim Sepia, focusing only on recesses.

5.) More watered down Yriel Yellow to touch up any mistakes and even out all the armor. 

6.) Highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow

 

And this step I have never done but for character models I would recommend.

 

7.) Fine highlight with Dorn Yellow

 

Add battle damage, honor markings, transfers etc. as needed. 

 

I bought every paint he listed expect instead of white base, I used imperial primer.

I watched a large amount of tutorials on the internet to determine how to properly paint and they all appear very broad so I decided to dive right in.

 

So here is what I did,

I started withe a basecoat of imperial primer, with a 1:1 ratio of paint to distilled water, then I placed on two coats of Averland Sunset, using the same ratio of 1:1 {1/8th tsp of water, 1/8th tsp of paint}

 

Now my model is chalky looking, with small darker areas on the basecoat.

http://i.imgur.com/9dDQp69.jpg

I am unsure what to do, should I continue to paint the 1:1 Yriel yellow or stop because I already made a mistake?

 

Please help me.

[Grotsmasha]

For Imperial Fists it really is important to start from white. Also, Imperial Primer isn't a proper unde rcoat like the sprays are. If you really don't want to buy the White spray (I don't blame you, it's horrid, the black is much better) you'll need the White "Base" paint to go over the black.

 

There is an even simpler version of the above scheme that just uses the White base/undercoat and the washes. Basically once the base/undercoat is an even white, you paint Sepia wash into the recesses only, then once it's completely dry you wash the entire model in the yellow wash. Allow it to dry and repeat the yellow wash if necessary.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[chrisdubya]

For Imperial Fists it really is important to start from white. Also, Imperial Primer isn't a proper unde rcoat like the sprays are. If you really don't want to buy the White spray (I don't blame you, it's horrid, the black is much better) you'll need the White "Base" paint to go over the black.

 

There is an even simpler version of the above scheme that just uses the White base/undercoat and the washes. Basically once the base/undercoat is an even white, you paint Sepia wash into the recesses only, then once it's completely dry you wash the entire model in the yellow wash. Allow it to dry and repeat the yellow wash if necessary.

 

Cheers,

Jono

So would you recommend stripping this down and using a spray primer instead of the phony GW primer?

[Grotsmasha]

Yep, if you want the brighter Yellow, you probably should strip it. The GW primer has it's uses, just not as a basecoat for white models.

[FleshTearer5000]

 

 

For Imperial Fists it really is important to start from white. Also, Imperial Primer isn't a proper unde rcoat like the sprays are. If you really don't want to buy the White spray (I don't blame you, it's horrid, the black is much better) you'll need the White "Base" paint to go over the black.

 

There is an even simpler version of the above scheme that just uses the White base/undercoat and the washes. Basically once the base/undercoat is an even white, you paint Sepia wash into the recesses only, then once it's completely dry you wash the entire model in the yellow wash. Allow it to dry and repeat the yellow wash if necessary.

 

Cheers,

Jono

So would you recommend stripping this down and using a spray primer instead of the phony GW primer?

I would put that model aside for stripping and start fresh with the above guide mate. It's a must for bright colours like yellow to have a white undercoat because that is what will give your armour colour its brightness and impact. For stripping there are a few different ways but I would suggest soaking it in Simple Green household cleaner (available almost any hardware store) overnight or so, then with a toothbrush gentle scrub the paint back. If it doesn't all come off first time just repeat the process and it'll be good as new again.

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

Ditch the white primer and use this: http://admin.thearmypainter.com/files/products/sprays/cp3015_600x450px_1.jpg

 

Use yellow shades and glazes as needed to modulate the color of the yellow. Or just paint your preferred yellow over the yellow primer.

[chrisdubya]

http://i.imgur.com/iWTmacr.jpg

 

Okay so my astartes have entered their spa, just so I don't make any mistakes, you guys are suggesting I;

1) spray a white primer coat with spray primer.

2) apply Seraphim Sepia shade to the recesses of the model.

3) then let the model dry, apply Cassandora Yellow to the entire model.

4) then rise and repeat step 3 until desired effect?

[Grotsmasha]

Yep :tu:  Just do the one model to be sure you like it before committing the rest, also be sure to rinse them off in water after the simple green.

 

On GW's white spray, it's very finicky to use properly compared to the black. With the black, I can get away with a 30sec shake, the White NEEDS at lest 90secs. Spray in the shade early morning or late afternoon, the white is quite temperamental and can partially dry in the air if used when too hot or in direct sunlight. If at first it appears to be too heavy and has filled in all the details, don't panic, sometimes the aerosol will evaporate away, so let anything dry before making a decision. Hold the can about 1 1/2 feet away and you should be alright.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

Yep, if you want the brighter Yellow, you probably should strip it. The GW primer has it's uses, just not as a basecoat for white models.

Yeah its a great paperweight when the pot is still full.... :)

[chrisdubya]

And for lenses and purity seals what do I do?

 

Also chapter logo comes with a squad, right?

[Emperor's Fury]

If you bought the tactical squad in the box it comes with some chapter badges, if not B&C has Imperial Fist logos in the download>decals> Index Astartes section. As for purity seals its a red seal and white / tan ribbon.

[chrisdubya]

If you bought the tactical squad in the box it comes with some chapter badges, if not B&C has Imperial Fist logos in the download>decals> Index Astartes section. As for purity seals its a red seal and white / tan ribbon.

Is there a guide to applying the logo?

 

Also what about lenses?

[S.k.i.t.t.l.e]

 

 

If you bought the tactical squad in the box it comes with some chapter badges, if not B&C has Imperial Fist logos in the download>decals> Index Astarts section. As for purity seals its a red seal and white / tan ribbon.

Is there a guide to applying the logo?

 

Also what about lenses?

Answers to both of these questions can be found with a quick Google or even YouTube search... :)

 

With regards to decals, finish all the painting you want done to the area you are applying the decal (unless you're doing pin washes... but thats another topic) apply a smooth coath of Gloss varnish to the area, cut your decal from the sheet (cut close to the decal) and put it onto a wet sponge/paper towel/or directly onto water until the decal separates from the backing paper. Apply a little water to the area you're applying the decal to, and gently apply the decal with a damp brush, do not push the decal to get it into position, only carefully pull it. Once in position, carefully dab excess water away with paper towel or a cotton bud. Leave to dry fully, then apply satin or matte varnish (whichever you use as your final protective coat) There are specialist products out there for applying decals, but water is usually fine.

 

For lenses, paint the lens black, apply your preferred lens colour to the front 2/3 of each lens in a couple of thin layers, then apply a lighter shade of your lens colour (you can just add a little white to your chosen colour) to the front 1/3 of the lens, add a dot of pure white to the black part at the rear of the lens and apply gloss varnish. Jobs a good un. :)

[Emperor's Fury]

 

If you bought the tactical squad in the box it comes with some chapter badges, if not B&C has Imperial Fist logos in the download>decals> Index Astartes section. As for purity seals its a red seal and white / tan ribbon.

Is there a guide to applying the logo?

 

Also what about lenses?

Here is a link to the Imperial Fist logos. http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/files/file/59-imperial-fists-decal-sheet/

[NovemberIX]

I gotta ask, are you going for a very bright, almost school bus yellow chrome?

 

Like others have said, prime in white (the daemonic yellow might be a really great idea, but I've never tried it so I can't comment)

I do have an exceedingly simple recipe to do a bright yellow.

 

Prime in white

Do a fairly liberal wash of Lamenters yellow, while it's still damp, start brushing in Flash Gitz yellow.

Continue alternating until you have the depth of color you like, but it shouldn't take too many coats.

Then shade crevices with you're choice of dark paint, I usually use nuln oil/badab black for a hard contrast.

 

I also cheat a little, instead of dampening my brush in water, I use the flash gitz as a sort of liquid medium with out reducing the pigment too much, hence the intensity of yellow my guys usually have. I find with these bright colors it's all about shading (which to be honest I'm a little lazy about when it's not on a character model).

[chrisdubya]

If you bought the tactical squad in the box it comes with some chapter badges, if not B&C has Imperial Fist logos in the download>decals> Index Astartes section. As for purity seals its a red seal and white / tan ribbon.

Is there a guide to applying the logo?

Also what about lenses?

Here is a link to the Imperial Fist logos. http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/files/file/59-imperial-fists-decal-sheet/

Now do I use a custom type of printer paper for this? I read elsewhere that you need a decal printer paper, or could standard computer paper be used?

I gotta ask, are you going for a very bright, almost school bus yellow chrome?

Like others have said, prime in white (the daemonic yellow might be a really great idea, but I've never tried it so I can't comment)

I do have an exceedingly simple recipe to do a bright yellow.

Prime in white

Do a fairly liberal wash of Lamenters yellow, while it's still damp, start brushing in Flash Gitz yellow.

Continue alternating until you have the depth of color you like, but it shouldn't take too many coats.

Then shade crevices with you're choice of dark paint, I usually use nuln oil/badab black for a hard contrast.

I also cheat a little, instead of dampening my brush in water, I use the flash gitz as a sort of liquid medium with out reducing the pigment too much, hence the intensity of yellow my guys usually have. I find with these bright colors it's all about shading (which to be honest I'm a little lazy about when it's not on a character model).

This color is my end goal,

[NovemberIX]

Yep, since you're looking for that bright school bus yellow chrome, then I completely recommend prime in white, and just use a whole load of flash gitz/lameneters yellow. It's gonna be all about the shading, maybe start off with casandora yellow and go progressively darker until satisfied.

[Ovidius Incertus]

You'll need decal paper to print your own; the decal sheets that come with some GW products are good to go on their own.  Google "Testors decal paper" and you'll find the right product.  It's available in some hobby shops.  You'll need an inkjet printer AND you'll also need decal bonder spray (also by Testors)...without it, the ink will just wash away when you soften the decal in water (ask me how I know...).  The products MicroSol and MicroSet as well as gloss varnish help.

 

If you look up the Awesome Paintjob channel on Youtube, his Blood Ravens video has a good segment on applying decals.

[Grotsmasha]

Here's one I whipped up in about 1hr, including waiting time,

 

I already had the model primed, so I started with Seraphim Sepia (Shade), using my detail brush I very carefully painted the was into the recess' only,

 

http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Grotsmasha/IMAG0457_zpsp1oua0cv.jpg

 

Once the Sepia was dry (I waited 30-45 mins) then gave the whole model a generous wash with Lamenter Yellow (Glaze). After 15 mins I gave the whole model a second generous wash with Lamenter Yellow,

 

http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/y464/Grotsmasha/IMAG0461_zps7hdadwdk.jpg

 

 

At this stage I'd call the armour done and start adding in details such as the eye lenses and soft armour ribbing.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[chrisdubya]

Oh so I need to buy a glaze? In your original post you said I needed a wash. Or will either work? Also just got my white spray primer. Will prime today.

[chrisdubya]

I used too much sepia, anyway to recover without stripping?

[NovemberIX]

Are you trying to save it, or start over again? Because you could just brush on some white. I'll be honest, I do my shading last, so I usually just layer in touch ups (if I'm not being lazy)

[Grotsmasha]

I used too much sepia, anyway to recover without stripping?

 

Yep, use Ceramite White on any area that needs to be re-base coated or tidied up.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[chrisdubya]

http://i.imgur.com/VMe2hSu.jpg

 

 

Did some of these for practice, will update on my imp fist.

[Grotsmasha]

They look great :tu: