ZONKEY Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Hi, I was just wondering if any one had advise on applying the dark angels chapter symbol transfer on to the shoulder pad as it never seems to wilt and match the curvature of the pad and remains unbending Any tips or tricks would be great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomanyprojects Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Hi I know it's probably not much use to you (I assume that you have already built your models) but the fact I couldn't get the transfers to bend aroun the compound curves of a shoulder pad is why I now go for moulded stuff. GW does a moulded DA shoulder pad: http://www.games-workshop.com/en-IE/Dark-Angels-Shoulder-Pads And don't forget that the models I dark vengeance all have moulded details, including the chapter symbol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONKEY Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 I have a load of those this for my devistators, looks like I will have to go for the metal shoulder pads I wonder though if cutting the clear bits of the transfer or leaving it longer in water would help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhg033 Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 old thread but relevant: http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/241765-decals-microset/?hl=%2Bmicrosol&do=findComment&comment=2923577 have to say I've not tried microsol/microset as i generally prefer to (badly) paint the icons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chaplain Lucifer Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 You can make two small cuts in the empty space between each wing and the sword so the transfer can curve a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONKEY Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thank you :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanhausen Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Also, you can try a bit of watered down alcohol, which will soften the actual plastic of the transfer. BE CAREFUL: alcohol will wipe your acrilic paints...so it's usually advised to put your varnish before ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gillyfish Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 What Luci said is accurate - making those cuts will help a lot, but be gentle - it makes it easier to tear them. I eventually gave up on transfers and started painting my own emblems. It's a little daunting to begin with, but actually quite quick and easy once you have some practice. You could potentially try it out on some ones on the sprue to see how you do. If you do go down that route then paint the vertical line for the sword first. Then add two dots towards the top where you want the hilt to be. Note that you aren't actually painting the sword - you're just figuring out where everything goes. Then paint two shorter vertical lines parallel to the sword. Try to make the two new lines equal lengths. They should stop with a bit of space before they approach the hilt outline. Then paint a gentle quarter-circle from the top of one of the parallel lines and do the same on the other side before painting a horizontal line to define where the top of the wings will be. You're aiming for symmetry here. You should now have an outline sword and an outline of the horizontal and vertical 'feathers' for the wings, plus an idea of where the hilt is. Thicken the existing lines, then paint two lines on either wing to define where the remaining 'feathers' will go. Try to keep them symmetrical and then slowly thicken those lines too. You can go over any mistakes with black then dark green. I'm aware that this is an awful description, but I don't have any pictures to hand! I hope it helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanhausen Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I'm aware that this is an awful description, but I don't have any pictures to hand! I hope it helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MinamotoKansuke Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I had the exact same problem as You with my Blood Angels, and I was angry as hell that I'm wasting decals for nothing and it's not looking right. Now I swear by the Microsol/Microset combo. You need a little bit of practice, but this + satin varnish = perfect emblem which looks like it's painted, it's not shiny and you can't even see the line where the transfer ends. Try it if you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother dean Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 I wrote one up... http://s3.zetaboards.com/The_Ammobunker/single/?p=8141428&t=177091 With pictures of what Luci is talking about: http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w20/fred40k2002/Transfers010.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZONKEY Posted July 4, 2014 Author Share Posted July 4, 2014 Thank you for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elmo Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 I trim as much of the excess decal off as possible then use a decal softening liquid (mine is revell) before sealing with matt varnish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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