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Questions about milliput.


Koriel

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Project: GreenStuff Stasis?

 

Seems to make more sense to mix the appropriate amount for the job than to try and make it keep after it's mixed. Or better yet, just get some Hose-&-Tentacle Makers like the ones at GSI. Ever since I got mine I never have waste sculpting medium, I just roll the leftover into hoses for a later use. Problem solved.

 

Yeah, I hear ya. For me it's the Milliput that tosses a wrench into that, though. I have zero problem mixing up a tiny bit of GS. For MP, though, I won't mix it unless I know I'm going to use a fair amount. And then, on top of that, if I'm mixing it with GS, the scope of the project has to go up a little bit more. Also, a 50/50 mix wouldn't stay pliable enough for making hoses later. GS does, for sure, but again my hangup is the Milliput. I really think we need to test out the freezer trick. 

  • 1 month later...

I've recently started mixing Milliput and GS a lot, having used the two separately for a long time. I find mixing some GS into MP makes it cleaner to use, stopping the MP getting all over everything. I always use MP for anything that needs structural strength or that I expect to need to sand smooth afterwards as pure GS just won't take that.

 

Finally, you may not know that you can mix regular plasticene into either putty and it will still set. I recently did some press moulding for a scenery project and tried 1/2 - 1/2 MP and plasticene and 1/3-1/3-1/3 MP/GS/Plasticene and liked the results. I'd go this way for basing work and so on as plasticene is cheaper than the other two.

I've recently started mixing Milliput and GS a lot, having used the two separately for a long time. I find mixing some GS into MP makes it cleaner to use, stopping the MP getting all over everything. I always use MP for anything that needs structural strength or that I expect to need to sand smooth afterwards as pure GS just won't take that.

 

Finally, you may not know that you can mix regular plasticene into either putty and it will still set. I recently did some press moulding for a scenery project and tried 1/2 - 1/2 MP and plasticene and 1/3-1/3-1/3 MP/GS/Plasticene and liked the results. I'd go this way for basing work and so on as plasticene is cheaper than the other two.

 

Whaaaaat? Really? Why would that work? That sounds like sorcery, which as you're well aware is heretical and anathema to the solidarity and health of mankind. 

 

But seriously, this works? 

Not sorcery at all. Plasticine is basically a clean clay that is mixed with oil or grease instead of water. Many plastics are just oil molecules being 'convinced' to link into chains. So, my guess is that the bonds that form in this concoction are stretched over/through the added molecules, and some of the oils might even take part in the process. I'd hazard to guess that the resulting hardened putty is somewhat softer, weaker, and/or bendable then a pure mix. But when you're working on something of scale with the right types of details the loss of strength won't matter. Good to know for bulk projects.

The tip came to me from a guy who works with vinyl toys, so generally much bigger projects with a different scale of detail, but it does work. The resulting material is softer and less flexible and more breakable, so I wouldn't use it unsupported, and I wouldn't recommend tooling it much after it has set (I sanded the backs on my pieces ok though).

 

If you'll excuse the non-PA picture, the gravestones down the side of this model were made this way:

 

http://i1147.photobucket.com/albums/o541/Shadespyre/WARHAMMER/Vampire%20Counts/New%20Vampire%20Counts/DSC01652_zps827fc52b.jpg

 

Furthermore, I would suggest that it is possible to "bulk out" GS/MP or a mix using fine powders like talc / baby powder, fine sand or so on, though I haven't tried that. But It works with two-part casting resins and araldite. I don't know whether you could get it to set with a high enough loading to add a lot of volume, but it'd be interesting to try.

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