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Problems with greenstuff


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Is the problem with gs not sticking to the model or getting it where you don't want it?

 

One thing I would like to advise is not putting it in hot anything as heat makes it cure quicker. That's unless you've got it sorted and then a spell under a hot lamp can work wonders

I find that after about 30-45 minutes GreenStuff will start to become considerably less sticky. It will still work fine if you put in a bit of extra effort, but it's nothing like when it's mixed fresh and wants to stick to virtually everything. You'd be surprised how quick the first 'golden hour' of sculpting time flies by when you're trying to get those little details just so; next thing you know you're struggling to get the GreenStuff to stick.

Make sure you're using some kind of lubricant for your tools. I use olive oil, and I've read of other people using Vaseline or talcum powder. Do not lick your tools to lubricate them, no matter what other hobbyists tell you.

 

If you still have problems with the GS coming off of the model, you can try scoring some lines in the area where the GS will be set down with a hobby blade to give it some tooth to grab onto, or put a small dot of superglue on the model and stick the GS to it, giving it a minute or two to dry. If you go the superglue route, make sure you glue the GS down in a spot where you have plenty of room to move it around to sculpt what you need.

Forget the hot water thing then, it won't help with what you're having trouble with. I get that sometimes, usually because it sticks to the tools more than the plastic so is pulled away from it when I try to sculpt. Try this: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_Green_Stuff

 

Or this: http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/07/working-with-greenstuff-how-to.html?m=1

Heat of any kind makes it cure faster, which shortens the amount of time you get to work with it. I've read a lot of tutorials over the years where people suggest mixing it up and then letting it sit for ~30 mins before using it so it's not that sticky, but I prefer to use it the instant I finish mixing it up, and with clay shapers and oil to lubricate them, I have zero issues with the stickiness.

The only other thing I can think of is that it is old. Most two-part plastics and epoxy putties have a shelf life and will start to stiffen on their own after 1+ years. With GreenStuff, you'll get exactly what is described, it mixes fine and seems ok, but just isn't that sticky. I really noticed this when I got a new batch of GreenStuff and it was super soft, workable, and sticky ebside my left over old product. If you don't use much it can last forever and you don't even notice that it's slowly getting harder to work with. Store extra GreenStuff in the freezer to greatly extend its shelf life to avoid this.

 

Note: Just because you just bought it doesn't mean it's not old. Many times it could have been sitting for quite some time before selling. Not saying this is the case, but just keep it in mind. Pick up some fresh Kneadatite and hopefully that will get the results you're looking for.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

The sites gave me alot of info to work with.

I have had the GS for a couple, three years now. Have used it only a couple times. So I'm sure that is part of the problem, if not the whole problem. Especially since my work station is in our garage, and is subjected to varies temps year round.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

The sites gave me alot of info to work with.

I have had the GS for a couple, three years now. Have used it only a couple times. So I'm sure that is part of the problem, if not the whole problem. Especially since my work station is in our garage, and is subjected to varies temps year round.

It will be the age of the gs causing the issue. You can still try the superglue method but I find this only useful if it's not detailed work. You could still use the gs if you get those tenticle/cable makers.

two things I keep an eye on when working with greenstuff...or any sculpting epoxy for that matter. 
 

first, make sure the ratio of parts is as close to equal as possible....yes there are reasons to have more of one part than another, but generally speaking an even mix will set you right and keep the material workable

 

second, lubricate your tools.  while water is a good lubricant for greenstuff, its not so good for other types.  I tend to prefer vasaline or petroleum jelly.  it doesn't take much there to keep the tools slick, just a dab then a light brushing across a paper towel to remove any overly excess material.  this will help keel the epoxy from sticking to the tool more than the surface youre working.

 

if these aren't helpful, then theres a third thing ill sometimes do, especially for particularly stubborn surfaces.  Sometimes ill rough up the area a touch with some fine grit sandpaper before I start in with the sculpting material.  it doesn't always help, but its helped more often than not

I have had the GS for a couple, three years now. Have used it only a couple times. So I'm sure that is part of the problem, if not the whole problem. Especially since my work station is in our garage, and is subjected to varies temps year round.

 

There's your problem right there. I had some greystuff go bad from age, and it wasn't pretty. Get you some new material, and order it online from someone that doesn't sell game or hobby stuff because they'll gouge you on the price. This was where I last bought mine from:

 

http://w.ivenue.com/anythingmechanicalinc/ecommerce/psi-epoxy/kneadatite.html

 

$12.50 for a 3 foot ribbon, version $8-10 for a 4 inch ribbon from game supplies. Pretty simple math, huh, Bob?

If you can find it, buy it in larger tubes. The Blue and Yellow compounds are kept separate so you don't get that annoying strip of cured GreenStuff in the middle where the two ribbons meet. The larger tubes are usually bit more expensive but you usually get the best price-to-volume ratio; pay 50% more and get 400% more GreenStuff. Store the extra in your freezer, in the tube provided, and it will last for years.

 

GhostLegion also brings up a good point; sometimes you have a small blemish or detail you want to fill with GS, but it's so subtle and small that the GS won't stay in the spot it needs to fill. Solution: Drill a tiny hole where you want to apply the GS. Now when you apply GS it has a hole that it can fill and lock into to keep it secure. Combined with keeping your tools lubricated, you can get do surprisingly repairs.

To some people it my be unappealing, but saliva has natural enzymes in it that give it a slight viscosity and sticking power without being oily; spit works very well on tools. It can be hard to train yourself but all you need to do place a small amount on the back of your hand and touch the tool to that in stead of licking the tool directly. Unfortunately these products are toxic, but it is debatable just how much exposure is too much. No need to add unnecessary exposure.

Kneadatite, or greenstuff, is classified as non-toxic, but as I've said elsewhere on this subject, that simply means it won't harm you by touching it with your bare skin. The makers never intended for people to be ingesting the stuff.

 

 

Don't lick your tools.

 

 

Or paintbrushes, for that matter.

Oh dear...I'm a brush licker too. Best way to get a good point. Becides, there's worse things that people happily ingest. Energy drinks, McDonald's, etc.

hehehe... Great comment! I'm a brush-licker too, keep telling myself it says "non-toxic" on the paint bottles...

 

I've had my greenstuff for years as well, luckily in two separate tubes, in a plastic bag. So it still works perfectly for my needs. Whenever I am having problems with the GS sticking to tools instead of miniatures, I just dip the tool in a little water, shake excess off, and there I go, problem solved.

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