Hyaenidae Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 So, I got a large batch of Tichy Train rivets from a train store many years ago (for making studded armour, etc), but I'm starting to run low, and am on the opposite side of the continent from where I originally bought them, lol. Does anybody know of any other companies that a a bit more web-friendly that carry something similar? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barabbas Sogalon Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Something like this? http://www.micromark.com/ho-scale-decals-with-raised-3d-rivets-and-other-surface-details,9968.html Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3804963 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 More like this. http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/v/vspfiles/photos/TTG-8077-2.jpg I tried the decal ones before, with very little success. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3804968 Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltraRich Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 Ive used these and found they work really well. Here we have 300 for 99p http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-10mm-Ivory-round-flat-back-acrylic-pearls-nail-art-card-making-/270999653749?pt=UK_Crafts_Embellishments_SM&var=&hash=item3f18d68d75 Edit: Ive got the 1mm ones which are in keeping with the scale. Ive also got 1.5mm but they only work on vehicles Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3804980 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durus Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 I used small 1mm beads for nail art for this. Just have to twist a drill bit a few times where you want to have them until you have a little dimple then glue them in with superglue. Those beads are pretty cheap, but look rather good. For hex nuts and bolts I just put a little bit of GS over some scale models and details on GW Ork kits to make press molds of them. Then I used a lighter to soften some left over plastic sprues to make the bolts and nuts from by pressing them into the mold while still soft. Just takes a second or so for the plastic to cool then you can cut them off. Will leave a nasty smell so do the whole 'well ventilated area' thing and try not to breath in the fumes. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3805105 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexington Posted September 9, 2014 Share Posted September 9, 2014 http://www.grandtline.com/products/mrr/mrr%20details/augmentables.html Favorite of Ork players everywhere. #156 round rivet head is the best for 40K scale, in my experience. The others are a little too small to use effectively, at least with the drill heads I've got available. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3805130 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted September 9, 2014 Author Share Posted September 9, 2014 Perfect, thank you Lexington! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3805137 Share on other sites More sharing options...
madscuzzy Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 What I usually do is to chop up pla-rods then sticking them down. 0.5mm is the smallest I can find, though I would like to find smaller ones. Most marine vehicles use about 0.75-1mm rivets. To soften them up, a spot of thin plastic glue helps to eat away at the sharp edges, rounding them off. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3809374 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomanyprojects Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Archers rivets do what are essentially waterslide transfers of lines of rivets. Being from the model train world they are available in all sorts if shapes and sizes. Take a look. I'll post a link later when I'm back from work Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3809381 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Archers rivets do what are essentially waterslide transfers of lines of rivets. Being from the model train world they are available in all sorts if shapes and sizes. Take a look. I'll post a link later when I'm back from work I tried the decal ones before, with very little success. Will Tichy not deliver to you? https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/SearchValue/rivet/Default.aspx Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3809392 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forté Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Caviar beads here (1mm glass beads). Though the rivets are tempting to look into. UK seller. http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargaming-materials-tools/augmentables-nuts-rivets-bolts.html?limit=all Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3811752 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 If you like working with styrene plastic (I know it's close to my heart) then these are the way to go. Just think of the labour savings; no drilling the 'just right' hole and trying to superglue a >1mm dot into it cleanly - just drill a tiny hole for the rivet post, drop it in, and touch it with some extra-thin glue. You even get a bit of adjustment room/time to get them just right. When I start adding round rivets in a serious way to future projects, this will be my go-to method. Too bad some of my larger builds can have 500+ rivets; but for a top notch prototype, it's worth it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3811829 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 What Subtle Discord said. The beads are a nightmare. Go with the rivets every time. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3811989 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyaenidae Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 Well, I prefer the rivets with the long posts due to certain nerve blocking meds I'm on causing my hands to shake, and loss of feeling in my fingertips. Itty bitty beads or super tiny parts usually result in me dropping said item a billion times, swiftly followed by a vicious expletive-laced tirade that would make my old Drill Sergeants blush. Thanks for the info, and I hope it helps others, but I'm afraid I gotta stick with the railroad rivets. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3811996 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Rohr Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 My Martha Stewart micro beads haven't been too difficult to use so far. They scale with the rivets on the mark 2 and 3 shoulder pads. I bought some brads too, at the same scale as the mark 5 should pads. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3812018 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seahawk Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Make a breadstick of greenstuff/putty of choice, roll it really really thin, dice it like a carrot, and presto you have a bajillion rivets of any size you want. ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296524-model-train-rivets/#findComment-3812446 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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