Idun Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Hey guys!! recently started my space wolves army around a month ago. I am quite happy with the progress of all my work so far. Have been quite busy at work and have decided to start posting my stuff here. Have recently posted on war seer but seeing that they don't have a dedicated forum to our beloved puppies i thought i should post here as i suspect there may be more traffic!! Anyway won't do too much talking here, Just wanna say hi and tell you what this is all about! I just took an army shot today of what i have done so far. Individual pics are of course available, just ask for them and i will post!! Anyway, what i have gotten done this month is: 1 Rhino 1 Drop pod 10 Grey hunters 5 scouts 5 Long fangs and my Wolf Lord (base not completed yet but he is.) Without further ado i present to you, the Hounds of Idun Led by Wolf Lord Kvarforth the Unbreakable. (also sorry for the cramped photos, my Photo Booth is DIY and therefore quite small ) Army shot: http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010334.jpg Only Vehicles: http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010337.jpg Only Troops: http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010336.jpg Random Rhino Detailing http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010332.jpg Kvarforth The Unbreakable awaiting his base! http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010338.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010340.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010339.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010341.jpg Thanks guys!! Will post here every now and then so do stay tuned!! And comments and Crits always welcome! Cheers Idun *edit: Forgot to mention that i am following a very dark pre heresy grey colour as I'm not a big fan of the cartoonish blue, and also since these guys have been stuck in the eye of terror for quite a while, i will doing a heavily weathered look for all the models!! :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverik_girl Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 wow very nice work! a tutorial would be great for everybody here at the fang. What greys do you use? I too prefer the darker 30K grey than the 40K blue grey. I like grim dark, gritty looking wolves. Anyway I love the blue effect! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806072 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squark Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Err... Wolf Lords can't take assault cannons. Kvarforth is stuck as a regular wolf guard termies with that load out. Which is a pity, because you've obviously put a lot of work into him :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806086 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rune_Priest_Rhapsody Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Cool color scheme!! I think there is a bit too much of the glowing blue in the army, but that is only my personal opinion talking. And as Squark mentioned your amazing looking Lord is a 'bit' illegal... oopsie. And lastly, welcome to the Fang!! End of Line Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806124 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 @ squark: hehehehe i know, but as i said i don't play its just for my own display purposes. Wanted him to look like a bad mofo, and well any other choice of weapons wouldn't make that work But thanks anyway for pointing it out!! But just out of curiosity In the SW codex it says that a wolf lord can upgrade to terminator armour, and from there take any weapon from there terminator weapons. And this might seem stupid, but isn't an assault cannon a terminator weapon?? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806128 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FenrisWolf Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Unfortunately, that is not in the Terminators Weapon list. You can only get a heavy weapon in the Wolf Guard Terminator unit. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806141 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valerian Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Awesome! And welcome to The Fang! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806220 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FenrisWolf Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 And yes, your painting effects are tremendous! I too would love to know the method for your grey. Your lighting effects are beyond me, as I don't have an airbrush, however. They are stunning though! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806223 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urauloth Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 pff, run him with Frostfury. Counts-as will save you. Impressive looking force you have there! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806227 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrotherJim Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Yes very nice space wolves you have there brother! The Fang is the place to be though you might try the regular WIP forum also. I particularly like the moon on your rhino, nice one! Jesus man must have been a busy month!!! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806302 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Token Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Lots of redheads. Source lighting, or what it is called, is good. Liking the main color. Is Kvarforth body from the anvil of Fenris, whatever his name is..? You could Count him as a Grey Knight captain, or whatever they are called, as they are allowed to have psycannons, the grey Knights cannon similar to an assault cannon. Hm, checking gw's site there is a new Grey Knights codex out, in the old one i have they could have the psycannon atleast, not sure about the new one. Joke: You could have a special rule about your dreadnought, where a sniper round could instakill him, if they roll a 6 after hitting. Dont Think i have seen a bareheaded dreadnought Before, cool idea. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806307 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Inquisitor Kravin Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Beautiful army. I love your limited palette. The red hair and blue OSL work wonderfully against the dark grey. I add my name to the list of those calling for a tutorial. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806323 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reede Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Holy wow those models are sexy! I'm definitely in agreement that I would love to see a tutorial on the Blue OSL you do. Going to have to paint some lights on my vindicator soon, so that would probably be a blessing xD. Keep up the amazing work. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806498 Share on other sites More sharing options...
spjaco Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Tutorial is most definately needed. I am jealous of your painting skills. Pull up a keg, not a tankard of ale and please elaborate as to how you accomplished this! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806537 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 11, 2014 Author Share Posted September 11, 2014 Holy snap guys!!! i have had alot more traffic here and i have gotten more replies here in one day than i have in one month on any other forum!! Thanks so much for the feed back and Comments guys!! Really really appreciate it alot and i am glad you all like it!! Firstly Thanks to all of you guys!! Since its been quite a common request will start with a quick tutorial. This one is only written but will be making one with photos soon!! May consider making a video as well but as of now hope you guys don't mind!! And in advance I'm really sorry but i use an airbrush. But believe me with a soft bristle brush you can achieve pretty much the same if you dry brush!! Armor:1)prime with vallejo grey primer2) (this is optional if you want the chipping effect) cover whole model in any dark brown colour. i use either vallejo charred brown or VMA Nato Brown and a few random patches of vallejo parasite brown or vallejo beasty brown.3)nice proper coating of gloss varnish4) thin (i cannot stress this enough) coat of Vallejo chipping fluid. (hair spray method works too, but vallejo has passed me some stuff to use for some reviews so i am using that.5) coat the whole model very well with 2 or 3 thin coats of Vallejo Sombre Grey6) Spray at a diagonal downward angle VMA cold grey7) use warm water and an old brush and rub areas where u want the chipping to be seen. be very careful with this step because the chipping fluid is extremely effective.8)let it dry properly first before giving another coat of gloss varnish.9) wash with vallejo Lavado wash black 1:1 mix with water. Place it carefully and watch the pooling. The advantage of doing this with the gloss coat is the wash flows more smoothly and clean up is much easier. (once the wash is ALMOST dry, use a damp brush and clean up any pooling or whatever you don't want. 10) SATIN VARNISH THAT BAD BOY and voila!!! u got a nice gritty wolfish colour.Flesh:1) Grey primer2) cover in Vallejo Heavy skintone3)wash with GW agrax earthshade4) highlight once with Heavy skintone5) keep adding small amounts of any bone colour and keep going till you get what you want. Metallics: 1) VMA gold2)wash with Agrax earthshade3) Clean up with VMA goldweathering: Use any pigments u like that are brown or blackish in colour. Also for the OSL lighting. I use 3 colours and spray in concentric circles each being smaller than the one prior. I use VMA french Blue, Ice Blue and White in the middle, and make sure that i don't clean out the cup between each colour change as this gives really nice and smooth colour changes!! HEhehehe now on top the next topic!! Thanks guys for all the input about how to field Kvarforth!! much appreciated!! hehehe but yeah that will be a problem i face later as i probably won't ever field this army. @jimmy: oh yes it has been one hell of a busy month. This is just my own personal work along with a burgle lord for a painting comp. On top of this the amount of commissions i have been doing is crazy: 1 lysander, 1 helbrecht, 60 tyranid gargoyles. Have assembled 200 Death Korps models. a whole bunch of malifaux and hordes too. so yeah I'm pretty exhausted hehe but it was well worth it. Wife isn't too happy tho as she feels a little neglected but i am all hers this weekend anyway some people have PMd me and asked for close ups of the grey hunters and some other stuff! At this point the axe on the guy wasn't completed yet. http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/P1010172.jpg Back http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/P1010173.jpg Also some of you guys asked for shots of the interiors of the Vehicles. Here is the rhino interior before assembly http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010301.jpg Drop pod interior shot when assembled http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/P1010216.jpg Interior before assembly: http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/P1010194.jpg Also i took this photo with and extra strong light and different light settings so the grey colour is extremely off but it shows at least what the chipping effect does on the armour from the tutorial. http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010241.jpg And lastly, here is a comparison of the OSL from an airbrush and one i did with a regular dry brush a few months ago. the results may not be as drastic, but they do add to a nice amount of character to the model!! Airbrush http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010329.jpg Drybrush http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/58111_244458235693351_666846962_n.jpg anyway guys, sorry for the loooong post. Feel like i am giving tolkien a run for his money (stupid joke about the length of lord of the rings. its ok you can slap me. ) i will be starting some more stuff on monday so please do stay tuned!! I will try get 2 small picture tutorials done this weekend at least for the snow bases, and also for the OSL for those of you interested!! Thanks again guys for all the support!! Cheers Idun Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806727 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Urauloth Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 That's what VMA gold looks like? That's a sweet looking colour. I was planning on using AP weapon bronze for my wolves, but after seeing this I might have to get myself a pot of that stuff and try it out. Very nice work, glad you posted close-ups. Any chance of a closer look at the dread? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806841 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Very, very awesome. Would you recommend a particular airbrush? I am looking at possibly replacing my piece of crape with something better around Christmas time. Might be able to get a good deal on Harder and Steenbeck but not sure how they measure up? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806864 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FenrisWolf Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Also interested in the airbrush model info. As an aside, I would love some thoughts on this, as your drop pod model brought it to mind. When I see most people do the drop pods, they weather it with oil/grease stains running down from the top. I recognize this is how it would weather if you set the model down on the ground. But in operation, they're dropped from space and go through reentry. Physics says there should be streaking/ scorching towards the top. When it hits ground, the doors open and they wouldn't streak downwards nearly as much. I know they'd streak down after operation or in storage, but I would think that would be more surface effect that would then blow back in reentry and scorch and bind with the paint more (in fictional reality). I ask, because I'm going to build a couple and want it to be operationally valid. Plus it interested me as I teach physics and so want to figure it out for fun1 Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3806943 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 Good morning good folks!! some replies for you all!! @Kvlt Ghost: Yes i think its a magnificent colour. To be honest, i find that the vallejo Air metallcis are absolutely amazing and their colour is incredible. I have no idea why but the metallic element is so vibrant. I find it just as awesome as the Vallejo liquid metals or whatever they are called. The Vallejo liquid metallics have a few different shades of gold, but honestly depending on what washes you use you can achieve a very similar result and the VMA range is a WHOLE LOT cheaper. so at the end of the day its more convenient and wallet friendly to use the VMA. Also sine they are designed for airbrushes the paints are very thing. Desptie that they cover really well and due to them being so thin they are an absolute pleasure to work with. For my Boltguns and such i use the VMA range as well. Really worth the try!! And also here are some shots of the dread for you!! http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010323.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010326.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010325.jpg http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/Space%20wolves/P1010324.jpg I have reworked the snow on the base since this picture was taken. Its much thicker now and more wet looking as if its melting. But yeah at least the model is untouched if I'm not mistaken!! @Skeletoro and Fenriswolf: I am currently using a gravity feed Sparmax Max-3. Its quite a good airbrush and i think its very comfortable to work with. I have quite fat hands and i don't have a huge grip so it rests very well in my hand. its a .3 nozzle which can give you a quite big spray and also very fine sprays so its a very good all round model. However my compressor is just and un named china compressor and i work with anything from 5 psi- 15psi but average on 10 psi for most things. I use an airbrush maybe 6-7 hours a day and as a result i don't think its worth buying an expensive compressor coz it breaks very fast as not even a high end compressor can take the heat from 7 horus of work. But all in all i think sparmax is quite a good airbrush for what you pay. Its not too high end and not a cheap piece of crap. However as with all airbrushes, its important to clean it because if you forget to clean it properly then your gonna have a really horrible time. Also for cleaning i recommend getting and ultrasonic cleaner. U can get them for quite a reasonable price on amazon and they do a good job. and when it comes to thinning paints and stuff i don't usually thin the vma products, but for non air brush patins i use windex to thin. Works fine for me. Alot of people say that the windex damages the airbrush and honestly thats complete bull. The airbrushes are designed to work with much harsher chemicals for cleaning esp when it comes to painting hot rods and bikes and what not, and those are some really harsh and toxic patins so you need really harsh and toxic cleaners so its really not an issue to use windex. BUT of course do use it in a well ventilated room. also to be honest, i have an unbranded airbrush as well. I think it works pretty well. it looks exactly the same as the sparmax I'm using and it costs significantly less, but the life span of course is shorter. and its much harder to clean the interior of the airbrush even if you use an ultrasonic cleaner. honestly guys when it comes to airbrushes, the quality of the airbrush does of course play a part, but I'm telling you from my own personal experience (not everybody will lagree) that you can achieve exactly the same results with an unbranded brush as you can with a branded one. Its just a matter of how comfortable you are with the brush and how well you know it and how it works and stuff like that!! And to fenris wolf regarding the drop pod!! Yes of course you are right. when you consider re entry that will definitely leave much more "damaging" scorch marks upwards. I have actually thought about this and as a result i have painted entry burns on the bottom of the drop pod. You can't see to clearly on the photos i have paitned quite a lot of black scorch marks on the bottom as a result of reentry. but seeing that my black box is so dark and i have quite limited lighting its very hard to see. but when you look at how a a vessel looks when it enters an atmosphere it creates a kind of vacuum behind the vessel. Not quite sure how to explain it right so i will try show with a picture. http://shamaninthecity.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Reentry.jpg As you can see the top of the vessel is not really in contact with anything that would cause scorching marks going upwards and therefore i didn't really look into doing that. also i looked up some photos of real reentry vessels and i \ahve never seen any scorch marks going upwards (which actually surprised me) but kinda validates the theory i have that the top of the entry vessel doesn't really have too much scorch marks. http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-alWGSvDRihQ/TllwG9OtfDI/AAAAAAAAB48/bT-YEbvBI_o/s1600/Reentry.JPG The water stains going downwards are just from storage. Seeing that these guys have been travelling the Eye of terror for a VERY long time without proper means to refurbish their vehicles properly it has definitely let the wear add on and keep accumulating. Ofcoruse i have absolutely no idea if of the nonsense i just said makes sense or if its a valid theory and honestly if you teach physics you probably have a better grasp of how physics works than i do so i really can't say much to argue my point!! Do let me know what you think about my theory though!! either way at the end of the day, seeing that these are miniatures, alot of the effects we work with have to be exaggerated to make it look good. Like for examples if you look at somebodies face you wont see as many different shades of colors as we see on a model wit hall the browns and such. IF we were to see that on somebody i would really worried. What i am trying to say is that when it comes to details like scorch marks and stuff and water stains, as hobbyists we are always trying to make something that gives the wow effect when you look at it. At the end of the day as long as it loosk awesome i don't think ti matters too much!! Seeign that you are a physics teacher though i see why it appeals to you!! Sorry guys i am a little tired so brain isn't working too well, but i hope i managed to help you guys out with my answers. If you need any clarification on anything please do tell me!! thanks again for all the support folks stay tuned! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3807023 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 5-15 PSI! That's really interesting. I struggle to maintain 15-20 psi in my brush, even with VMA (and with any of the needles my brush came with). And I need to thin a lot to achieve that. I just got an ultrasonic. Maybe that will help. Anyway, I tend to go anywhere from 15-35. Am I doing it wrong? I definitely feel like I would like to be able to drop down to 10, for OSL effects anyway. I've had this horrible issue with paint occasionally going really tacky and with bits of crap in it, too. I think maybe it's due to my brush getting clogged. But perhaps I'm thinning my paint too much. I've been so worried about the tack monster, that I've been adding a touch of golden airbrush medium alongside the Vallejo thinner in case I've been over thinning. Supposedly the airbrush medium reduces tack. But I don't think this should be necessary and I'm actually worried it's doing more harm than good. Also. I think I may have identified part or all of the problem. My bottle of VMA Steel seems to clog up like crazy! I think I must have gotten a dud bottle. I might try filtering it through some gauze, or something. There's nothing more discouraging than having some really promising looking blood claws practically ruined by a clumpy mess of paint (especially when you only realise how truly bad it was once it's more or less dry and you've painted all 5). Regarding VMA metallics, I love them, but I have had a lot of issues with VMA gold separating like CRAZY. It just turns unto this horrid mix of verdigris and brown. And pretty quickly after buying it the greenish part starting drying in the bottle so now it's brown with green specks. And I really really like the GW gold palette. All four including the base/dry. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3807032 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 12, 2014 Author Share Posted September 12, 2014 5-15 PSI! That's really interesting. I struggle to maintain 15-20 psi in my brush, even with VMA (and with any of the needles my brush came with). And I need to thin a lot to achieve that. I just got an ultrasonic. Maybe that will help. Anyway, I tend to go anywhere from 15-35. Am I doing it wrong? I definitely feel like I would like to be able to drop down to 10, for OSL effects anyway. I've had this horrible issue with paint occasionally going really tacky and with bits of crap in it, too. I think maybe it's due to my brush getting clogged. But perhaps I'm thinning my paint too much. I've been so worried about the tack monster, that I've been adding a touch of golden airbrush medium alongside the Vallejo thinner in case I've been over thinning. Supposedly the airbrush medium reduces tack. But I don't think this should be necessary and I'm actually worried it's doing more harm than good. Also. I think I may have identified part or all of the problem. My bottle of VMA Steel seems to clog up like crazy! I think I must have gotten a dud bottle. I might try filtering it through some gauze, or something. There's nothing more discouraging than having some really promising looking blood claws practically ruined by a clumpy mess of paint (especially when you only realise how truly bad it was once it's more or less dry and you've painted all 5). Regarding VMA metallics, I love them, but I have had a lot of issues with VMA gold separating like CRAZY. It just turns unto this horrid mix of verdigris and brown. And pretty quickly after buying it the greenish part starting drying in the bottle so now it's brown with green specks. And I really really like the GW gold palette. All four including the base/dry. Hey again skeletoro!! well i prefer working with this psi level as firstly it lets you work with very thin layer of paint Especially when it comes to OSL. If you use anything higher than that a few things will happen. First if you use a very thin paint you will get the spider webs which suck, because once that happens on the model its usually to late. As a result you will have to repaint that area and start again. thats the first problem when you work with such a high psi. Also if you work with such a high psi a very large amount of paint will come out so you will get VERY thick coats of paint and they come out extremely fast which means you won't really be able to control it too much. If yo want to do OSL effects and such its important that you work with thin layers as when you look at the glow of a light source on a surface a small amount of the colour from the surface will show through. Unless yo hare painting power swords like and stuff its important to make sure that you let a small amount of the colour showing thats why its good to work with a low psi so a small amount of paint will come out and it will be very thin. The advantage of working with such a low psi is also that you don't have to worry too much about the spider web crap happening seeing that the air flow coming out is not so hard. And i can definitely not say your doing it wrong!! Everybody has their own way of doing things!! its just a matter of what you feel comfortable with and as long as you get the effect you want at the end of the day thats all that really matters right??? I mean i do a whole bunch of stuff that is considered unorthodox but it gets the result i want so who cares right?? ;) doth ever say you are doing something wrong. Art is a world to discover and experiment. Hmmmm when it comes to patins with small parts of tack in it could be for a number of reasons that i foresee. don't know if they are the reason ofcoruse but just some thoughts. i had this problem alot before i started to realise what was wrong esp when you use dropper bottles like Vallejo. After a while the paint dries and accumulates under the lid. As a result sometimes it falls into the cup of the airbrush when u squirt paint in. Same applies when you use the GW paints. If you dab your brush into the pot and sometimes you wipe off a little bit of the side some of the dry paint from the rim of the pot gets stuck. When you are filling ur airbrush u are usually to busy trying to think of other things to worry about this. And yes sometimes the brush does get clogged also. That is a definite one. Esp when the nozzle. The nozzle is so small and if your paints are not thinned right, it will clog the nozzle very fast. I suggest you remove the nozzle and clean that out. BUT BE VERY CAREFUL. The nozzle is extremely fragile. Airbrush medium does work, but don't over use it. if i use it i just use a very small amount but to be honest i try to stay away from it. It sometimes changes the colour a fair bit if you use to much between the wet paint with the dry paint. The wet paint might look great but the dry paint will look completely different. But one thing that does help alto of retarder medium. This relates to everything here also. It basically just makes the paint dry slower. This sounds like a bad thing(it can be) but the good heavily outweighs the bad points. Firstly, it minimises clogging of the nozzle. it also helps working with lower psi, and makes it more convenient for you to not waste so much paint (sometimes you need to refill your cup if the patin starts to dry a little bit) and so on. Also when you thin your paints, try to get a consistency of skim milk. This is the best reference i can give. This guys a very good and even spray. Also for the paint you were mentioning being a dud bottle. My vma metallics clog up real fast too. But in regards to the next point also its really important to shake them REALLY well before you use them. I shake them for a good minute before i use the paint and also i put on small marble inside all my vallejo paints as an agitator to help with the mixing. It ensures that all the components of the paint are well mixed!! also i tend to store my VMA bottles (only them) upside down. This makes sure that the metallic pigment is at the very top. but as i said, if u have an agitator it won't matter how you store them. This should solve your problem with VMA gold too!! ;) try shake it like a mad man for a minute first after that it should be pretty smooth. IF it doesn't help, you might wan an get some new patins perhaps ;) I personally hate the GW metallics XD i liked the old ones but absolutely despise the new ones muahahaha XD I hope this helps dude!! :D do let me know what happens in the future and it this helps! Cheers idun Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3807043 Share on other sites More sharing options...
FenrisWolf Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Good morning good folks!! And to fenris wolf regarding the drop pod!! Yes of course you are right. when you consider re entry that will definitely leave much more "damaging" scorch marks upwards. I have actually thought about this and as a result i have painted entry burns on the bottom of the drop pod. You can't see to clearly on the photos i have paitned quite a lot of black scorch marks on the bottom as a result of reentry. but seeing that my black box is so dark and i have quite limited lighting its very hard to see. but when you look at how a a vessel looks when it enters an atmosphere it creates a kind of vacuum behind the vessel. Not quite sure how to explain it right so i will try show with a picture. <clipped for size> The water stains going downwards are just from storage. Seeing that these guys have been travelling the Eye of terror for a VERY long time without proper means to refurbish their vehicles properly it has definitely let the wear add on and keep accumulating. Ofcoruse i have absolutely no idea if of the nonsense i just said makes sense or if its a valid theory and honestly if you teach physics you probably have a better grasp of how physics works than i do so i really can't say much to argue my point!! Do let me know what you think about my theory though!! either way at the end of the day, seeing that these are miniatures, alot of the effects we work with have to be exaggerated to make it look good. Like for examples if you look at somebodies face you wont see as many different shades of colors as we see on a model wit hall the browns and such. IF we were to see that on somebody i would really worried. What i am trying to say is that when it comes to details like scorch marks and stuff and water stains, as hobbyists we are always trying to make something that gives the wow effect when you look at it. At the end of the day as long as it loosk awesome i don't think ti matters too much!! Seeign that you are a physics teacher though i see why it appeals to you!! Sorry guys i am a little tired so brain isn't working too well, but i hope i managed to help you guys out with my answers. If you need any clarification on anything please do tell me!! thanks again for all the support folks stay tuned! Thanks for your reasoning and finding the pics! I'd love to see how you did the bottom of your pod. On a side note, I also love the heated metal effect you've used on the cannon and other places. Your runes on the standard are awesome too. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3807059 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 13, 2014 Author Share Posted September 13, 2014 Good morning good folks!! And to fenris wolf regarding the drop pod!! Yes of course you are right. when you consider re entry that will definitely leave much more "damaging" scorch marks upwards. I have actually thought about this and as a result i have painted entry burns on the bottom of the drop pod. You can't see to clearly on the photos i have paitned quite a lot of black scorch marks on the bottom as a result of reentry. but seeing that my black box is so dark and i have quite limited lighting its very hard to see. but when you look at how a a vessel looks when it enters an atmosphere it creates a kind of vacuum behind the vessel. Not quite sure how to explain it right so i will try show with a picture. <clipped for size> The water stains going downwards are just from storage. Seeing that these guys have been travelling the Eye of terror for a VERY long time without proper means to refurbish their vehicles properly it has definitely let the wear add on and keep accumulating. Ofcoruse i have absolutely no idea if of the nonsense i just said makes sense or if its a valid theory and honestly if you teach physics you probably have a better grasp of how physics works than i do so i really can't say much to argue my point!! Do let me know what you think about my theory though!! either way at the end of the day, seeing that these are miniatures, alot of the effects we work with have to be exaggerated to make it look good. Like for examples if you look at somebodies face you wont see as many different shades of colors as we see on a model wit hall the browns and such. IF we were to see that on somebody i would really worried. What i am trying to say is that when it comes to details like scorch marks and stuff and water stains, as hobbyists we are always trying to make something that gives the wow effect when you look at it. At the end of the day as long as it loosk awesome i don't think ti matters too much!! Seeign that you are a physics teacher though i see why it appeals to you!! Sorry guys i am a little tired so brain isn't working too well, but i hope i managed to help you guys out with my answers. If you need any clarification on anything please do tell me!! thanks again for all the support folks stay tuned! Thanks for your reasoning and finding the pics! I'd love to see how you did the bottom of your pod. On a side note, I also love the heated metal effect you've used on the cannon and other places. Your runes on the standard are awesome too. Sure dude!! will try to get some pics of the bottom of the pod for you this weekend!! and thanks so much for the kind words!! ;D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3808297 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Idun Posted September 14, 2014 Author Share Posted September 14, 2014 Hey guys! so sorry i have been a little busy and quiet. and unfortunately i see myself begin Extrmely busy for the next few months because i just made an agreement yesterday with some big clients that want about 7-8 4K point whfb armies painted. so yes, but will definitely find some time to work on my puppies!! regardless of that, i managed to make a very quick tutorial of how to do the OSL. In advance. i would like to say i am sorry for the absolute crap quality of the photos and this tutorial also shows very well how to not do certain things. But i made it in a hell of a rush. it literally only took me about 5 minutes as I'm really busy with other stuff. Also, alot of the steps are extremely exaggerated just so that you can see how its done, but i hope you get the hang of it and also its just done on a piece of paper. But anyway here we go. 1) First these are the colours you will need: http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/OSL%20tutorial/10707948_726238847449157_180239029_n.jpg I use either French blue or blue, depending on what colour is underneath, then its light sea blue, and after that any type of white. 2) Next step is to make a circle around the area that you want to have the glow effect. This gives you an area to work with and it makes it much easier for you to decide how you want the glow. Please note only do this very lightly as you this will eventually become the edge of the glow, and you don't want the colour there to be too strong. http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/OSL%20tutorial/10668595_726238884115820_1752827754_n.jpg 3) Continue filling the center of this ring and try to work in a circular motion, gives a good coverage and allows you to gauge how dark you want the colours to become. The closer you get to the middle the darker you want it to be. http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/OSL%20tutorial/10685121_726238934115815_517222187_n.jpg 4) Now don't wash the cup of the airbrush, but rather just add some of the light sea blue into there. this gives a nice blend between the colours. For this step do similar to the last step. Work in circular motions and move inwards until you reach the centre. again this gives you more control of the colour. Leave a bit of the dark blue showing. http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/OSL%20tutorial/10685107_726238990782476_1668220440_n.jpg 5) I SCREWED UP HERE SO SORRY ABT THAT. The last step is usually targeted at the exact light source, but now make a mix that is roughly 1;1 of the previous mix and the white. make it quite a small area and in the exact centre of the glow. I pulled a little too hard on the trigger and since i hadn't let the previous coat dry fully due to being in a rush, it kinda screwed up a little, but i believe that you get what i mean yours supposed to do!! :D http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g476/Naturalselect/OSL%20tutorial/10706510_726239017449140_777347238_n.jpg I hope this helps a little bit, despite the stupid error at the end. Hope this helps guys!! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/296567-blog-hounds-of-idun/#findComment-3808598 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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