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A marine that's lived long enough to suffer organ degradation from age would surely have earned a high-end prosthetic, or even a cloned organ replacement. But I think it has been mentioned that only the most disturbingly virulent diseases have any hope of making a dent in astartes physiology, barring extenuating circumstances like the marine being half dead to begin with, or you know, warp based pathogens.

 

Just did my first ever magnetisation in prep for the ETL.

 

 

Is is Karlaen? Or count as Belial?!?

Good! Good! Let the magnets flow through you!

 

EDC

 

 

It was not the most fun experience. 1mm magnets are tricky buggers.

 

The join isn't totally seamless but good enough for me. Hopefully it'll still hold with paint on!

 

I also realised I accidentally cannibalized a terminator for my DG that was supposed to be the squad sarge, so now I need some bits for that....

 

To the Electronic Bay!

 

*Batman '66 spinning transition*

 

 

Just did my first ever magnetisation in prep for the ETL.

 

 

Is is Karlaen? Or count as Belial?!?

Good! Good! Let the magnets flow through you!

 

EDC

 

 

It was not the most fun experience. 1mm magnets are tricky buggers.

 

The join isn't totally seamless but good enough for me. Hopefully it'll still hold with paint on!

 

I use 2x1mm magnets for my non-terminator models, and 3x1mm magnets for terminators. The trick to a VERY smooth join is twofold:

 

1. Use a pin to mark the centre of the hole, then a very small nail-punch (or sewing needle that I totally didn't steal from my girlfriend) to widen it. No bashing, no large amounts of pressure, just ease it in. Then you use the smallest drill-bit you have (for me it is 0.9mm) and start making the hole. Then use the next largest bit you have (1.5mm for myself) and then you just keep going up in the smallest increments you have.

 

2. If you go too deep with your drilling, use Greenstuff to fill it back in. Or you can do what I do and super-glue the magnet to a sheet of paper (its thick paper, maybe try card?) and THEN into the hole. This allows you to get a really flush fit and once its all set you just tear the paper off.

 

I guess that really is 3 things, but I'm lazy so it'll stay as 2 things.

Awesome stuff!

 

Thanks for the impromptu tips!

 

No problems, I have no idea who knows what when it comes to magnets. I see questions all the time on reddit and occasionally on here. I generally just assume that someone will find it useful eventually.

 

Also, if you're going to glue the magnet to a sheet of something, make sure you put a weight on top of the thing being glued into, else you can get some pretty interesting situations arise.

Any tips for when you bork the polarity?

 

(Note that you only do this once!)

 

You do like I did and have one Death Company marine with his very own exclusive backpack that literally no one else can wear.

 

If you've got room to spare on two sides, you can drill two small holes and then pull the magnet out with some needle-nose pliers, that worked on my first set of Terminators (gave to a friend, they were Ultra-latrines) when I was still using 1x2mm magnets.

 

I get around that now by having all my magnets in one long string, with two magnets painted red and green. I put the green side in when glueing.

 

EDIT: I should clarify, the green side goes towards the body, the red side goes towards the arms/heads/backpacks.

Edited by Paikis

I always have a model with magnets installed nearby when magnetising something, and glue the magnets in as if i were doing it for said model. In this way all my arms/weapons/backpacks are usable by all my marines.

 

Different note, got myself a Stormraven today, and I actually like it a lot more than expected! Fiddling around with it I noticed if you don't include the massive air intake on the top you have a 360 degree arc of fire... Is this allowed, as with it on you have about 180? If so, will I get 'those' looks for leaving it off (it also looks kinda weird imo...)?

If it's a turret, RAW it's a 360 fire anyway I think.

 

Yup, it's a full 360° regardless of the model.

 

It's interesting to note that on a Predator, the sponsons are 180° but if you have one of the older GW Mks (as in 1st or 2nd edition, not the Deimos variety), they are 90° like on a Leman Russ.

Oh yes, and sisters are getting plastics. I'll believe it when I see it :p

Don't tease me! My 'primary' army is SoB and it pains me that we lack basic plastics for troops etc. I started BA whilst awaiting an update for SoB as expanding that army was just too painful on the wallet (and heavy to carry).

 

Obviously I'm still waiting and now have a sizeable BA force :\

 

EDC

Oh you're not the only one there. I primarily build Bangels, but I split my play fairly evenly between my sisters and the lads. Mostly I'm just incredibly cynical about basically all rumours, and Plastic Sisters is a great (if maddeningly so) shorthand for an unlikely rumour.

Any of you guys got tips on stripping some paint off of a finecast model? Had my airbrush nozzle fail and ended up with a paint splutter effect =(.

 

I normally use Fairy Power Spray on plastic models but kinda worried it might pull some details off on resin.

 

Peace

Acetone free nail polish remover is good for removing paint from all model types, you'd have to be really (and I mean really really) careful with a resin model though as if you leave it too long it will damage the model. Soak for a couple of min, scrub with a tooth brush, repeat until your happy but stop if it starts going soft or falling apart/losing details. I recently used Biostrip 20 to clean a stormraven. Great results, haven't used it on resin though. If its 'green' credentials are anything to go by it might be okay.

 

Good luck!

 

EDC

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