Question for those my wolf brothers who magnetize

[Jochteas]

I was wondering a few things, name what size magnets you use where were typically do it? Also how do you paint it? Like do you cover up the magnet and paint it as an individual piece or attach it to the larger set and let it hold while you paint the model? Also for TDA I planned to magnetize them as well but for the life of me I don't know how one would magnetize the assault cannon because it has the backpack component, any advice?

 

Edit:

 

Things I'm looking to Magnetize

 

2 GH a pack (to change special weapons as needed)

TDA

TWC

 

Vehicles (Rhinos/LRC/Stormwolfs etc...)

[Donkalleone]

There are plenty of Tutorials on Tube and Diffenrent Sites. Even in this FOrum

[Jochteas]

Yes, Ive looked at some, yet first hand experience shouldn't be discounted, and I was looking for people who can provide feedback on their experience with said practice.

[Brother Dallo]

I use 2mm by 1 mm round magnets from ebay. Drill a 1 mm deep hole into the torso, then drop a magnet in with a drop of glue and you're done. I wouldn't bother painting the magnets. No one will see them, and it will make the bond weaker. For the special weapons swaps, put magnets in each of the arms, glue the hands to the gun so you have one solid piece, then put magnets in the torso. In terms of painting the bits, I normally have them separate. I sometimes stick the arms tomy knife blade, to give me something to hold when I paint it.

 

Hope this helps

 

Dallo

[elmo]

I can help out with some of your questions...

 

My Vehicle tutorials

 

Predator / Rhino

 

Vindicator / Rhino

 

Land Raider Ares / Crusader / Redeemer

 

I have now standardised my magnets to N52 strength in the following sizes (in mm)

 

2 x 1

3 x 1.5

6 x 2

 

For TDA I use the 3mm magnets in the torso and in the arms as I found the 2mm was not strong enough to stop weapon droop especially on assault cannons. On the following photo you can see where they are in the torso.

 

http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz66/jonbrooks_photo/P6200001_zps8f71781c.jpg

 

There are some in depth explanations on how to use magnets on the AM forum here

 

Hope this all helps :)

[skeletoro]

I try and use 3mm or more, n52 wherever humanly possible.

 

one thing I cannot recommend enough is a dremel/rotary tool. They are amazing for making a tight housing for a magnet with very low tolerances (e.g. Fitting a 3mm magnet into a wrist/hand joint).

 

when magnetizing I try to couple a magnet join with some sort of peg/notch if possible so that th Te piece won't rotate or flop around so much.

 

also, if you can manage to preserve the shoulder pad so that it is attached to torso rather than to a shoulder, this can save time and work, especially if you are putting a pelt or using a rarer shoulder piece.

[Rune_Priest_Rhapsody]

I drill without an actual electric drill. I use my hands or in the case of smaller magnets, with a hand drill (GW or other).

Magnetize your TDA where the arm meets the torso.

Magnetize GH/TWC where the wrist meets the arm or where the arm meets the torso. The later being able to use the same sized magnets as the TDA.

 

There are a couple different companies that make magnets that will include a drill bit of a corresponding size. I cannot tell you their names, sorry.

 

End of Line

[skeletoro]

a dremel is far superior to an electric drill for this purpose because of the low torque. It won't tear pieces apart like a drill will.

[Vykryl]

I use an electric drill, I find it easier to control than a drimmel. Most drills are variable speed if you're lite on the trigger. Use a sharp knife to start a guide hole/divet so your drill or drimmel won't wander.

 

I used 1/8 by 1/16 magnets at first (3x1.5mm?) as that is what my local store had. I think the larger pack I ordered and will be using soon are 3x1 mm. I also have 1/4 by 1/16 I used for dreadnought arms, think they came from my wife's jewelry stuff.

 

I have only magnetized arms and packs so far. My TWC have magnets in their saddles

[Hrolf the Cunning]

I think it's already included in Elmo's tutorials but it is really worthwhile keeping the polarity consistent across the collection. It helps to maximise interchange of loadouts between packs and minimises risk of getting the odd magnet back-to-front

[Baulder]

As most have indicated 3mm magnets do the rick for TDA/Marine shoulder sockets. 1mm thickness make them quite easy to conceal and anything n45 upwards should be strong enough. Personally to put them in I use a 3mm drill bit (recommend one for metal as wood drill bit have a different shape and masonry have a tungsten tip that can give an uneven shaped hole). Just drill it by hand, no need to use an actual drill, it is only plastic and a little bit of pressure should be fine. What I do then is to use a match (with a little bit of pva on the end, enough to pick up the magnet) and then drop some super glue into the socket and press the magnet in. Just make sure you get the magnets the correct way around so that the arm doesn't get repelled.

[Valerian]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2eH2Mdr4Gg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BqdzpUkIpxo

This two part tutorial on how to magnetize infantry models was especially helpful to me.

Here are some demo pictures from one of my Grey Knights (Space Wolves were built years before I ever thought to magnetize, unfortunately):

The magnets at the shoulders are N52 1/8" by 1/32" and the magnets in the wrists/weapons connections are N52 1/16" by 1/32".

Valerian

[gwarsh41]

I magnetize everything at the shoulders using 1/8th magnets and my dremel. All my TWC, and TDA are magnetized, and I have 11 marines who are magnetized for Wolf guard/ special weapons. 

 

I have 3 long fangs as well, but I don't plan on using them often. 

[Coverfire]

So I just purchased the Stormrider with our lovely new model of Logan; and about half way through I realise that the skiff isn't large enough for a base for Logan.

 

Realising this half way through the build makes what I thought would be the most ideal magnetising option, impossible. So now it looks like I will have to drill into the stormrider or purchase logan from somewhere else.... OR just use the old model whist he is on foot. Which by the looks of his 3 HP is most of the time.

[Ironwulf]

Coverfire- I'm not sure I understand your intent with Logan-- Were you planning on including a 40mm base IN the skiff as part of your magnetizing scheme? I've been slowly working on magnetizing Grimnar's feet to the skiff, and have been relatively successful so far. (Well, absolutely successful. Just not a drop of paint on either Grimnar nor his skiff so far…)

[MalachiOfRuss]

I magnetized all my TWC and TDAWG.  As with others, I used 1/8" by 1/32" magnets where the shoulder meets the torso.  

 

To keep the polarity consistent I picked one model as the "base" and put magnets in the torso and arms.  Then when I go to do the next model, I magnetize the arms first but match them up to the first model's body, then I go to the second model and put the magnets in the torso matched to the arms.  This way you will have any arm fit any torso.

 

I also magnetized the Assault Cannon and it's not as tricky as you think.  I just put a 1/8" magnet in the arm holding the AC like anything else.  Glue the whole ammo belt and backpack together with the arm and gun.  I found that the whole thing was rigid enough that I did not need to put a magnet in the backpack part, it sits fairly snug and well in that "back vent" area of the TDA armor.  There are even two little pegs on the top of the AC's ammo backpack that help it sit in there.

 

I order my magnets from K&J Magnetics.  You need to order in quantities of about 100 to make the shipping worth it, but the prices are great.  This is the specific magnet I use for almost all my arm swaps.

[Coverfire]

Coverfire- I'm not sure I understand your intent with Logan-- Were you planning on including a 40mm base IN the skiff as part of your magnetizing scheme? I've been slowly working on magnetizing Grimnar's feet to the skiff, and have been relatively successful so far. (Well, absolutely successful. Just not a drop of paint on either Grimnar nor his skiff so far…)

 

If I had realised before I had started I would have glued a magnet under the floor of the skiff, now I feel the better option is to widen the slot where is right foot goes and magnetise his right foot. I originally had also glued the keel on backwards thinking that it was a slipstream until I tried to glue it to the base and found it didn't fit. Yay!

 

At present I have the keel, and the two wolves glued down, the rest of the rig is removable until I get a chance to undercoat it, and probably a base coat on the underside to before I glue it all down.