Best style brush and technique for glazing large surfaces?

[Ovidius Incertus]

I want to apply glaze to a vehicle.  What's the best process to prevent ponding or brush lines messing up all my nice airbrush shading?

[Interrogator Stobz]

The absolute best is to use an oil glaze, they are the business to apply.

If you are more like the rest of us and like to stick with Acrylics then add a tiny bit of thinners to your glaze when it is in a pallet etc. that will help it flow better and pool/pond less. You should still be applying it with the mini/model upside down and be prepared to use a wet brush to remove any lines as they appear.

I use a Tamiya 10mm brush for my glazes/washes they hold a tonne of paint/ink/wash/glaze etc and release it nicely as you apply pressure. I also just bung it on hard and fast and spend the drying time chasing the pool lines away I aimed at having my Landraiders weathered looking, the same method used more carefully still works too.

Have a look at the last couple of pages (37-38) of my blog (in my Sig) to see if you like that technique on white.

stobz

[Subtle Discord]

Stobz has got it; broad good quality (at the very least, new) brush that you work with quickly to try and keep the edges moving and flowing. Try to work in sections broken down by surface or other 'edged' areas; don't be afraid to let small sections that are successful dry before moving on. Take the time it's going to take, don't rush it by trying to do it all in one go, but the places you're working on mush be done fast.

 

A second large brush clenched in your teeth (or held criss-cross style in your hand) is critical. Keep it clean and damp and swap it to blend and smooth edges, keeping the pigments from forming any of the ringed edges you're trying to avoid. Again, when in large areas speed is critical for both adding the wash and also blending edges. Since you have an airbrush, you might want to consider using it, if the job can be done that way. The smooth even coverage with control would do well, I would think, but I've never had the privilege of owning one; someday...

 

Finally, get some Liquitex Flow Aid to add to your thinning water. This stuff is amazing for painting in general, helping paints flow and blend smoother and easier, but it's really great with glazes and washes; it dramatically helps with the ringing at the edges of  drying areas and makes the process much less daunting.

 

Washes and glazes tend to be a bit sloppy by nature, but produce such wonderful depth that they are hard to beat. I find it best tot try and to major glazing up front, and try to clean up the mess afterward. I understand that unfortunately, depending on the scheme/process for a certain result, it's not always an option.

[Lorenzen]

Are you wanted the glaze to be even or too pool in the recesses? If its just a filter airbrush it on, if its to run into recesses etc put down a layer of glosh varnish 1st as it reduces the surface tension and helps the wash run into those cracks better.