Jump to content

House Col'khak - Heresy-Era Knight Household


KBA

Recommended Posts

Ever since researching Legio Atarus in Book II, I've been intrigued by their attached house, Col'khak. Then the Citadel Knight kit came out, and I really wanted to dive in and do Col'khak, but was swamped with work. Fast forward to Christmas and this happens from my lovely girlfriend (Acheron) and the in-laws (Paladin/Errant):

http://s21.postimg.org/77h58pbwn/P2022012.jpg

As far as fluff and paint schemes go, it seems like Forge World has left this House wide open (for now). So with that, I'll have to go my take on them, and if FW comes out with schemes, it'll have to be a case of plugging my ears and yelling 'la la la la' laugh.png

That said, I want a scheme that's brilliantly colorful. I don't care if it meshes with Legio Atarus' creme/red scheme or my Raven's black. A few months ago, I watched the documentary on Jodorowsky's Dune which floored and inspired me. Everyone should watch it! In it, Chris Foss' concept art amazed the :cuss out of me. It was exactly what I wanted for a futuristic knight house where pizazz, flashiness, and a sense of regal class come to the fore of my imagination. So this image will be the foundation of my scheme:

http://s1.postimg.org/gxp12yz27/dune4f_4_web.jpg

The fact that it reminds me of Harlequins just reinforces the direction I'm headed! I've got a beast of a walker waiting for assembly and paint for Legio Atarus, so modelling and painting these should help with experience for that.

Progress to come!!!

A Knight house colored like a Lululemon exploded?

 

Count me in.

 

Hahaha. Mmmm yoga pants..

 

I remember reading a review for the Speed Racer movie that came out years ago. In it, he described the experience as doing drugs and melting skittles over his eyes. If I can land somewhere in between that and your lulue imagery, I'll be a happy hobbyist!

I dunno man, after Flints, Fortes and other in the chaos section doing eye-searing fluorescent colors (mainly pink), you've got your work cut out for you.

 

 

If you can make me regret having eye balls with your painting, you'll be on the right track :tu: :p

 

 

On a more serious note, I bid you good luck for such a scheme will probably test you.

Needs more Styrix. Either way, followed.

Funny you should mention! I had planned to add another Errant, but that Volkite chieorovile just screams awesome to me. The rest of the kit sucks is not my thing, so the shin guards, shoulder pads, top armor, and head will all get the toss in favor of the more traditional knight parts as to keep the theme cohesive.

I dunno man, after Flints, Fortes and other in the chaos section doing eye-searing fluorescent colors (mainly pink), you've got your work cut out for you.

If you can make me regret having eye balls with your painting, you'll be on the right track thumbsup.giftongue.png

On a more serious note, I bid you good luck for such a scheme will probably test you.

Definitely going to be a challenge, but challenge accepted! I've already begun digging through the fluorescent-gurus-of-the-board's threads, along with a few Imperial Fist ones laugh.png. First up will be the Errant.

http://s18.postimg.org/qtvzlg84p/knightwip1.jpg

Ready for stage 1 paint! Going to paint this beast without the armor plates on it first, so I can really get in there, and not worry about getting searingly bright colors all over my metals. Oh, and pardon the contortionist in the background teehee.gif

A little paint! and some posing.

 

 

http://s1.postimg.org/ccbxd5i7j/knightwip2.jpg

 

Pose:

 

Since I'm probably going to run two of these Errant patterns, I wanted to make them somewhat dissimilar beyond colorway. What I decided to do was make this knight an orthodox with his reaper on the right. This didn't really require much tinkering, aside from flipping the melta cannon's shield upside down and snipping a tiny pipe. The bigger cable will have to be snipped off and replaced with guitar string or a GS cable so it doesn't defy gravity so much. The little hole on the shield will be filled in with GS and become a view finder. I turned the knight to his side, as if parrying a blow and readying to fire his weapon in return.

 

Paint:

 

I wanted to stay away from harsh metals, instead going for gold and copper tones for the frame. I'll be working with bright pinks, oranges, and yellows for the plates, so I wanted something that will complement those instead of a cold contrast something darker would bring. This is the first layer, and inspiration for the scheme came from the Mark 21 Midas suit from Iron Man:

 

 

http://s17.postimg.org/lns52q8cf/Iron_Man_M21_Midas_010.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Well this project is quickly going down the toilet. I don't think I've been more infuriated in all my years in this hobby. Trying to airbrush with Games Workshop paints is like trying to fit a square plug into a round hole. Pretty much ruined my knight as far as I'm concerned. While doing the yellow and purple plates, the airbrush kept applying the thinned out yet still fast drying acrylics with a stippled effect. These :cussty pictures don't really show anything -- not the difference in color tone between the gold and copper on the frame, nor shading on the plates, and not the problem I'm currently whining about. Best example of the unintentional stippling is the above shot on the Knight's right shoulder pad. Thank god I ruined this knight and not the Forge World one.

 

http://s15.postimg.org/4ym5mmnrv/P2212033.jpg

http://s15.postimg.org/jf9f17d97/P2212037.jpg

That sucks but I think you should be able to strip that no problem.  Generally I don't run much GW paint through any of my airbrushes but when I do I make sure to put 2 parts airbrush thinner and 1 part water into the mix so it'll  apply smoothly.  

Super Clean has brought me back from waving firearms at children. I heavily thin the stuff and still it jams and gums up the brush. This seems to be a hobby-wide problem; buy airbrush designed paints, or shoot the craps with GW and thinner/windex/water. The armor plates are completely stripped, and I've started round two. The saving grace of this all is I don't think the yellow and purple/pink is going to work. Seeing it on the Knight kinda made me wish I went all purple/pink with black chevrons and checkers. As my old man always says; 'put it in the dark room and see what develops'.

Hmmm I'm glad it worked out, but I think we can fix your problem with GW paints. I spray them quite often without any troubles.

 

Couple questions:

What is your psi?

How thin are your paints?

And less likely, are they well mixed?

 

I shoot GW out at 40. This is pretty well the recipe I follow, though instead of using windex, I use airbrush thinning medium. Thinking about switching to windex as I've heard it doesn't really affect the paints, and doubly acts as a cleaner as you use your airbrush. I spend about 3 minutes per pot mixture mixing the paint and thinner until I find the half-and-half cream and milk consistency with no lumps.

Glad to hear you were able to clean the lumps off, but sad you're changing the scheme. I quite liked the yellow and purple/pink. Made me think of when I first discovered 40k & Epic via old White Dwarf issues in my school library, and saw all the ridiculously brightly coloured minis (including Epic Knights). Still, purple/pink & black will also look fantastic. Good luck with your airbushing!

Wow that's a lot of mixing time! That's good, I'm just lazy. We can definitely rule that out as an issue. :)

 

However, the other two are very likely your culprits. I'm sure you've heard this before so I won't belabour the point: thin it down a lot. I've always found the "milk" advice hard because I don't often stir my milk with a toothpick or pay great attention to its viscosity. My way is by watching the film my paint forms on the walls of my mixing jar/cup. It should barely leave a translucent colored film.

 

Also, I've heard of people using windex, but I cannot recommend it. I use it as my cleaner and it strips the acrylic paint quite nicely. It does not seem ideal for a thinner. I use water, generally, with maybe a little flow-aid. I recommend water - usually a jug of purified water will cost a dollar and last forever.

 

Now this is the big one: 40 psi is way too much. With properly thinned paints, your aim is always to use as little pressure as possible. For nicely thinned Tamiya, I use about 5-7 psi. For GW, typically 15-20, while Vallejo is stubborn and usually needs 20-25. This will almost certainly contribute to the problem you experienced. (These numbers will always shift based on your airbrush itself, the nozzle/needle size, etc.)

 

I apologize if I seem condescending, that is not my goal at all! I spent many years with historical aircraft before starting miniatures. Aircraft are 90% airbrushing, so that experience has been quite helpful to me.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.