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Tell me about that chainsword, please!

 

First of all: wow guys, thanks for all the nice words, means a lot!

Regarding the chainsword, It´s the Forge world MK3 two handed chainsword with the hands cut off and fitted with a resculpted grip, which was added to the legion praetor terminator arm. 

 

 

Welcome to the forums, brother. Excellent model, I must say.

 

For now, I´ll leave you with a pic of a heresy BA praetor I did a while back for the Forge World euro open day. Thanks for looking!

 

 

Amsterdam, was it?

 

Yeah it was in Amsterdam indeed. I live about a 15 min drive from there which was nice!

 

Again thanks for the interest, more pics of my stuff are incoming!

Hey guys!

Until I sort out some good pics of the rest of my army, here are some different angles of the praetor!

Also, these pics aren't the best quality as they are done with a phone but you get the idea!

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Here's a quick pic of a libby I finished a couple of days ago. He's not finished to the same standard as the praetor, as spending 100+ hours on a model isn't really doable when trying to complete an army in a reasonable amount of time :wink:

Cheers!

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Recipe for the Praetor, please? I've tried a metallic red before but it wasn't bright enough.

 

 

Recipe for the Praetor, please? I've tried a metallic red before but it wasn't bright enough.

 

I'm pretty sure that the praetor was done using a NMM technique. 

 

 

Here you go!

 

Red: 

Base: Mephiston Red, Wazdakka Red 1:1

Shade: Base, Xereus Purple 2:1 + brush tip of black, then adding more black and purple until I had a very dark mix for the deepest shadows (about 5 additional mixes).

Highlights: Base, Evil Sunz Scarlet 1:1, pure Evil Sunz, Evil Sunz, Wild Rider Red 1:1, pure Wild Rider, then White was added to Wild Rider in loads of steps, final light spots with pure white. After the highlights were done I glazed the transitions with various very diluted (10+ parts water to 1 part paint ratio) red mixes until it felt 'right'.

 

The armour was indeed done in an NMM style, by gradually painting smaller and narrower vertical lines as the colour turned brighter with each mix. Pairing this with really dark shadows and 'bright spots' in specific locations creates the shiny surface look.

 

Bonus recipes! ;)

 

Gold:

Base: Gehenna's Gold

Shade: Base, Xereus Purple 2:1 + brush tip of black, then adding more black and purple until I had a very dark mix for the deepest shadows (about 5 additional mixes).

Highlights: Base, adding more and more Vallejo metal medium in about 5 steps, glaze with W&N yellow ink, final light spots were done with pure metal medium.

 

Green (gems, lenses):

Base: Caliban Green, black 2:1

Highlights: Caliban was gradually lightened by adding Warboss Green to the base, after which white was added up to almost pure white (loads of steps). The glow effect underneath the lense was done by carefully glazing the area with Warboss Green + white in about 3 stages. Final light spots were done with white.

 

Cheers, hope it helps!

  • 1 month later...

Hey guys!

Update time, prepare for pic spam!

First up, tac squad with their razor.

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Meltacide ASM with their ride.

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Sicaran

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Fraggies

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And finally some WIP bikers. Also making progress on my Deredeo dread for the ETL. Waiting for my new shiny BA transfers for that one, but should have some pics up soon. Cheers!

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Some of the best BA I've seen in a long time, much kudos!

 

Your standard is super high, so don't think I'm sniping. :smile.: The snow bases need to have some ice to look more realistic, imo. A bit of ice blue/ turquoise ice under the snow would remedy this.

 

Don't forget to add streaks to the side of the tanks; far too many leave this effect off.

 

Really looking forward to more from you.  :cool.:

Some of the best BA I've seen in a long time, much kudos!

 

Your standard is super high, so don't think I'm sniping. :smile.: The snow bases need to have some ice to look more realistic, imo. A bit of ice blue/ turquoise ice under the snow would remedy this.

 

Don't forget to add streaks to the side of the tanks; far too many leave this effect off.

 

Really looking forward to more from you.  :cool.:

 

Thanks for the nice words! :)

 

Regarding the bases I think you're right. The bases do have some secret weapon miniatures crushed glass on them, the sparkling effect this creates, however, doesn't show in the pics. I've done some tests with broken up shards and spikes of ice made with a 'clear' crackle medium gel. I say 'clear' because they dried up with a quite opaque yellow tint, so back to the drawing board on that one. 

 

Additionally I think i'll add some streaking to the sides as you rightly point out ;)

 

I've had some questions regarding the way I do my airbrush reds and golds, so rather than being all hush hush about it, I'll spill the beans here!

 

Red:

 

Base: Vallejo model air black matt primer (2-3 light coats: keep them looking matt rather than wet on the surface of your piece).

Red1: Vallejo model air Scarlet Red (2-3 light coats again).

Shade1: Scarlet Red, VMA Burnt Umber, brush full of black 1:1:1

Shade2: Burnt Umber, black 1:1 (only deepest shadows).

 

Highlight1: Vallejo game air Bloody red (this stage is done by spraying the colour from above the minature, creating the effect of an overhead light source).

Highlight2: VGA Bloody red, GW wild rider red 1:1 (done the same as stage 1, but concentrating only on edges/ highest points of the model).

Highlight3: edges are done with a 1:1 mix of wild rider/ army painter skeleton bone. (normal brush)

 

Battle damage is then done by sponging a 1:1 mix of umber/black with a bit of blister foam, after which individual marks are underlined with the same mix used on the edges. As a last step, scorch/smoke/streak marks are done with burnt umber, black 1:2, and bare metal edges are applied with Vallejo Metal medium.

 

Gold:

 

Base: VMA black

Gold1: GW Gehenna's gold, VGA Polished gold, black 1:1:1

Shade1: wash with army painter strong tone, water 1:3

Shade2: Deepest shadows are done with Burnt umber.

Highlight1: light dusting (again angled from the top down, where possible) of Polished gold.

Highlight2: edges are done with Vallejo metal medium.

 

Hope it helps some of you, and stay tuned for more stuff soon!

 

Cheers.

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