Jump to content

Best ways to strip paint from minis


Recommended Posts

I use 91% isopropyl alcohol.

 

However I got a rhino off eBay primed on the sprue, just let it sit for a week in it, after trying simple green for two days... I have a nice blue sanitary rhino....so will have to try something else, they probably used enamel on it

Funny just came looking for this. I use simple green (Canada) and it works but is there a way to accelerate the process? I just got 10 bikers and they are currently swimming, but would like to get this moving faster. :D

 

Also: I left some metal models in simple green for months (maybe even a year) and they seem to have calcified? Anyone know what that is or how to get rid of it?

Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go.

Readily available from computer/electronics shops (I get mine from Maplin)

strips from, metal, plastic, or resin with no ill effects.

Ready to go in about 20 min in some cases, a swift scrub with a toothbrush then wash off with dish soap and water = win cool.png

Just keep away from any ignition sources (Its VERY flamable furious.gif ) and you will need a sealable glass jar to soak any minis in.

enjoy! biggrin.png

Isopropyl alcohol is the way to go.

Readily available from computer/electronics shops (I get mine from Maplin)

strips from, metal, plastic, or resin with no ill effects.

Ready to go in about 20 min in some cases, a swift scrub with a toothbrush then wash off with dish soap and water = win cool.png

Just keep away from any ignition sources (Its VERY flamable furious.gif ) and you will need a sealable glass jar to soak any minis in.

enjoy! biggrin.png

Isopropyl alcohol and an ultrasonic cleaner - IPA is the active ingredient in Dettol.

ATB WW cool.png

Do we think this has replaced Fairy Power Spray as the way to go now since the formula change?

I stick to engine degreaser (specifically Purple Power). Pour some in a container, drop your mini in, let it sit. Haven't tested on resin; metal it loosens everything; plastic it gets everything except spray primer. I've had no issues with it damaging minis. There are a few I've gotten in via eBay, dropped in Purple Power, and pulled them out months later when I realize "didn't I buy some XYZs a while back?"

If your doing it on mass then Dettol accept no substitute!!!

 

Currently cleaning up several decades worth of guard, these are the ones I've already cleaned up:

 

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee214/SW1-SWC/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsj6kjuohx.jpg

 

The last couple of pages in my thread on the guard section of the site has been me working through 100's of metal models an plastic tanks gettin them stripped for the ETL. ;)

Well I finally found some simple green!!!! Went to Wal Mart this morning after going to pick up my new airbrush and found some. They had 4 bottles and I got 3 of them. I dont even have anything to strip yet but with the new airbrush Im sure I will have a few customers pretty soon. I havent used the airbrush yet but I will post an update on my blog thread soon.

Isopropyl alcohol and an ultrasonic cleaner - IPA is the active ingredient in Dettol.

ATB WW cool.png

I would love to get my hands on an ultrasonic cleaner. Those things work great!

Also if you have some creases or fine detail that needs to be cleaned out, try an electric tooth brush. I just tried one out for the first time tonight. It was very nice!

I want to issue a word of warning about isopropyl alcohol.  The stuff is very volatile and flammable! Remember that this is what they use to fuel burners in chemistry labs and some portable stoves.

 

Yes, it works great - and yes I have used it in the past and sometimes still do.  But be sure to keep it away from open flames (I'm sure somewhere there's a genius that smokes while stripping minis) and use in a ventilated area.

Glad to be of service.  Though I will say with Simple Green it's good to rinse well after stripping them.  The product is water soluble and tends to make a lot of suds.  If the metal actually feels rough, lightly sanding the surface with a very fine grit sandpaper or sanding stick could help - but I've never had that problem even with metals left in the dunk for months.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.