ShinyRhino Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 I know several folks here cast their own resin bases. I've begun doing so as well, and poured my first half-dozen or so. They came out quite nicely, but the bottoms are a little convex after the resin sets. It wasn't a huge deal to run them over a sheet of sandpaper and bring them back to flat, but is there a way to make them flat without sanding after the fact? My mold is a single-piece, open-faced setup. I've seen over at HirstArts they recommend placing a sheet of glass or plastic over the back of the mold to squish out any excess resin. That might work, but has anyone actually done that, and if so, what type of glass or plastic did you use? I have a big sheet of clear acrylic left over from another project, but my guess is that the resin will bond to the acrylic. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peredyne Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Spray the acrylic with a release agent before you press it down. That should keep it from bonding. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/#findComment-4018238 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacinda Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Like any viscous liquid, the resin will bead up which you have noticed. I use a wooden popsicle stick like what you use to stir the resin with and squeegee across the top of the mold. Normally I only fill most of the mold and scrap any excess resin into one of the empty forms. This way I don't wind up with more mix than I can pour which is a big waste. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/#findComment-4018253 Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShinyRhino Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Spray the acrylic with a release agent before you press it down. That should keep it from bonding. That makes sense, and rereading the HirstArts page shows they use the stuff as well. Like any viscous liquid, the resin will bead up which you have noticed. I use a wooden popsicle stick like what you use to stir the resin with and squeegee across the top of the mold. Normally I only fill most of the mold and scrap any excess resin into one of the empty forms. This way I don't wind up with more mix than I can pour which is a big waste. I've got a specific cup marked with the exact amount to fill one of my base molds, and I just nest the two cups I use for the resin halves inside to measure. Do you wait for the resin to begin to set before scraping, or do it immediately? I'm currently using up the remainder of a batch of Alumilite resin that only has a 90 second pot life. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/#findComment-4019062 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jacinda Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I do it immediately. When you see the white bloom starting it is too late. You have to work pretty quickly to stir, pour the bases and smooth the tops all within 60 seconds before the resin's temp sparks the curing process. Once it cools you get a slightly concaved surface and a thin film across the top of the mold. This is easily removed with a few quick swipes across a sanding block. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/#findComment-4019141 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Mainly just takes practice with pouring and having a lollipop stick to hand if you've poured too much in. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/306572-casting-flat-bottoms-on-bases/#findComment-4019419 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.