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If you’re talking about the blue, square plastic … bottles? jars? pots? containers then the paint is pretty good, but beware that the container suffers from similar problems as GW’s: the paint will dry out much faster than you’d like. From personal experience I can tell you that you can stir isopropanol into them to thin them back down, though.

 

Also, if you buy them, check the label for instructions on how to open them: don’t try to pry the lid off, but twist it like ascrew cap.

Beginners who'd truly be better off with acrylics until they master the proper techniques

Except that techniques for painting with one don’t really apply to the other. Yes, they’re both paints that you apply with a brush, but due to differences in drying time and the way the paints react to solvents, you can do things with enamels that you can’t with acrylics, and vice-versa.
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Perhaps, but beginners wouldn't know how to do those things.  More accurate to say that some things are done more easily with one or the other - but techniques exist to do those tasks with both.

 

Enamels simply aren't a good choice of paint for beginners.  Learning to properly work with them is far less forgiving.

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Perhaps that means they are more suitable for beginners. You tend to learn more from first doing something the hard way before you get to do it the easy way. Though I wouldn’t say enamels are harder to paint with than acrylics ±— just a bit different. OTOH, you could argue that my perception is coloured by having used enamel paints from age 7 before first coming across acrylics at about twice that age smile.png
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If part of the learning process involves ruining expensive models, then I'd agree.  I have yet to see a beginner produce good results with enamels.  I was 13 when I started painting - that was 35 years ago and enamels were pretty much the choice due to their wide availability.  Fortunately, no evidence of my work remains.

 

When I discovered acrylics years later, my results began to improve significantly.  GW's methods allow an inexperienced painter to produce some good tabletop results, whereas with enamels, shading and highlighting are a more advanced technique.  Drybrushing is not as easy, and while blending might be simpler to do, it's a lot messier and probably not within a new painter's skillset.

 

Your mileage may vary - someone with years of experience painting with enamels may disagree with my assessment,  but if they have all that experience, they're reinforcing my belief that it's a medium best employed by experienced painters.

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If part of the learning process involves ruining expensive models, then I'd agree.

Heh … as if nobody’s ever ruined a model by painting it with acrylics.

 

I have yet to see a beginner produce good results with enamels.

I have yet to see a beginner produce good results, period. Everybody starts off “block-painting” models, and for that it doesn’t matter what paint you use. I maintain that enamels or acrylics doesn’t matter when you’re starting from scratch — it’s not like we’re talking about oil paints here.

 

that was 35 years ago

So about as long as for me, then.

 

Drybrushing is not as easy

With enamels? I beg to differ … I find there’s quite a lot of variation in acrylics when it comes to drybrushing (GW’s drybrush well for example, but some Tamiya colours are just about impossible to drybrush with) while I’ve never seen an enamel paint that gives any trouble at all, especially if you use the old Verlinden method of not stirring the paint but going straight for the pigment.
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@Gurth - Tamiya acrylics are an altogether different beast altogether though. Alcohol based rather than water based like GW/Vallejo etc

 

I'm sure hand brushing is technically feasible with Tamiya acrylics, but it's not something I like to do. I keep them just for airbrushing, and they're my favourite paint range for running through an airbrush

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I like Tamiya for brush-painting, but they have a tendency to get problematic if the jar was first opened a long time ago — paint lifting off if you brush over it again before it’s fully hardened, for example. Drybrushing is really strange because it works well with some colours but not at all with others.
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