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Tips for imp fists paints


Deekthegreat

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Having decided on the fist of dorn as my legion and with 2 boxes of betrayal at calth coming my way i am struggling with how to do a good imp fist scheme yellow seems so damn infuriating to paint can anyone tell me a good way to paint yellow? I was guessing averland sunset and yreil yellow and maybe badmoon yellow. Are those good colors to go with
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Depends on the Type of Yellow. I just 'Wing It' for all of my stuff with a few colors always being around to get a roughly similar scheme the majority of the time.

 

Prime:

  • White or Black, this influences the Brightness of the Final Paintjob a bit.

 

Yellow:

  • Averland Sunset until primer is no longer visible
  • Yriel Yellow or Flash Gits. This also determines how bright your yellow will be.
  • Choice of Seraphim Sepia, Agrax Earthshade or Cassandora Yellow Washes. Sepia gives it a slightly worn look, Agrax makes it look dirty, Cassandora adds more Depth to the yellow (my personal go-to).
  • Clean up with either the Color you used in Step 2 or Brighter.
  • Glaze Lamenters Yellow if you want to boost the saturation of the yellow.
  • I Personally Edge highlight with Dorn Yellow Sometimes. This can be done before or After the Lamenters Yellow.

 

Another Easy-as-all-hell method is:

 

Prime:

  • White

Yellow:

  • Seraphim Sepia or Agrax Earthshade the Details.
  • Cassandora Yellow if you want a more Orange Yellow. Otherwise, Lamenters Yellow Glaze.
  • Lamenters Yellow Glaze until you get to a saturation you're happy with.
  • Depending on if you want to Dirty it up a bit, light/thin all-over wash of Seraphim Sepia.

This method is probably the easiest and is my go-to for batch painting marines...when I prime them white. Though it will take longer since you have to wait for Shades and Glazes to dry.

 

Will Edit this Post late with Pictures of models I've painted in a particular method.

 

Edit: heres a Crappy Phone pic. [Hidden] isn't working for some reason v_v

 

2015 11 03 21.43.51

 
 
Polux was:
  • Prime Black
  • Averland Sunset
  • Flash Gitz
  • Agrax Earthshade
  • Flash Gitz cleanup
  • Very Fine Agrax Earthshade Detailing.

Sigismund:

  • Prime White
  • Averland Sunset
  • Yriel Yellow
  • Cassandora Yellow
  • Dorn Yellow

Plasma Contemptor:

  • Prime Black
  • Averland Sunset
  • Yriel Yellow
  • Seraphim Sepia
  • Flash Gitz
  • Dorn Yellow

Kheres Contemptor:

  • Prime Black
  • Averland
  • Yriel Yellow
  • Heavy Cassandora Yellow
  • Dorn Yellow

Deredeo:

  • Prime Black
  • Averland Sunset
  • Flash Gits
  • Heavy Cassandora Yellow
  • Dorn Yellow.

 

 

White Primer, Averland Sunset, Cassandora Yellow Shade, Yriel Yellow Layer (3x 1:2 Yriel Yellow to water mixture), Flash Gitz Yellow (2x 1:2 Flash Gitx to water mixture), Hexos Palesun Zenithal Dry Brush, Praexeti White High Zenithal Dry Brush (only the very tops of the armor panels as if the light is directly above the model), Lamenters Yellow Wash (2x 1:1:1 Lamenters Yellow, Water, Lahmian Medium).

 

 

Then you sponge weather with storm vermin fur, focusing on the knuckles, knee caps, front of the thighs and calves, the back should have light spattering with heavy spattering directly above the heel where natural human motion kicks up the most dirt. Rune Fang Steel should then be applied sparingly to the places that will most frequently have contact with the other portions of the armor, strike plate edges, knees, elbows, and helmets, these should be washed in a 1:1:1 mixture of Agrax Earthshade and Lamina Medium. Apply transfers using microsol and microset, and use a fine detail brush to chip yellow and white with a fine sponge weathering. Take a stilling brush and flick Blood for the Blood God onto the face of the model most likely hit by splatter from exploding blood rounds sparings. Use Typhus Corrosion around each rivet before picking them out in black or lead belcher, if metallic is used, touch up with Nuln oil at a 1:1 mixture for depth. I also use Corrosion of the lower rim of each mark 3 plate to represent accumulated grime. Black should be simple highlights of 1:1 Abaddon Black to Screaming Skull, and the a 1:2 Black to Skull for a light highlight, blended via a nuln oil wash. The use Runefang Steel to add shipping to the black rims. I prefer Warlock Broze, to Runelord Brass, to 1:1 Runelord Brass/Rundefang Steel for the rivets, washed with a 1:1 Agrax earth shade to blend the layers. 

If you're after ease of painting, I heartily recommend the Yellow Army Painter spray.

 

I use them all for my legions - Green for Sallies, Ultramarine blue for Ultramarines etc. Quick spray of black & the colour = perfectly ready model for extra layers & washes.

If you want to work with yellow, really the only way to do it is with a spray application. Airbrush is strongly preferred over canned yellow. For good results, this is what i do: 

-Prime white
-airbrush Yriel Yellow (3-4 medium layers). (I used to start with a layer of Averland Sunset, but it actually didn't help the process so I stopped). 
-shade the recesses with Scorched Brown (it's called something else now)
-highlight 1 with Flashgitz yellow
-highlight 2 with mix of Flashgitz and white (I made my own mix before GW released a edge-highlight yellow, I think it's called Dorn Yellow or something, best to just go with that. 

Two things to know: 

(1) it really helps to paint the parts individually for good coverage without gunking up the model from certain angles, and then assemble once painted; (2), almost inevitably, a solid coat of yellow will result in some degree of lost detail you will have to make up with your shading. 

If this is too much for you, I would honestly just forgo a "true yellow" approach to your Imperial Fists and use Averland Sunset, shade with a brown or a brown wash, and highlight with Yriel and then Flashgitz. 

Either way, Imperial Fists painters have to have a bit of the geneseed within them and share in their obsession with fastidious detail and discipline, otherwise you'll never finish. 

But that's about the rub of it. 

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