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Resin stripping - what to use?


old git

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Isopropanol has been a godsend for me, this stuff is cheap and AMAZING

 

This is what I use. It strips the fastest without melting resin and takes no scrubbing to remove acrylic paint.

 

The problem is you can't leave it in too long. Like a few minutes or an hour at the most. Soaking it for half a day or longer results in the resin getting a slightly bit softer to the touch (gummy and rubbery surface, but with a solid core), but it hardens up on its own eventually.

Where can I get this elixir from? I'm in UK.

 

Difficult to get in the UK from a regular shop now. You can order via the internet though.

 

High street alternatives - Dettol (which I use) contains IPA, relatively cheap and is available everywhere. Tamiya X-20A Thinners from your local model shop are essentially IPA, but is quite expensive per volume.

 

 

Where can I get this elixir from? I'm in UK.

Difficult to get in the UK from a regular shop now. You can order via the internet though.

 

High street alternatives - Dettol (which I use) contains IPA, relatively cheap and is available everywhere. Tamiya X-20A Thinners from your local model shop are essentially IPA, but is quite expensive per volume.

Tried to purchase from my local chemist and ended up having to answer questions relating to exactly what it was up to.

 

They then had the cheek to refuse to order it in as they'd have to store it in the fume cupboard. Didn't mind the questioning if they were going to order it but then to refuse to was a bit of a joke.

 

You can order it online but it's a flammable liquid so doubt Royal Mail will be happy transporting it if you do get it from online.

 

Currently using dettol. If you can get to a Costco in the uk it's about £12 for 3 or 4 litres.

Having used Dettol myself, I would add a couple of caveats.

 

1) It gives of some chemically fumes, so ventilation is key and try not to breathe too much of it in. Even after you rinse and clean the resin it will still have a chemical odour to it.

2) It doesn't melt the resin, but it will soften it. On larger chunks of armour that's not too bad - but some more spindly weapons and components will go floppy. It's doesn't become rigid again either.

3) When used in large quantities it can be an irritant - so wear gloves.

4) It eats through paint really quickly, but turns it to sludge depending on what you've painted. Put a black undercoat on? You've now got a brownish black sludge to get off the model. Got a few thick coats of paint? You'll need a couple of treatments to get rid of it all.

5) Use a cheap toothbrush to get the paint off the model. Ironically the more expensive the toothbrush the less effective it is, as the cheaper brushes have less bristles and tend not to get clogged as easily.

Re Dettol and sludge. I've normally found you get sludge when you introduce water. After soaking in Dettol I'll scrub with a toothbrush, again with Dettol. Only after that I'll run the model under a tap to wash the Dettol off, and then scrub again with a mild detergent in warm water

 

@Graymane - How much did you pay for IPA at Maplin if you don't mind me asking ? When I've looked on their website it wasn't far off the price of Tamiya thinners.

Yeah ... Dettol plus water is a big no no. You want to have a big tub of it to submerge it in and in usually find a cocktail stick will allow you to give the paint a nudge to mainly slide off the model. The then in a fresh pot of dettol scrub with a brush.

 

I generally have a soaking container pull out with long nose pliers onto a bed of tissue paper and nudge off the bulk of the paint with a cocktail stick and toss back I to a fresh pot. I find scrubbing under the surface of the dettol stops splatter. If you keep the bulk of the paint in the tissue then the soaking pot and scrubbing pot going for quite a while. Once they get mucky you can filter the paint out of the liquid by simply allowing it to settle out and carefully pouring the dettol into a fresh container.

 

If you get any water into either of the pots the paint goes sticky like chewing gum and you better off just chucking the dettol.

 

Once you've given the model it's final scrub I. The dettol I put it into a container with dish soap scrub them a bit and then rinse off with water.

I think i picked up a litre for about £8? Was a while ago.

Worth it though. So far, I have stripped 2 dreadnoughts, 3 techmarines in servoharnesses, about 25 marines and a selection of other bits (sentinel legs, dwarves etc) and i still have only used about half a litre (though most of that is still in jars atm).

The key is jam jars. Sealable glass container big enough for a model or two. Pop em in for 2-24 hours depending on paint (giving 'em a swill every so often helps), toothbrush, swill in ipa, toothbrush...(repeat until all paint gone). Then wash in washing up liquid and warm water. Done. biggrin.png

Even if the liquid looks filthy, it still works. And if you are really picky, you can filter it. msn-wink.gif

*NOTE* Just for pities sake, don't smoke near it or have it near any open flame or an ignition source. I shouldn't have to state this, but i learned long ago not to underestimate the near limitless potential of human stupidity... huh.png

I would do a lot of staring at ingredients label and Googling before I use any nail polish remover. Even "acetone free" or "non-acetone" nail polish removers contain some kind of "acetylene" variant.

 

I used acetone free nail polish remover to remove the paint from the buttons on a G-Shock I was stealthing, and while the resin band was unharmed, the hard plastic light button was noticeably softened.

Isopropanol Is actually easily available online in the uk and posted (which I'm pretty amazed about!) and yes Marlin do it too.

 

Quick question for the users of it though... What would you wash the minis in e.g: plastic tub, glass jar only etc...is there any no no's to what the product could melt? I have a sicaran to do so need a biggish tub!

Isopropyl won't melt most plastics. This is why it's commonly used to wipe down electronics. I use a disposable soup take-out tub to soak things, so you know at least that level of plastic is safe. It CAN soften or damage certain rubbers or soft plastics though. Glass jars, robust rubber containers, and any kind of plastic bucket should be okay. It's a medical and household substance, much safer than acetone, brake cleaner, oven cleaner, floor cleaning detergent, etc, stuff that most of us have lying around and even have heard being used on models.

Another very good Option which I have been using for years is Brake Fluid, any brand will do. Just put your figures in and let them soak for a while. It wont do anything to plastic, but it will start softening up resin after an hour and a half. The paint will come off as a gelatinous sheet, you barely need to use your toothbrush.

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