The Acid Dog Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Howdy, I've currently got another Astra Militarum regiment planned, that being the Harakoni Warhawks. I'm hoping to commission a local guy with serious sculpting skills to sculpt me up some up-armored Cadian legs, but since I'm impatient and he's notoriously difficult to get a hold of and keep a hold of, I sat down today with some GS and went to work. Here's my first foray into the land of sculpting: And here's what I was going for (it's a big picture): I'm going to go back tomorrow with some files and a hobby knife to clean things up and smooth things out, and I may add some straps to the knee pads. While it's curing, though, I figured I'd jump on here and ask for any tips when it comes to sculpting, generally and with GS specifically. Like I said, I've never sculpted before now, so anything you can think of will probably be of help. Thanks in advance! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 For a first try, that's actually pretty damn good. Make sure you're using lubricant for the tools, and I can't recommend good quality clay shapers enough. Btw, if that's all you're wanting done, shoot me a PM and we can probably work something out. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4312479 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother Pheidias Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 That's a great first effort, looks the part, and with practice it'll be even easier and faster. Kudos! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4312527 Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW1 Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 That's a cracking job and with a bit of paint will look the job. Looks like you've got the basics of tool control sorted already. :tu: Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4312961 Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Acid Dog Posted February 20, 2016 Author Share Posted February 20, 2016 Thanks everyone! Kage, can you (or anyone else reading) point me to a good beginner's set of clay shapers? I've heard dental tools/probes are great, too, but has anyone tried them? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313355 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 I'd really suggest just spending the extra money for some good quality ones. When I first got some, I bought a whole set of size 0 Royal Sovereign shapers and really only used the taper point and flat chisel ones. Later, I bought size 2 shapers in the taper point and flat chisel, and that's what I use about 98% of the time when I'm sculpting. In the Austion area, I went to Jerry's Artarama to get mine, so if you have a "real" art supply store in your area, you might see if they carry them and pick up one or two to try. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313372 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teetengee Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 That art is lovely, btw.The gs work looks pretty good too. I can never get solid lines to work out, but you seem to be doing fine. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313480 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Kage, do you recommend the hard or soft shapers? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313483 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 OP, I think you've done really well for a first try. A few pointers I'd make: 1. Use multiple passes. Get a very approximate blob on your first pass and wait 15 minutes or so before handling it too much. After that time it will have adhered better and will be easier to shape without it moving around or coming off on the sculpting tool. Get it close to the finished product (maybe start on those bevels etc but don't worry if there are a few bumps etc - it won't be perfect yet) and then step away and wait a little more (maybe an hour). At this point you can come back and 'smooth' it out - large surfaces can be smoothed out by licking your finger and gently rubbing it over the surface. Smaller areas will be be easier to smooth with a shaper. At this point thing probably won't be perfect but they'll be better. Wait some more if necessary and smooth out those surfaces again. as the putty cures, it gets tougher, so it's easier to shape it without squishing it, and later on you can smooth it out without reshaping it. 2. As Kage said, LUBE. Seriously, Green stuff is hell without it. Do you like tequila shots? my favorite method for GS is to hold the model in my left hand (it's the lemon/lime wedge), the sculpting tool in my right (It's the shot glass). To lube the shaper I just lick the back of my left hand, near the thumb (like you would before sprinkling salt there for your tequila shot) and then wipe my sculpting tool into that wet patch - so that it's damp, but not beading with saliva or anything) often. You've gotta do it often, often often, and that's why I just use spit. It's quick and easy and very effective. I've tried putting water in a dish but it's too time consuming and you end up with too much water on the tool. Don't add salt. Don't try and shoot back your sculpting tool or bite into your miniature. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313506 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Another useful option for big panels is to use brown stuff instead of (or mixed with) green stuff. It's maybe 5x the price but in the quantities you're using that won't be a lot anyway because it will last a long time. It's very similar to green stuff but cures much harder, and it can be sanded. In fact I've found that a 50/50 mix of brown stuff and green stuff is still hard enough to be sanded. Pure green stuff (probably especially when you use a high proportion of yellow like is often recommended) tends to be a bit too 'crumbly' or 'gummy' to effectively sand, IMO. Anyway, if you shell out for that brown kneadite, you'll have another trick up your sleeve: sanding (or even sculpting) the resin after it has fully cured. I find that often I want to do this, so I almost always mix at least a little brown kneadite into my projects. Sanding works especially well for large flat surfaces and areas with fairly sharp bevels - I.e. what you're doing. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313512 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Kage, do you recommend the hard or soft shapers? Firm, definitely. Personally, I use a cooking oil of some kind (whatever's in the kitchen) for my tools, but I've heard of people using vaseline or even talcum powder. I'd suggest trying out different options and see what works best for you. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313546 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teetengee Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 I use petroleum jelly Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313548 Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Acid Dog Posted February 21, 2016 Author Share Posted February 21, 2016 Don't add salt. Don't try and shoot back your sculpting tool or bite into your miniature. Got it. I've been using some small, fine emery boards for filing/sanding. I didn't really shell out for tools; I just used what I already had. The boards, as well as some modeling files, seem to have been working out alright, as long as I'm gentle. Pretty unwieldy considering the size of the stuff I'm working on, though. Are there smaller tools or better ways to sand things this size? I read about the brown stuff - green stuff mix while I was researching sculpting, but I'm just testing the waters to see if my sculpting abilities are worth investing actual money in. As for lube, I'll have to give some of these suggestions a shot. I've just been using water. I submerge the tip of the tool I'm using and then give it a quick dab on a paper towel (both of which I always have around my hobby desk) to get the excess off. It's been working pretty well, and I can feel when the tool is starting to dry out, so I know when to go back for more. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313567 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 just ordered myself a couple more shapers. in the end i had to go for a more generic brand becayse royal sovereign ones were really expensive to ship from the UK to NZ. And I'm not sure if these ones are #2... it just said 'small' on the site, hah. But went with Kage's advice and ordered flat chisel and round (I'm hoping this means taper, because taper wasn't listed on the site either). Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313568 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Yeah, the round one I'm sure is the same thing. To help get a smooth surface after the GS cures, I'll use a very sharp hobby knife and lightly scrape it, holding the blade at about a 45 degree angle the surface. I also used high grit wet-dry sandpaper that I can buy single sheets of from a local auto body repair shop; it's a mom-and-pop type place and not some corporate chain. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313629 Share on other sites More sharing options...
skeletoro Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Yeah, I've started to use a knife a lot for sculpting - for instance with wolf pelts/fur, i'll come back and redefine the fur with a sharp hobby knife after it has fully cured. It helps a lot with 3d shapes, for example getting that 'spiky' look with fur. When shaping putty it can be hard to achieve. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313681 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 I have to break out a metal sculpting tool the few times I've done fur, and I frequently use the blade edge of an X-Acto when I need to make really thin lines, most notably on the hair for Sister Sneers. http://i.imgur.com/w8UU6Ni.png Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313821 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teetengee Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 When during the curing process did you do that for sister sneer? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4313975 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 It was very close to the end of the working life, actually. It took me a lot longer than I expected to get the hair shape where I wanted and by the time I started using the blade to define the hair, I could feel it starting to head toward the rubbery phase where it stops taking impressions from tools. I barely finished it in time. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4314236 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevak Dal Posted March 5, 2016 Share Posted March 5, 2016 Gonna sound weird, but I have found KY jelly is more useful and easier to clean than Vaseline. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4327286 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshal Rohr Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Gonna sound weird, but I have found KY jelly is more useful and easier to clean than Vaseline. That is either going to be a hilarious or creepy story. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/319477-tips-for-sculpting-gs/#findComment-4327540 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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