Priming- Airbrush vs Rattle can

[Bloody Legionnaire]

So finally got in the box of Vallejo paints I ordered. I'm satisfied with the primer, really. I had some spray on to my finger nail and it was pretty tough to scratch off. However on of the marine itself it scratched off pretty easily. It was the area where you attach the backpack to and I really didn't spray it too thickly there, that could be why. I've already painted over the primer and it seems to be pretty tough, I'm not going to try scratching it off, but it is a nice finished product.

I believe there is some confusion on the purpose of primer. Primer is used to help the paint stick to the surface. Some modelers like to use a primer to see imperfections that can be sanded out however those primers are enamel based which is a much tougher and less brittle paint than acrylic is. If using enamel or spray can paints they are of course going to be harder to scratch off. I don't think anyone should be intimidated by using acrylics though... or Vallejo Surface primer for that matter. After my testing I think I'll be using both spray cans and airbrush primer depending on the project. Thanks for the help all! I'll see if I can post some pics when I get home from work.

[Dantay VI]

I washed my resin models in soapy water, rinsed them down, let them dry a few days in a warm room (utility room where the boiler etc is).

 

I th n primed the models with the spray can, but it kept beading on the surface of the model, so I wiped off what I could before it pooled and left ring marks everywhere.

 

I then sprayed with a matte varnish and used the Vallejo black primer through the airbrush and it went on an absolute dream. I have to admit not knowing about the curing time, but as the models have been sitting for 3 weeks, it will not be an issue.

 

I have some left over resin bits, so I will varnish those and try the spray can, to see if it gives similar results to the airbrush plus Vallejo. If it does then all is good and the spray can will be used for big things, such as the Caestus, Glaive & Typhon. I will definitely stick with the airbrush for smaller models though

[Bloody Legionnaire]

Just a quick update for anyone curious about Vallejo surface primer. My models have had the SP on them for over a week and it's definitely more hardened and durable than it was after the first day or so. A couple of days after spraying it on the Primer would scratch off fairly easily with a rough scratch of a finger nail. About a week later my nail hardly does anything to the primer and I'd really have to dig and scratch a few times to remove a little bit of the primer.

My conclusion... Vallejo SP is pretty great stuff. It can be shot straight from the bottle with no thinning, although it didn't take long for tip dry to form and spatter to ensue, however the excellent leveling ability of the primer did not show any spatter or spots. I think it may be a little strong if you were to do two coats but I can't confirm this. I'll have to test. Generally for just painting models I recommend this for any plastic kits (have not tried it on resin kits yet).

If you are a model hobbyist and not just a gamer and are looking for a primer that you can sand imperfections out of you probably want to steer clear from this stuff. It's goal is not producing a super durable surface coat. Surface primer is meant to provide surface for paint to adhered to. If you're looking for durability for the undercoat go with spray paint or an enamel. However... Once the model is varnished with a clear coat and then a flat coat it is going to be protected no matter which primer you used.

 

Thanks for the help everyone who participated!

[Evil Eye]

I don't have a good airbrushing setup at the moment (I have to do all my spraying outdoors and pray that the weather doesn't :cuss: up the primer) so I really have no choice but to prime my minis with spraycans. That said I mostly use either black or white undercoats for my models, and I've always found GW's rattle cans to be superb, if expensive.

 

I do want to try airbrushing more, but A: I need a decent airbrush (my current airbrush is an ancient jar-feed) and B: I need a proper airbrushing setup...I just hope when we move house that we have a little surplus utility room or a garage or something.

[winterdyne]

You *can* (I emphasise as it's not really ideal for the job) sand the PU primer, but it takes some practice and a gentle hand - you need to put it on very thin - literally just a spritz then dry it (hairdryer works) and leave it for an hour or so before very gentle buffing with a fine emery paper (800 - 1200 grit), wet. Dry that, spritz again. Repeat.

 

For filling surface imperfections, I'd still suggest a dedicated surface filler of some sort (milliput mush / liquid putty / fine polyfilla).

[ronin_cse]

I have been stripping a few models as I try out different color schemes and I must say the difference between a PU primer and a rattle can one is immense. The paint on the PU models basically comes off under the faucet and then requires a light scrubbing with a tooth brush to remove the primer. The rattle can primed models however require a heavy scrubbing with the tooth brush to get the paint off and the primer itself only comes off when using something at least as hard as a fingernail.

 

I'll still continue using the airbrush primer though, just even more obvious that it requires a varnish.

[Dantay VI]

The PU primer requires 2 days to properly cure, which I think spray cans do not need.

 

I still prefer the PU primer because of the control the airbrush gives me

[ronin_cse]

The PU primer requires 2 days to properly cure, which I think spray cans do not need.

 

I still prefer the PU primer because of the control the airbrush gives me

 

These were models that have been sitting for a few weeks so definitely enough time to fully cure ;)

[Dantay VI]

Ah okay, fair enough

[Bloody Legionnaire]

I have been stripping a few models as I try out different color schemes and I must say the difference between a PU primer and a rattle can one is immense. The paint on the PU models basically comes off under the faucet and then requires a light scrubbing with a tooth brush to remove the primer. The rattle can primed models however require a heavy scrubbing with the tooth brush to get the paint off and the primer itself only comes off when using something at least as hard as a fingernail.

 

I'll still continue using the airbrush primer though, just even more obvious that it requires a varnish.

 

Rattle can spray paints are normally enamel type paints... oil based. Which is chemically quite different and isn't going to be as brittle. I'll test when I get home but I am highly doubtful that water and a toothbrush would be enough to strip the Surface primer off of my models.

[ronin_cse]

 

I have been stripping a few models as I try out different color schemes and I must say the difference between a PU primer and a rattle can one is immense. The paint on the PU models basically comes off under the faucet and then requires a light scrubbing with a tooth brush to remove the primer. The rattle can primed models however require a heavy scrubbing with the tooth brush to get the paint off and the primer itself only comes off when using something at least as hard as a fingernail.

 

I'll still continue using the airbrush primer though, just even more obvious that it requires a varnish.

 

Rattle can spray paints are normally enamel type paints... oil based. Which is chemically quite different and isn't going to be as brittle. I'll test when I get home but I am highly doubtful that water and a toothbrush would be enough to strip the Surface primer off of my models.

 

 

I guess what I was more surprised at was how much better the paint stuck to the spray can primer than the airbrush stuff, however as you say it is probably due to it not reacting to the solvent in the same way.

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

It's because actual primers in spray form have tooth, while Vallejo surface primer is fairly smooth for whatever reason. Most likely because of the smoother polyurethane resin shell which is the reason for its long cure time and extreme protection once cured.