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Rhino MK II Armoured Recovery Vehicle


tombear01

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I've been working on a ARV for Jnrs marines armoured column. So far I've opened up the rear compartment, mocked up a winch at the back, fitted a bulldozer blade / earth anchor at the back, a concrete counterweight on the front, a large A frame on the front mudguards, a folding crane on the top right of the hull, a locker where the left side door was and a spare bobbin of cable where the right one is.

 

I'm leaving it for a few days to let the liquid weld glue dry then it's drilling out for the rivets and opening up the vents on the exhaust etc, there's plenty of details and fine sanding to do after the things glued together.

 

There's photos in my gallery but I seam to have lost the ability to put them up in a thread, D'oh!

 

ATB

 

Tom

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Cheers folks! I'll get on with it at the weekend and hopefully be able to post some pictures directly into the thread. I used to be able to!

 

The spares box is letting me down as I need more small Imperial Eagles to fit to the altered or scratch bit parts. I've tried slicing them from bolters but they are too thin and I've already robbed them from all the bigger stuff for other conversions. Also I'm looking for a single hand laz cutter if anyone has a spare.

 

Basically I'm ripping off various real world ARVs and trying to give it a 40k twist. I'm doing it more on a whim than anything else,

 

On the front I've closed up the right hand vision port and cut down the armoured visor so it just covers the left port and was in two minds to put a dreadnought sacophagous cover on the right but in the end we decided that a powerful machine spirit resides in the vehicle.

 

The articulated crane arm ( will add plenty of guitar string cabling when it's ready ) has a venerable dreadnought fist on the end rather than a hook etc and I was toying with converting a heavy weapon into a giant pistol and having it holstered where the arm could reach it...

 

I think it needs some more sensors on the front and one fitted like a CTV camera on the top of the A frame. Rather than a hook dangling from the A frame I'm thinking of a dreadnought close combat fist, something bulky enough to use as a wrecking ball. Perhaps a small secondary winch on the front hull so it can be brought back to be swung....

 

ATB

 

Tom

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All those tanks look amazing, I think my favourite is the medic Rhino. :tu:

 

Any chance you could drop by my thread and give some tips on rescuing RT tanks? It can be found here ...

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/320716-help-fixing-up-old-rt-rhino-kits/

 

What thickness plasticard do you work with when scratch building bits? Any tips on keeping cuts square? There's some interesting looking bits added to detail the conversions, which kits do you find best for plundering panels from? Sorry for the bombardment of questions. Just got the hobby fires stoked seeing what you've managed to do.

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Hi SW1

That's a hell of a project rebuilding that lot! Isopropyl Alchahol is your friend for paint striping, eBay will get you 5 litres for 13 quid with free postage and a trip to a charity shop with get you a big spring lid jar for a under £2, if you can't find one at home. If you must do vast amounts at a time proper old school sweet shops with give you a big plastic jar for nowt ( well the two here do ) . Overnight in that should sort any paint and weaken some glues, beware fumes, fire etc etc..

 

Filler, Squadron Green putty every time unless you are sculpting then Miliput. Glue, Plastic Weld unless you can get Ambroid Pro Weld. The latter comes in a excellent bottle with a brush attached to the lid, I've been filling a Pro Weld Bottle with Plastic Weld for the last five years!

 

Plasticard, that really depends on what it's being used for, since it's a wargames piece rather than a model that will hardly be handled again I tend to go thicker than is " realistic ". Pre cut plastic strip is a great time saver, stupidly expensive for what it is but worth it. A good steel ruler with sharp corners is all I use for small right angles, for larger pieces I use the lines on a cutting board. To replace moulded grills cut them out and apply metal mesh to the back, either automotive filler reinforcing stuff or pound shop frying pan splash cover.

 

For sanding I use my beloved Permagrits for roughing out but for most I get some cheap hard balsa sheet, at least 5mm thick and glue various grades of wet and dry to it with a decent impact adhesive. Then I cut various thicknesses of strip, square and taper ( keeping the grades in separate containers. Make lots as you will get through them, with the correct pressure you can bend them without snapping to get into awkward places.

 

One of my favourite sources of bits is the parts you don't use from the MK II Rhino, mainly the interior bulkhead ( just cut out the gun and computer bit, unless you are going to have the ramp open no one sees them ) and the predator/razorback/whirlwind top deck, that will provide a useful grill on one side or a STC pair of doors. Anything that won't be seen on a kit I tend to cut off and throw in the spares box like the interior doors , I do resort to Blitz and Kits on occasion and have always had excellent service. A while back I bought someone's spares box on a carboot and that really helped,

 

ATB

 

Tom

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Bearing in mind that the forum software has been upgraded since 2011, I am not surprised that the functions may be unfamiliar. If you're still in need of a hand, PM me and I'll attempt a step-by-step process. :)

Now then, is this what you're looking for?

gallery_62992_6399_39302.jpg

gallery_62992_6399_168934.jpg

gallery_62992_6399_136107.jpg

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Thanks for the information you've just jumped my project forward by a few weeks. Just getting my bearings with supplies and then jumping right in.

 

:tu:

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