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+++Knightfall 2016+++


Firepower

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I, Marshal Roujakis of the Vengeance Crusade, in the name of noble Dorn and honored Sigismund, hereby vow myself to the completion of an unnamed Razorback, by the end of May 31.  Upon completion, I will be accept the banner of triumph.  Should I fail, I will wear the mark of shame until July 1, that all may know my debt of honor to the Eternal Crusade.

 

in addition, I will need to Vow this Razorback into ETL V, so a delay might be expected before i start painting... but WIPs will be edited here in later

 

 

 

I started well, though I'm already feeling the drag of drop-pods... I just can't make white look good, and lack the patience to overcome it. I'm starting to think that my dread-pods may just get some hazard stripes instead (or maybe red). Not sure where to go with weathering either - I haven't really done any on my tanks or infantry, but I don't think it would seem out of place even if it was just on my pods. Would have to be very quick and easy, but if anyone has some tips...?

I started well, though I'm already feeling the drag of drop-pods... I just can't make white look good, and lack the patience to overcome it. I'm starting to think that my dread-pods may just get some hazard stripes instead (or maybe red). Not sure where to go with weathering either - I haven't really done any on my tanks or infantry, but I don't think it would seem out of place even if it was just on my pods. Would have to be very quick and easy, but if anyone has some tips...?

 

Go with red instead of white!

 

Also the old kitchen sponge weathering trick is always good for quick work. Just about any will do, cut off a couple of 1" squares, start with patches of dark brown, then a layer of light brown, then dry brush with anything silver like Leadbelcher. Just be sure to keep the paint light as it's really easy to over apply with a sponge, be sure to dab it a few times on a paper towel or spare scrap plasticard.

Maybe I'll try that - it sounds easy enough ;)

 

But yeah, I might still mix up the colours. While the matching set of pods might look neat and consistent...

 

CODEX BE DAMNED! WE DO THINGS HOWEVER WE DARN WELL FEEL LIKE DOING THEM!

Ironclad Dread pods get hazard stripes because they are sure as hell hazardous!

Sword brethren can have red because why not? If it looks good over the shoulder in a luxurious 100% cashmere, it will look good on a drop pod screaming towards the surface fast enough to melt your face off ;)

Yeah, don't remember how the idea came to me, but it's saved me oodles of heartache and fury, even though white is way easier now than it was way back when.  Not long after I stumbled across Titan's army and kicked myself for not going with dark brown rather than black on the creme surfaces.  Oh well. :)

Those are some awesome weathering effects, JAG! Mind sharing your process? Also, my initial post was my pods built (2 primed), so does that count as a WIP? Or do I need to post a separate one? Almost done with my first one...

Thanks smile.png

The process is fairly simple. I sponge on a 1:1 mix of GW Leadbelcher and Vallejo Extra Opaque Heavy Charcoal. I use the dark grey foam stuff that sometimes comes in blister packs with non-GW resin bases/weapons etc. instead of a kitchen sponge as the 'bubbles' are smaller. Invariably, those third-party resin bits providers always seem to be based in Eastern Europe - normally Poland.

After that I used AK Interactive track wash to cover some but not all of the sponged on damage. Done!

If you haven't used their weathering products before they are amazing. They make hyper-realistic weathering products for WW2/ military modelling, and cover a wide range of environmental and man-made effects. I love that they have a different product for freshly leaked oil/ hydraulic fluid, encrusted oil that has burnt onto engines/ exhausts, and fuel streaks from careless refueling. A Death Korps or Ork army using these products would look very good!

One thing to note is that the washes are enamel based so in my part of the world (high temperatures, high humidity in summer) it takes about 3 days to set properly. I haven't experienced any adverse interactions with GW or Vallejo acrylic paints.

I'm very interested in the white conversation as well. Have not yet found a reliable way to air brush large areas of white. Surprisingly, the White Scars forum doesn't really cover it. I guess they are so used to dealing with white they don't even perceive it as a problem.

Updated the list in the OP. If I missed something, point it out to me and I'll fix it.

As for me, the struggle continues:

gallery_38474_6916_113670.jpg

gallery_38474_6916_54808.jpg

Magnetized the doors and deathwinds, rose victorious over the mold line armada, got some priming done. Once I deal with those damnable harnesses, it's on to the airbrush! :)

Updated the list in the OP. If I missed something, point it out to me and I'll fix it...

 

...Magnetised the doors and deathwinds

I completed my vow on the 14th, previous page.

 

Also, any chance of a nosey look at your magnetising? My two were picked up already constructed, but I have more to put together eventually ;)

Updated the list in the OP. If I missed something, point it out to me and I'll fix it...

...Magnetised the doors and deathwinds

I completed my vow on the 14th, previous page.

Also, any chance of a nosey look at your magnetising? My two were picked up already constructed, but I have more to put together eventually msn-wink.gif

I spent a good time looking through the previous page for a post that's on this page tongue.png

For Deathwind/Storm Bolters, I cut off the pegs of the mount, drill a hole through where they were, and insert a 3x1mm magnet. The same magnet fits perfectly into the corresponding hole of the weapon's interior. You won't get a smooth fit right off though, so I gradually shaved the ring on the opposite half of the weapon until it clicked smoothly in and out of place.

I use this guy's method for magnetizing doors. One thing to be aware of: to get deep enough into the door for a magnet to fit, you will be drilling all the way through the interior half. Sometimes, a drill will sort of 'stick' when it goes through, and you can easily break the glue or twist up the plastic if you just force it. The best way to get it free is to slowly continue spinning, but gently pull backwards as you do.

https://youtu.be/ivzGCUGrsAw?t=51

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