How to understand panting?

[Teetengee]

Does anyone have something simple you can get at most regular stores that I can use to hold but not obscure parts of the model while I prime with the can? I love those clamps from above, just don't know where I'd get something ( funny there is a ACE right next door not open yet) I would want something that holds it but doesn't leave indentations on the model.

 

I was thinking of a bent paper clip into a piece that won't show

 

Or some clips the wooden ones or plastic can't think of their name for some reason.

I just shake a spray box with the bits while I spray them for full coverage, then you could shake a bit more until it is dry enough to place somewhere the paint won't stick too much to

 

but I think paper clips would work too

[Major_Gilbear]

Ultimately, you need to

Speaking of which, I dont suppose you've ever posted a tutorial for your plasma weapons shown above? They are delicious.

Thank you.

I don't have a tutorial, but as it's a Dark Angels army I am working on, it's only a matter of time before I paint more!

In the meantime, I can explain it pretty quickly:

- Start with a solid white

- Add a hint of turquoise to the white, and highlight some of the plasma coils.

- Keep adding more turquoise and applying successively smaller highlights in this way.

- Finally, add a little blue paint/ink to the turquoise, and do some final highlights.

- You can finish the look by making a glaze of turquoise paint (or ink) and applying it carefully to the darker areas; doing this helps the white around the perimeter stand out more by enhancing the contrast between it and the blues.

And that's it - you are just "highlighting" with progressively darker colours instead of progressively lighter ones like you normally would.

The effect is a bit lost on these particular weapons as the coils and the gaps between them are fairly even, thus lessening the final result a bit (i.e., it's hard to tell if I've shaded the recesses, or highlighted the coils, or what). It does work well in general though, and should look better on something like Volkite weapons for example.

Have you kept the brighter colours on the inside of the coils? I do find that looks better but takes some practice. There's loads of Skitarii and Cult Mechanical models begging to be painted using that method.

Yes, the recesses parts are white/light, and the raised areas are coloured/dark. As I said though, where the detail is a bit bigger, the effect is more pronounced. some Object Source Lighting ("OSL") helps to sell the effect better, but I don't normally bother with SOL, weathering, etc., - I'd never get anything finished if I did!

Does anyone have something simple you can get at most regular stores that I can use to hold but not obscure parts of the model while I prime with the can? I love those clamps from above, just don't know where I'd get something ( funny there is a ACE right next door not open yet) I would want something that holds it but doesn't leave indentations on the model.

I was thinking of a bent paper clip into a piece that won't show

Or some clips the wooden ones or plastic can't think of their name for some reason.

There *used* to be a tool made by Micromark called "Gripster" which can be useful for handling very small parts that are otherwise hard to hold. Basically it looked like a clicky ballpoint pen, and when you "clicked" and held the button down at the rear end, it pushed forward four little hooked prongs at the front end; releasing the button drew the prongs back in, securing the object in their grip. Anyway, that's all a bit sold-school, and I don't know if they even still make the tool - might be worth a look though, as perhaps some places may have them in stock?

Beyond that, you will need an area to hold the models that won't get damaged. As I pin the joints, I simply leave the pins long and use those; when it comes to assembly, I trim shorter as required and glue them in.

There are lots of other alternatives though.

Some people glue spare lengths of sprue to areas that will be hidden when the model is built - this helps them hold the parts securely, and then they can be trimmed/broken off afterwards.

Others stick the parts to some spare bases, and then either use blu-tak to stick the base to an empty paint pot/wine cork/etc. Micromark also make a universal clamp that works extremely well, although you can also make your own version cheaply enough if you like.

I know lots of people never bother with model prep, but I find it does make getting a nice finish easier - not only removing mould lines and pinning parts, but also filling gaps with epoxy putty, washing the models before priming, applying a good smooth primer coat, and then trying as much as possible to avoid touching the model until the paint job is finished and the work is protected by varnish/sealer. As well as the prep improving the finish, I also have an easier time when I come to paint (which makes it worthwhile to me). It's up to each person to determine what works for them though, and how long they want to spend on it. <shrug>

[Lemainus]

  I've found that if you befriend the best painter at your local hobby group, and ask him to explain his methods to you, it helps tremendously in processing all the powers you receive after ritually sacrificing him and eating his heart to gain his strength. 

 

  Or. 

 

  Wait. What?

[Darkn3ssF4lls]

Haha nice