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It's hard to tell from the pic, but if you apply it thinly with damp brush (not over-working the paint either), that looks like it should be okay.

 

Just to note that you don't lose too much (other than time) if you slightly go too thin - it simply takes an extra coat or two to get a nice coverage. If you go too thick though, you can't go back and fix it.

 

ok i tried to make it a little thiner but when i put it on there it was definitely playing water gams [cohesion etc] so i'm pretty sure that means

thats to thin. So i'll try again to that one indicated maybe pull a little off on the towel and see what i get done here.

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls

Just a tip:  I learned a lot about how to paint minis from Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic videos on you tube.  If you watch his earlier videos he does a fairly good job explaining things like layering and how to thin your paints and basing your minis etc.  You might give his videos a view.  :smile.:

Just a tip:  I learned a lot about how to paint minis from Dr. Faust's Painting Clinic videos on you tube.  If you watch his earlier videos he does a fairly good job explaining things like layering and how to thin your paints and basing your minis etc.  You might give his videos a view.  :)

Thanks I think that's a great idea, I'm almost done with version 2.0 of tweedle de so I'll post that up then watch some more tutorials.

So think i did a little bit better this time, definitely going to need to paint things their proper color that i hit with the gray. Does it still look like it was too think?

 

http://i.imgur.com/CJBdNDim.jpg http://i.imgur.com/y3UlpVXm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/tU6dg1om.jpg

That looks good - well done on getting the paint consistency right, as I know it's tricky for a lot of people! :)

Thanks, I think it was the many thin coats and just putting them on where I missed first time helped.

 

So i assume washes are after all the base coats?

it is suggested indeed,

you do not want to wash a part and then accidentally paint over it with another base color!

 

 

whew ok, just making sure i'm not crazy!

Is there any significant of a weapons color? Like black vs gray vs red? Is it model or just ascetics?

 

In the Latest codex, they are depicted with black bolter.

But is you want to add a little color to your army, you can try red or dark green.

You dont see it often, but bronze can look good too, like in my recent wip post ;)

 

Is there any significant of a weapons color? Like black vs gray vs red? Is it model or just ascetics?

 

 

In the Latest codex, they are depicted with black bolter.

But is you want to add a little color to your army, you can try red or dark green.

You dont see it often, but bronze can look good too, like in my recent wip post ;)

Was thinking red with a goldish muzzle, but I am not sure if the red would look weird next to the eventual sergeant in robes.

Day 3:

 

So the struggle with the lines is real, I think tomorrow i'll get out the fine line brush to do better but i imagine i should be better with this basecoat brush. 

 

- So what does everyone think now?

- Does it look like i'm on track?

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors? 

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored]

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one?

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray?

 

 

http://i.imgur.com/7CJt4Iem.jpg http://i.imgur.com/RCZyFWcm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SmaU8gwm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/PDtGnJSm.jpg

- So what does everyone think now? - nice beginning :smile.:

 

- Does it look like i'm on track? - Yes on the right track

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors?  - Practice, there is a lot of advice that I could give you, but it will never beat practice. that and video can teach a lot.

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored] - either paint the whole foot black, or leave everything grey is what i would do.

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one? - Yes, I think so. though the conversion should have been done in the beginning. also, nobody will scold you is your DV set marine keep the parent chapter symbol.

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray? - personnally I keep it the same color as the backpack. This spot does not need artificial shadowing.

 

the paint seems smooth, which is the focus of all beginner. he is ready for step 2, I think. 

Edited by BlackTriton

Day 3:

 

So the struggle with the lines is real, I think tomorrow i'll get out the fine line brush to do better but i imagine i should be better with this basecoat brush.

 

I posted some thoughts in this thread about painting delicate / freehand / small details.

 

With respect to the sort of brush to use:

 

Use a sharp Kolinsky sable brush, ideally a big brush. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but the crucial bits for drawing thin lines are the sharpness of the point of the brush and the smoothness of the paint. If you use a 10/0 brush or a toothpick, or such, the paint is in such tiny quantities that it dries on the tool you're using and you get nowhere. A bug brush (size 1 or 2) keeps the paint we as you paint it on, so you get smoother thinner brush strokes.

 

Also, painting moulded icons is usually easier than painting freehand symbols (unless the symbols are very simple, and the ones for the GoC thankfully are). It's part  of the reason the starter set Marines have them moulded on!

 

 

- So what does everyone think now?

- Does it look like i'm on track?

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors? 

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored]

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one?

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray?

 

- So what does everyone think now?

Looks good, although I think you should scrape off/clean up the mouldines better next time.

Snap fit models have three parts (and so three mouldlines to remove), but the full-kit version have a minimum of ten components (so over three times the number of mouldlines!). Getting rid of these neatly really helps the model fit together properly and improves the finish of the paintjobs.

 

- Does it look like i'm on track?

On track for...?

 

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors? 

Which areas concern you specifically? If you add too many colours, it's hard to balance them all; if you don't add enough, it's hard to distinguish between the different areas. You should be fine if you are following the official scheme?

 

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored]

I do the soles in a darker version of the main armour colour.

 

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one?

It will be impossible. Much better to scrape the moulded icon down and file the area smooth first (do this during the prep stage). Alternatively, just scrape off the wings and leave the sword part of the icon (or even paint out the wings in background colour and pick our the sword in white).

 

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray?

I paint the nozzles and inside in a dark silver/black. The main housing for the nozzles (i.e.., the main rounded bulb part) I usually do in the main armour colour.

I will probably get thrown tomatoes for saying this, but the grey armor and the combination of red and black in the shoulder pads makes them too close to Space Wolves Grey Hunters.

GoC armour is metallic grey and the light grey doesn't mimic that well enough, IMHO. Perhaps with a red robe, they will look more like GoC but not everyone will have red robes.

Anyway it's your army, so if you are pleased with it.. go for it!

- So what does everyone think now? - nice beginning :smile.:

 

- Does it look like i'm on track? - Yes on the right track

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors?  - Practice, there is a lot of advice that I could give you, but it will never beat practice. that and video can teach a lot.

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored] - either paint the whole foot black, or leave everything grey is what i would do.

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one? - Yes, I think so. though the conversion should have been done in the beginning. also, nobody will scold you is your DV set marine keep the parent chapter symbol.

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray? - personnally I keep it the same color as the backpack. This spot does not need artificial shadowing.

 

the paint seems smooth, which is the focus of all beginner. he is ready for step 2, I think. 

 

thanks

 

 

Day 3:

 

So the struggle with the lines is real, I think tomorrow i'll get out the fine line brush to do better but i imagine i should be better with this basecoat brush.

 

I posted some thoughts in this thread about painting delicate / freehand / small details.

 

With respect to the sort of brush to use:

 

Use a sharp Kolinsky sable brush, ideally a big brush. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but the crucial bits for drawing thin lines are the sharpness of the point of the brush and the smoothness of the paint. If you use a 10/0 brush or a toothpick, or such, the paint is in such tiny quantities that it dries on the tool you're using and you get nowhere. A bug brush (size 1 or 2) keeps the paint we as you paint it on, so you get smoother thinner brush strokes.

 

Also, painting moulded icons is usually easier than painting freehand symbols (unless the symbols are very simple, and the ones for the GoC thankfully are). It's part  of the reason the starter set Marines have them moulded on!

ok, thanks 

 

- So what does everyone think now?

- Does it look like i'm on track?

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors? 

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored]

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one?

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray?

 

- So what does everyone think now?

Looks good, although I think you should scrape off/clean up the mouldines better next time.

Snap fit models have three parts (and so three mouldlines to remove), but the full-kit version have a minimum of ten components (so over three times the number of mouldlines!). Getting rid of these neatly really helps the model fit together properly and improves the finish of the paintjobs.

 

yea they were tricky this may have been one after i took a chunk out of the guy trying to get mold lines off. I was doing this for about 5 hours and in general i couldn't find the happy medium. 

 

- Does it look like i'm on track?

On track for...?

 

normal ?

 

- Any suggestions for the battle between colors? 

Which areas concern you specifically? If you add too many colours, it's hard to balance them all; if you don't add enough, it's hard to distinguish between the different areas. You should be fine if you are following the official scheme?

 

its not a color that concerns me its the gray will seep over into the red then i have to go back and do the black which goes into the gray etc. You posted up the brush but that seems to be lack of coverage?

 

- what do you think about the boot line? [ps guess you can't see it i made the sole of it black, think it will pop out once the base is colored]

I do the soles in a darker version of the main armour colour.

 

ok, will do this from now on 

 

- Would it be weird to just paint the GoC symbol over the DA one?

It will be impossible. Much better to scrape the moulded icon down and file the area smooth first (do this during the prep stage). Alternatively, just scrape off the wings and leave the sword part of the icon (or even paint out the wings in background colour and pick our the sword in white).

 

ok

 

- Should I paint the inside of the backpack bulbs [the bulb [THIS SPOT] backpack] black or dark gray?

I paint the nozzles and inside in a dark silver/black. The main housing for the nozzles (i.e.., the main rounded bulb part) I usually do in the main armour colour.

ok

 

 

I will probably get thrown tomatoes for saying this, but the grey armor and the combination of red and black in the shoulder pads makes them too close to Space Wolves Grey Hunters.

GoC armour is metallic grey and the light grey doesn't mimic that well enough, IMHO. Perhaps with a red robe, they will look more like GoC but not everyone will have red robes.

Anyway it's your army, so if you are pleased with it.. go for it!

 

so i guess i'll be doing the inverse of highlighting then, i'll have to figure out what quantities of black to add to the gray. 

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls

So I was looking up the Masters, they all seem to be resin or in the case of Azrael he's fine cast. Is this normal or is it because they haven't sold as well?

 

Secondly so I know each successor is linked to Azrael it's own chapter. Would it be worth creating your own chapter master out of bits ? I invision myself using the DA masters as is and eventually having non successor units just to play around with the fluffy bit. I'm assuming with that in mind the successor would normally just be a company master equivalent if one of the big five were there as the Force Commander.

Day 4:

 

Got the wash done, started on the eyes and the seals a little bit before dinner

 

Which shows him better to you all?

A:

http://i.imgur.com/IBpzqWVm.jpg

 

B:

http://i.imgur.com/JlwT9X9m.jpg

 

PS: I'm guessing neither because i'm the best at camera angles :smile.:

Still not happy with it but as you all say, in order to get better it takes practice

In order to get better it takes practice, to practice i need take my time lol

In order to take my time I need to not feel rushed by not being able to play

In order to not be rushed I should try and get one of these models done a week at minimum so i can play by Christmas :P

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls

So I was looking up the Masters, they all seem to be resin or in the case of Azrael he's fine cast. Is this normal or is it because they haven't sold as well?

 

Secondly so I know each successor is linked to Azrael it's own chapter. Would it be worth creating your own chapter master out of bits ? I invision myself using the DA masters as is and eventually having non successor units just to play around with the fluffy bit. I'm assuming with that in mind the successor would normally just be a company master equivalent if one of the big five were there as the Force Commander.

 

Games Workshop used to make nearly all their models in metal. Over time, they made new models in plastic. Some models that they haven't re-made in plastic yet are now cast in a soft bendy resin instead of metal.

 

I recommend that you avoid this resin at all costs if you can, and maybe look to get the old models in metal off ebay if you want them. (NB: some models like Belial or the new version of Asmodai are only available in the resin as they didn't have sculpts back when GW made metal models).

 

Even better IMO is if you make your own versions from plastic parts (especially if you are a successor). Handily, the plastic characters you get in the DV box are great matches for Azrael and Ezekiel, and the Terminator Captain in the Start Collecting Space Marines box (now available on his own as "Deathwatch Terminator Captain") is a good match for Belial. Most of the DA kits have lots of parts for kitbashing your own though.

 

Day 4:

 

Got the wash done, started on the eyes and the seals a little bit before dinner

 

Which shows him better to you all?

 

Photo B.

 

Also consider batch-painting five models at a time or so. By batch-painting, I mean you get the same colour/area done on all the models at the same time before moving onto the next colour/area on every model. This helps get through them more efficiently. ;)

 

Would it be weird to make the next guy darker ?

 

No; and you can always go back to the first one and adjust his colour to suit if you want.

I am liking how your grey armour is turning out.  It is an interesting take of the GotC.  I made my own Counts-As-Azrael for last year's ETL.  Here is a link to the finished project: LINK!  The great thing is I can also use him as a CM. What I liked about the conversion was that I could make him look the way I wanted to using the bits that I had.  

 

Your models will really come together once you add a few more colors to them, such as the white for the chapter badge on the shoulder pad.  For my Guardians, I kept the DA chapter badge since they are a DA successor.  I have done the GotC chapter badge free hand with OK results.  If you look for Worsey's GotC thread he uses printable transfer and those look pretty good.  Might be worth checking out.  What ever you decide to do, you can always work out some fluff to justify it, such as marines who prove themselves in battle can upgrade their chapter badge to the GotC badge.  Also the Deathwing Knights kit has terminator shoulder pads with an angel with crossed swords that look good on HQs.

 

Just some food for thought!  Looking forward to seeing your army progress!

Thank you both for your comments and help.

 

@Major:

Why the disdain of resin models ?

 

@Epher:

Wow that is great, no where nears that type of skill of bits in the big box yet haha!

 

I'll be out of town from today till next Tuesday y'all so stepping away from the console. Hopefully no one will blow up my home world while I'm away :)

Edited by Darkn3ssF4lls

 

@Major:

Why the disdain of resin models ?

 

Not resin in general, just that resin.

 

Lostrael had a recent experience with it here that's actually pretty typical of most users'. Despite making a very good job of it, you only have to look at the pictures to see the amount of repair and filling work that was involved - not to mention how ridiculously delicate the model is.

 

If you want to see for yourself, feel free to buy a "Finecast resin" model and see how you get on! :P

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