PVA glue and flyer bases

[OrangeBob]

I finished up a few sky hunters (but the same would be true for land speeders and such) and had a heck of a time getting PVA glue to adhere to the clear plastic base. This made the adding of sand (which is how I do my bases) almost impossible. I don't ever recall having this problem before now. I tried watering down the glue but that made it worse. 

 

What do you guys do?

[Grotsmasha]

I would tape up the vertical stalk and spray prime the base.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[JeffTibbetts]

I've never tried it but I imagine roughening it up with a bit of sand paper would do the trick. It's just because it's so glossy, I'm sure.

[Subtle Discord]

Consider also an Acrylic Adhesive instead of PVA glue; I use one called Perfect Paper Adhesive. Despite being meant for paper, I find it bonds better, spreads wonderfully, dries tighter, and once it's dry it's acrylic plastic and totally waterproof so you can slop watered-down paint on it with no worry of loosening the basing material. It also has a matt/satin finish and dries clear so it can be thinned to be used as a low-cost varnish for large scale projects, and even makes a good wash base if you want to mix your own. Paint it on cardboard, let it soak in, and let it dry and it will literally 'plasticize' the paper and make it tough and rigid; if it's heavy enough you can even sand and paint it and it will look like plastic. I started using the stuff over a decade ago and could never go back, and I'm pretty sure I'm only on my second bottle, the stuff lasts for so long. I simply love the stuff.

[OrangeBob]

I am never disappointed by the fine folks on this forum. So many good ideas, no matter how obscure the topic.

[Major_Gilbear]

I would echo the priming and roughing up of the base. Additionally, I would get a strong white PVA from a hardware store rather than use the hobby-type stuff (it's stronger and cheaper). :)

[Subtle Discord]

Too true! If you're using PVA use a good brand name, and even try a few until you get a good brand. All 'white glue' is not created equally. In the bottle they can even appear the same, and then you thin it out and you can tell some are of better quality and others are simply watered down. Avoid 'carpenter's glue' intended for wood; it really is designed to soak in to the fibers of wood to create a super strong bond, but I find it to be very brittle and it peels away from plastics very easily if/when it chips or cracks.

[Chaplain Raeven]

I went all out with a piece of sandpaper on my base, and then primed it like a normal base. 

[JeffTibbetts]

Consider also an Acrylic Adhesive instead of PVA glue; I use one called Perfect Paper Adhesive. Despite being meant for paper, I find it bonds better, spreads wonderfully, dries tighter, and once it's dry it's acrylic plastic and totally waterproof so you can slop watered-down paint on it with no worry of loosening the basing material. It also has a matt/satin finish and dries clear so it can be thinned to be used as a low-cost varnish for large scale projects, and even makes a good wash base if you want to mix your own. Paint it on cardboard, let it soak in, and let it dry and it will literally 'plasticize' the paper and make it tough and rigid; if it's heavy enough you can even sand and paint it and it will look like plastic. I started using the stuff over a decade ago and could never go back, and I'm pretty sure I'm only on my second bottle, the stuff lasts for so long. I simply love the stuff.

 

Whaaaat? What brand do you use? Looks like Weld-On is a popular one, but you said 'bottle' so I don't think that's it. I'd love to try it. Sounds like magic. 

[Subtle Discord]

As I said, the brand I've been using for ~15 years is Perfect Paper Adhesive, by a company called US Artquest. Any well stocked art store or crafting shop should carry it, or something like it, but I'm not familiar with other brands. It's intended mostly for paper crafts and collage art, but it has a ton of other uses I'm learning. I used it mostly for basing, but I have since used it in my program for many prototypes made from paper/cardboard. As I mentioned, you can water it a bit and paint it onto cardboard so it soaks into the fibers, and that lets you bend, form, and shape the card. Then, let it dry stiff and spray it with an automotive body primer scratch filler product. Sand and repeat the body primer/filler application a few times and you can achieve a result that can pass for plastic; excellent for reasonably fast/cheap prototypes made from paper that look very clean and refined, despite being only paper.

 

I'm the first to admit the acrylic adhesive is a bit expensive per bottle compared to PVA/White glue, but it lasts forever if all your doing is basing and other small projects, and it really is superior, in my opinion, on so many levels that it's worth the small premium.

[JeffTibbetts]

Somehow I missed the name. Thanks! I'm going to try this for sure.