Painting chapter / company markings with a template

[polkadragon]

As title says. I basically have very little talent for painting freeform chapter markings on my models, and also for messing about with decals.

 

One option that I'd like to explore is creating a template (basically cut out the chapter icon on a small piece of paper, put it over the shoulderpad and paint 'over' it to apply the icon to the model). Seems like that could help the terminally clumsy like myself.

 

Does anyone have some more information on this (such as dimensions?); if you know of a tutorial that would be great!

 

FYI, I'm planning to paint the Raven Guard logo this way.

 

thanks!

 

[Claws and Effect]

Also interested in something like this.

 

I'm going to be dropping some money on Forge World stuff in the next few weeks, and would like to avoid spending too much of it on shoulder pads.

[Khulu]

You should be able to print it out on some paper (you might want something a little thicker than printer paper so it's not easily torn, but too thick and it might crease too much on curves), and then just use a hobby knife to cut it out. You could even print a lot of them on one sheet to find the right size. As soon as I design a chapter logo, I will try this out.

[polkadragon]

You should be able to print it out on some paper (you might want something a little thicker than printer paper so it's not easily torn, but too thick and it might crease too much on curves), and then just use a hobby knife to cut it out. You could even print a lot of them on one sheet to find the right size. As soon as I design a chapter logo, I will try this out.

 

As a test I did something like this. I found a 'Raven Guard Logo sheef' PDF somewhere, printed that out and glued it directly on the shoulder pad.

 

The result is not too bad (shabby quality pic though)

[Space Truckin]

There was a kickstarter a while back where the guys where printing out stencils with a vinyl cutter.

At the time I was looking for something similar for the 'High Gothic' number font.  Kinda gave up on that search.

 

I think it was these guys

 

http://www.fallouthobbies.com/stencils/

[RikuEru]

The more I plan my next project, the more I think about another solution: Stamps.

 

You can easily find aaanything as a stamp on the net or sites where you can order own designs.

Or buy a DIY kit and carve one of your own.

...then stamp it on and maybe just paint a few weak spots.

[Major_Gilbear]

The real problem with this idea is the curve of the shoulder pad - it makes many solutions impractical enough that you may as well just freehand the design(s) for less overall work.

 

That said, you can either buy some brass etch from FW (link), or make your own brass etch. This is a solution that provides a little flexibility for you, and doesn't require huge investment. You can also make your own with a kit like this and some thin brass sheets.

[PeteySödes]

Out of curiosity, what problems are you having with decals? I've started using decals a lot recently since I really don't want to paint the Great Wolf (prancy wolf) 1000 times and have had pretty good results. I end up painting over or around it a lot too so its almost used as a template anyways.

 

It's B&C famous at this point but http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf is pretty much the bible for them.

[Claws and Effect]

The more I plan my next project, the more I think about another solution: Stamps.

 

You can easily find aaanything as a stamp on the net or sites where you can order own designs.

Or buy a DIY kit and carve one of your own.

...then stamp it on and maybe just paint a few weak spots.

 

 

The real problem with this idea is the curve of the shoulder pad - it makes many solutions impractical enough that you may as well just freehand the design(s) for less overall work.

 

That said, you can either buy some brass etch from FW (link), or make your own brass etch. This is a solution that provides a little flexibility for you, and doesn't require huge investment. You can also make your own with a kit like this and some thin brass sheets.

 

I had the same idea, just couldn't find anywhere local that could do a stamp that wasn't of the postal variety.

 

For coverage, just plant it at the center and roll it back and forth.

Out of curiosity, what problems are you having with decals? I've started using decals a lot recently since I really don't want to paint the Great Wolf (prancy wolf) 1000 times and have had pretty good results. I end up painting over or around it a lot too so its almost used as a template anyways.

 

It's B&C famous at this point but http://www.winterdyne.co.uk/maz/winterdyne_tutorial3.pdf is pretty much the bible for them.

 

Cost is the issue for me. Why would I want to drop better than $30 on transfers (Raven Guard are only available through Forge World) when I could just stencil instead?

[Major_Gilbear]

Well, even a some good stencils are going to cost you *some* time and *some* money.

 

As for rolling the stamp - yes you can roll it. It's a super-fiddly an unreliable way of applying markings though, and you will undoubtedly smear a fair few. Give it a try if you like! :)

[Claws and Effect]

Well, even a some good stencils are going to cost you *some* time and *some* money.

As for rolling the stamp - yes you can roll it. It's a super-fiddly an unreliable way of applying markings though, and you will undoubtedly smear a fair few. Give it a try if you like!

I probably will as soon as I can find a company that will make one for me. I fully expect to screw it up multiple times before I figure out a technique that works.

[JeffTibbetts]

Some stamps might be thin enough that you could remove the rubber bit and apply it to the inside of a concave surface, so you wouldn't need to roll it. It sounds crazy, but I bet it could be done. You'd have to be careful as you're going in, though, so as not to smear it by touching the sides before it's in place. Maybe the inside of a terminator pauldron would be big enough? I think it would have to be a bit bigger, though. 

[Major_Gilbear]

 

 

I probably will as soon as I can find a company that will make one for me.

 

A quick Google search turned up this firm based in Iowa who appear to make small custom stamps for reasonable prices.

 

As for making them curved, or what sort of finish you'll get even with practice... I remain unconvinced. I would be delighted to be proven wrong however! :)

[PeteySödes]

If you have a decent printer you can buy transfer paper on ebay for pretty cheap.

[Soldier of Dorn]

If you have a decent printer you can buy transfer paper on ebay for pretty cheap.

The problem is that the Ravens Guard insignia and unit markings are (in general) white, which most decent printers aren't capable of doing. You really need something high-end for that.

[paulJam]

Am contemplating trying the stamp idea... 3d print with concave facing then some kind of thin rubberising on the facing. Imp fist so easy black color.

[Bloody Legionnaire]

I know you said you've had issues with decal transfers but I really think you should have another go at them because they are truly easy to use. GW's transfers are not the best but there's a few things you can do to ease the process. Firstly, transfers work much better on a gloss surface as it's easier for them to move around which helps with tears. Microset and microsol also go a long way to help adhesion to the plastic part you're trying to get the transfers on. Lastly, another coat of gloss and ultimately a matte or flat varnish will help give the appearance that the decal is part of the armor.. or the "painted on" look some people go for. Hope it helps! 

[Kisada]

I second getting the FW decal sheet.  I just added in my sheet order when my group was putting in a FW order.  Only $22 and well worth it.

 

I followed decal instructions from Dr Faust and was blown away by how great they look.  Really painted on appearance.

[Mithrilforge]

I always had the dream of making a spray template and having it feasibly work(this sounds like an episode of seinfeld and the recycle bottle cash in)

as stated the curve of the pad is the key, with a paper or even dense card template you will eventually get too much over spray on the template top thus clogging your detail...

if you made a template with greenstuff using it to shape around a FW pad it could possibly work,it would take a bit of fiddly work but in the end you would have a mold/template that shoulder pads would sorta click into for their spray job and then pop out after a minute straight way and left to dry....

Mithril

++EDITED Due to JeffTibbetts Pearl of Wisdom++

[JeffTibbetts]

Actually, I think you'd want something that would allow you to remove it right after spraying. If you let it dry in the stencil you'll end up with a small dam of extra dry paint around the edge because of capillary action. If you let it dry by itself it will naturally round the edges out a little.