Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 So while painting the tacticals I'm working on I didn't like the fact I couldn't posativly paint things covered up. I had been painting the guys on a wall putty mounted container which was great, but I'm not sure how that would work for say just an arm, so paint them on the sprue ? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Honestly I hate painting on sprue too. You still end up with areas you can't paint sometimes and I booger it up when I clip and trim them. I just clip and trim everything now then position everything so I can see make sure it lines up right then pop the arms off (and head if need be) and paint them separately. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4504948 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Put a pin in the arm, and affix to a cork via the pin. Painting on the sprue makes mould lines impossible to remove, and makes clipping/cleanup of the sprue mounting points difficult. If the parts fit tightly (and many recent computer-designed GW kits do), such painting will prevent you form being able to assemble the model properly too, as the thickness of the paint prevents a good fit. Finally, it makes gluing the models trickier and less secure than it needs to be. Despite all that, some people swear by painting on the sprue. <shrugs> Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4505275 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burias-Drak'shal Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Always look on youtube for buypainted. He had good tutorials for marines. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4505426 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovidius Incertus Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 Only thing I've ever painted on the sprue is a head or two, but usually I just cut pieces such as that free and pin them to a cork. Only if the gate will be in a totally inconspicuous area (i.e. the neck) and I can easily access all mold lines would I consider it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4505475 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Think i'm going to have to learn this pinnining technique, is that something to do in addition to magnetization or en leu of? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4505996 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 You can use pinning if you have a part that will not stay in place. I would not do it in place of magnatizing though if you want to be able to swap out gear. For this though you're really just looking at using the pin the hold the model/part without actually touching it. I will usually take a small bit of coaxial cable (I work in the industry so I get all I could ever want) and use my pin vice to drill a small hole the size of the center conductor into the part I want to paint. I you can get a tight fit just pop the part off when you're done and glue to the model as usual. You can use any thin wire thoug as long as you have a small bit the same size or close enough. As stated above just put the wire into a cork or some soft easily held "handle). That's why I use coax. I can strip the plastic away from a bit of the wire, fit the wire into the model, then use the part of the cable that is not stripped as my handle. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506051 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Hmm this is interesting right now i've just been putting them together which causes me to not get as much detail as i would like. I havn't worked in the industry in a while but coaxial should be easy to come by. I will have to watch some videos on this process. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506062 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovidius Incertus Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 I just use paper clips. Drill a hole in your part (very easy for heads), put a tiny bit of bluetack on a section of paperclip and stick it in the hole. Stick the paperclip in a cork or hold it in some clamps (I use reverse action tweezers, but many people use roach clips) and paint. You can also just use a toothpick with a blob of bluetack to hold backpacks for painting. I always do this with assembled bodies, since I always pin my minis to their base. Pin glued into the foot and then stick the pin in a cork. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506072 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 This article on Hand Cannon Online is pretty comprehensive. It's for metal models (which you should always pin, regardless), but obviously applies just as well to plastic or resin figures. There's quite a few decent tutorials on that site, so if you visit it be sure to click around a bit! ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506321 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Example of what I thought one would think you would paint on sprue before you put it on the model http://i.imgur.com/dKhk4Q4m.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506466 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 No, for those I'd stick a little sprue "stick" on the back of each one for handling and painting - although you can put five of the sticks onto a further sprue strip (so it looks like a little sprue comb) for ease of handling. Then when painted, break them off and glue at the break point (inside the pad) to the model. However, I simply stick them onto the arms and then put a pin in the arm - easier that way. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506574 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 No, for those I'd stick a little sprue "stick" on the back of each one for handling and painting - although you can put five of the sticks onto a further sprue strip (so it looks like a little sprue comb) for ease of handling. Then when painted, break them off and glue at the break point (inside the pad) to the model. However, I simply stick them onto the arms and then put a pin in the arm - easier that way. Ok, just trying to figure out what the best way to store these guys in my little box is (aka if i should keep some things on sprues vs just cutting arms and putting them in one spot etc). I took the captain out and put him in there because he didn't have anything to exchange. My own thought would be to figure out a way to separate his Sword arm from the cape so that I can magnetize for a Thunder Hammer, i'm thinking i could just cut off the arm after the shoulder pad. So many options in here, think i definitely need to order a hand drill and maybe look up what i need for the pinning. So i can some how buy it without Chaos Undivided turning its eye on me [the wife] lol the expansion of my library has done that this month already . Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506619 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Maybe make cuts at the wrist for weapon swaps? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506749 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Maybe make cuts at the wrist for weapon swaps? you think that would be a good enough place for a small magnet? Thought they usually do them at the elbow joint for example. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506754 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Yeah, it's funny what 'outside the box' tools you'll need to support painting, sometimes. Really, as mentioned, it's simply easier to deal with mould lines, the sprew gates/vents, and do the assembly off the sprew, unless the gate is completely hidden in the final build. Even then it's usually easier to clip, clean up vents and mould lines, and pin/attach to an armature of some sort (from a single stick to a 'comb' of sticks for several things like heads or pads). For me personally, mould line removal is something that must happen (with just 3 good quality files it's actually quite easy except for a few rare spots) and part of my not-so-secret process to working with plastics in general is to use a plastic bristle brush (with the bristles clipped short for extra stiffness and mild abrasion - but they still do no damage to even the finest detail, it's awesome) and I aggressively brush and lightly burnish the filed/sanded areas such as cleaned moulds lines. There's just no way to do that properly, and not just knock the parts off the sprew in the process. I'm a proponent of semi-assembled painting; putting the main components together that are pose-critical and clean-assembly-critical, even if there are a few hard/impossible-to-get-to spots. Honestly, ignore the OCD voice in the back of your mind, nobody can see those spots! Especially if it's even modestly well painted. Just how far to assemble something is subjective, and you'll have to find your preferred level. I've found that any paint job improvement and/or saved time by painting on the sprew (or mostly un-assembled) is completely offset by the extra care and work needed to prepare and assemble painted parts. Because of the potential of ruining the paint job you're forced to be so much more careful, and even then accidents are bound to happen, requiring cleanup. If it's not a styrene-on-styrene join especially (read: you'll need some kind of 'super' glue) there's so much potential for that to make a mess in more ways then one. But don't underestimate solvent glues to completely muck up a paint job as well. I personally want the pose and build to be 100% clean, solid, and correct, and you can only really do that at the point where you can manhandle the parts and do cleanup with filing and the aforementioned brushwork. Note that I do realize that not everyone has interest in the same standards I aim for, so it's a very personal decision. I also recommend attaching to the base and doing basic base detail with the initial assembly as well. Again, I find any advantage to painting most legs separately is completely offset by the care needed to attach them to the base and then carefully adding the base treatment. If you do this before the prime you have a chance to clean up the base treatment work around the feet with ease, and you can make sure the model is right and properly attached, and everything is nice and clean, ready for priming. Now everything gets primed at once, and it's easier to paint the model and the base as one complete part and finish them together. I find it cleaner, faster, and less daunting; nothing worse then 'finishing' a batch of models, just to face the fact that now you have to do all the bases. *sigh* Do yourself a favor and do during the initial build. Because I'm such a stickler for a clean build, on a final semi-related note I'll add (yes, I'll stop soon, I promise. Just procrastinating on doing some other college work. ) I also use the brush technique with 'super' glue for a simple way to get cleaner builds that don't/can't use solvents. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glues like all 'super' glues are tricky to deal with and one of the big issues is when you've used a bit too much and it's oozed out of the join that's being created; trying to remove it wet can make a mess, and cutting/scraping/filing when it's dry sucks. I've found if this happens, quickly take a soft toothbrush or something very similar and very quickly (but gently) scrub at the join with the brush; the many bristles will 'pick up' a certain amount of the glue, and the rest will be quickly wiped and smeared so thin it simply vanishes. Sometimes you're left with a small trace (usually an outer ring/edge of the original glue) but it's much easier to deal with and clean up; file a bit and burnish with the 'stiff bristle brush' technique mentioned earlier. I also highly recommend a few (or several) 'dollar-store' plastic multi-compartment cases for all manner of bits. It's amazing how much more compact things get once they're off the sprew; 2-3 cases can hold a ton of bits. Ok ok, I'm done, for now... *wanders off to do more sketching and drawing* So... much... boring... drawing... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506785 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Yeah, it's funny what 'outside the box' tools you'll need to support painting, sometimes. Really, as mentioned, it's simply easier to deal with mould lines, the sprew gates/vents, and do the assembly off the sprew, unless the gate is completely hidden in the final build. Even then it's usually easier to clip, clean up vents and mould lines, and pin/attach to an armature of some sort (from a single stick to a 'comb' of sticks for several things like heads or pads). For me personally, mould line removal is something that must happen (with just 3 good quality files it's actually quite easy except for a few rare spots) and part of my not-so-secret process to working with plastics in general is to use a plastic bristle brush (with the bristles clipped short for extra stiffness and mild abrasion - but they still do no damage to even the finest detail, it's awesome) and I aggressively brush and lightly burnish the filed/sanded areas such as cleaned moulds lines. There's just no way to do that properly, and not just knock the parts off the sprew in the process. I'm a proponent of semi-assembled painting; putting the main components together that are pose-critical and clean-assembly-critical, even if there are a few hard/impossible-to-get-to spots. Honestly, ignore the OCD voice in the back of your mind, nobody can see those spots! Especially if it's even modestly well painted. Just how far to assemble something is subjective, and you'll have to find your preferred level. I've found that any paint job improvement and/or saved time by painting on the sprew (or mostly un-assembled) is completely offset by the extra care and work needed to prepare and assemble painted parts. Because of the potential of ruining the paint job you're forced to be so much more careful, and even then accidents are bound to happen, requiring cleanup. If it's not a styrene-on-styrene join especially (read: you'll need some kind of 'super' glue) there's so much potential for that to make a mess in more ways then one. But don't underestimate solvent glues to completely muck up a paint job as well. I personally want the pose and build to be 100% clean, solid, and correct, and you can only really do that at the point where you can manhandle the parts and do cleanup with filing and the aforementioned brushwork. Note that I do realize that not everyone has interest in the same standards I aim for, so it's a very personal decision. I also recommend attaching to the base and doing basic base detail with the initial assembly as well. Again, I find any advantage to painting most legs separately is completely offset by the care needed to attach them to the base and then carefully adding the base treatment. If you do this before the prime you have a chance to clean up the base treatment work around the feet with ease, and you can make sure the model is right and properly attached, and everything is nice and clean, ready for priming. Now everything gets primed at once, and it's easier to paint the model and the base as one complete part and finish them together. I find it cleaner, faster, and less daunting; nothing worse then 'finishing' a batch of models, just to face the fact that now you have to do all the bases. *sigh* Do yourself a favor and do during the initial build. Because I'm such a stickler for a clean build, on a final semi-related note I'll add (yes, I'll stop soon, I promise. Just procrastinating on doing some other college work. ) I also use the brush technique with 'super' glue for a simple way to get cleaner builds that don't/can't use solvents. Cyanoacrylate (CA) glues like all 'super' glues are tricky to deal with and one of the big issues is when you've used a bit too much and it's oozed out of the join that's being created; trying to remove it wet can make a mess, and cutting/scraping/filing when it's dry sucks. I've found if this happens, quickly take a soft toothbrush or something very similar and very quickly (but gently) scrub at the join with the brush; the many bristles will 'pick up' a certain amount of the glue, and the rest will be quickly wiped and smeared so thin it simply vanishes. Sometimes you're left with a small trace (usually an outer ring/edge of the original glue) but it's much easier to deal with and clean up; file a bit and burnish with the 'stiff bristle brush' technique mentioned earlier. I also highly recommend a few (or several) 'dollar-store' plastic multi-compartment cases for all manner of bits. It's amazing how much more compact things get once they're off the sprew; 2-3 cases can hold a ton of bits. Ok ok, I'm done, for now... *wanders off to do more sketching and drawing* So... much... boring... drawing... Haha thank you, the line is always my ocd nature so far. Example theres a line down the plasma gun and when i took it off i swear i messed up the plasma part :( Or on the sergeant i think it was there was a line on the backpack that no one could see but i tried it get it and got a piece of one of the little notches on the side of the backpack :( Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506790 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 If you're using a razor to the 'shave' mould lines, you need to take extra care. It's not my preferred method, personally. I'll admit it's something I take for granted that I know how to handle most tricky mould lines (like corrugated hoses and plasma 'grills') but that's come with years of practice and the ruin of more then a few bits. The only way to get mould lines out of 'grills' is to file with the direction of the grill. I know this hobby can take a toll on your wallet, just what you invest in and how quickly will depend on many factors, but a Pin Drill (Pin Vice) and 2-3 good quality Files (like those made by Grobet) and a few other key tools are all but essential kit that will be used on many/most/all of your models. Because of moulds lines, a file touches every model I assemble. Period. If I could only have one file, it would be a #4 Grobet Half Round; this file will handle 95% of jobs well, and 90% of jobs perfectly. The 'knife' edge of the file is perfect for grills and corrugated hose, it has a nice flat side for flat jobs, a nice round side for curved jobs, and it tapers to a wonderful point. I would add a #4 Round, and a #2 Equalling (Rectangle), for the other 5-10% of the time when those files are really useful. 5.5" or 6.25" doesn't really matter with (I use 6.25") for our hobby needs. For a $20-30 + Shipping investment, these files will last for literally decades and make mould removal much more tolerable on every model you build. Oh, and a Pin Vice; get a Pin Vice if you don't already have one. There are times when there is just no other way to properly assemble something and many other times when it's very useful (Read: holes for magnets). Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506828 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 Drill your barrels. Seriously once you get a pin vise it's one of the simplest things, but looks so good. I picked up one from a local hobby store (like Michaels or hobby lobby etc...) for about $10 with a nice selection of bits and I got another bit kit from Lowes or Home Depot for about another $10. These have served me well for a few years now with no issues. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4506938 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darkn3ssF4lls Posted September 19, 2016 Author Share Posted September 19, 2016 A pin vice http://ak-i21.geccdn.net/site/images/large/LSA_681-51136.jpg Some files A a drill to make wholes for the magnets http://www.tooldiscounter.com/images/productimages/TTN11003.jpg some drill bits do something like this? Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4507706 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Okay, pin vice drill is what you need. Should cost like $5-7: http://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/images/expo_tools/750-10.jpg Then buy ground drill bits (ebay is excellent for this) with a carbide or carborundum coating (should cost about $2-4 for a pack of ten all the same size). Files... I would get a couple of decent ones, but don't worry about getting super-duper ones right now. You are mostly filing plastic afterall. A tapered half-round and a flat one will do you for 95% of your jobs. Should cost about $2-3 each: http://www.regal.co.nz/pr_images/gr_picture_816_1.jpg I already gave you my thoughts of drilling/pinning in the magnetising topic I think (you have so many topics, it's hard to keep track!), but a potted summary of things to keep in mind when buying: 1) Buy a hand pin vice drill (sometimes a pin vise drill) with a little "rest" at the end like the one I've shown above. Your hands will thank me for it! These normally come with two double-ended collets for holding different-sized drill bits. One is in the end where the bit goes (duh!), and the other is usually stored inside the handle. 2) Buy some brass rod for your pinning efforts. It's a little ductile, won't rust, won't blunt your clippers, and can be filed without too much difficulty. 3) Buy "ground" drill bits - not "twisted" or"rolled". The cost more, but are properly-made and won't get stuck and break as easily. This is because the spiral cutting faces are machined onto the bit, rather than the bit being stamped and then twisted or rolled to get the spiral. The swarf (the stuff you drill out of the whole) gets stuck very easily in small bits, and the twisted/rolled bits aren't even enough to let it come out smoothly. Once you know what size brass rod you have, buy drill bits to suit that are 0.25-0.50mm larger to give the rod and glue some clearance in the hole. Avoid a multi-pack of bits, because you will never use at least 2/3s of the sizes! 4) I would suggest getting the files from your local hardware store so that you can see them before you buy them. These are all about the size and length of a pencil. A tapered half round shape and a regular flat shape (sometimes called an "equalling" or "Pillar" file) should keep you going for a while. 5) Corks for holding your pinned parts during painting. They are cheap, and can be used for terrain when they get old! Alternatively, you can use hemostats like I do, or more pin vices, or whatever you feel is suitable really. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4507803 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ovidius Incertus Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 I guess I'm the guy who doesn't use files. I have a set, but almost never use them. My knife and some sandpaper are usually all I need for mold lines. Maybe I'll take them out of the drawer and force myself to use them. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4507850 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Well, for plastics, I find files are most useful for cleaning the sprue-mounting numbs off the models. And for older plastic kits in general. And for conversions. For new kits, the mould lines are small, and the knife/sandpaper work better for those. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4508004 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soldier of Dorn Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 Read this (I know Subtle has already commented and made some suggestions, but this is the absolute best guide on tools this side of the Mississippi Delta.) On topic, I have nothing to add. I paint everything fully assembled (even bolters! Heresy! :P) I've found that if I try to paint prior to assembling everything, when I glue I'll inevitably manage to :cuss up the paint job somehow. Every. Single. Time. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4508456 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 On topic, I have nothing to add. I paint everything fully assembled (even bolters! Heresy! ) I've found that if I try to paint prior to assembling everything, when I glue I'll inevitably manage to up the paint job somehow. Every. Single. Time. You can always partially paint, finish assembly, and then paint final details on. This has a few advantages: 1) You don't miss any hard-to reach spots 2) Any areas spoiled by the assembly stage can be easily corrected in the final details painting stage 3) You don't waste time painting details that cannot be seen It's actually a great compromise! :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/325939-good-tutorial-for-painting-on-sprue/#findComment-4508624 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.